Croque-monsieur with ham from Desnoyer-Poujauran butcher, truffle salt and Comté cheese at Café Trama (83 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris; Love it! (be sure to ask for extra crispy) -
France Impressions is a blog about my travels throughout France. Travel is about embarking on journeys, discovering new places, its people, learning from others and in particular, learning about oneself. I believe travel is an art and I like to craft trips and tours around your personality, interests, desires and dreams. I undertake to open for you 'doors that are normally closed" thereby ensuring you gain access to exclusive experiences while introducing you to extraordinary personalities.
Friday, August 29, 2014
Labor Day is celebrated in France in May...
People in many areas give bouquets of lily-of-the-valley or dog rose flowers to loved ones. This custom is particularly common in the area around Paris known as Île-de-France. Families with children in country areas get up early in the morning and go into the woods to pick the flowers. Individuals and labor organizations in urban areas sell bouquets of lily of the valley on the street on May 1. There are special regulations that allow people and some organizations to sell these flowers on May 1 without paying tax or complying with retail regulations.
Trade unions and other organizations organize parades and demonstrations to campaign for workers rights on May 1. People may also use these events to campaign for human rights in general, to demonstrate against racism or highlight current social issues.
May 1 is a public holiday. Post offices, banks, stores and other businesses are closed. Outside of tourist areas, restaurants and cafes may be closed. However, some stores in Paris, as well as at airports and railway stations and along major highways, may be open. Public transport service schedules vary depending on where one lives and intends to travel. Parades and demonstrations may cause disruption to traffic in the centers of large cities, particularly Paris.
King Charles IX of France was presented with lily of the valley flowers on May 1, 1561. He liked the gift and decided to present lily of the valley flowers to the ladies of his court each year on May 1. Around 1900, men started to present a bouquet of lily of the valley flowers to women to express their affection. The flowers are a more general token of appreciation between close friends and family members these days.
King Charles IX of France was presented with lily of the valley flowers on May 1, 1561. He liked the gift and decided to present lily of the valley flowers to the ladies of his court each year on May 1. Around 1900, men started to present a bouquet of lily of the valley flowers to women to express their affection. The flowers are a more general token of appreciation between close friends and family members these days.
Thursday, August 28, 2014
Wednesday, August 27, 2014
Hidden Paris - Galerie Vivienne
The gallery was built in 1823 by Marchoux, President of the Chamber of Notaries, at the location of the Vanel de Serrant hotel and the Petits Peres passage. It was based on plans drawn up by the architect Francois Jean Delannoy. Inaugurated in 1826 under the name Marchoux, but soon renamed Vivienne, the gallery took advantage of its unique location. It attracted many visitors with its tailor shops, cobblers, wine shop, restaurant, Jusseaume bookstore, draper, confectioner, print-seller and so on.
Located between the Palais Royal, the stock exchange and the Grands Boulevards, the passage enjoyed considerable success until the end of the Second Empire.
Its still there and now houses boutique shops and a cafe and restaurant.
Its still there and now houses boutique shops and a cafe and restaurant.
Monday, August 25, 2014
Paris restaurant - touristy, VERY ,of course, ruinous to your pocket book - for sure, you'll have to take out a second mortgage, but its one of the last dining icons left in Paris these days, in fact in all of France..
London food critic, Tim Hayward travels to Paris to visit, Tour d'Argent; the oldest restaurant in Paris, to fulfill a long-held ambition to taste the restaurants famous,(numbered), press duck.
Phillipe Noiret and Robert Morley at Tour d'Argent in a scene from 'Who's Killing The Greatest Chefs in Europe'
Phillipe Noiret and Robert Morley at Tour d'Argent in a scene from 'Who's Killing The Greatest Chefs in Europe'
Friday, August 22, 2014
The Romance of French Cowboys in the wild west of Provence
The Camargue is like its own little country. Once you're a few minutes south of Arles, you enter the atmosphere of the area, with its series of long, level roads criss-crossing the marshes and farmlands. Eagles, hawks and harriers soar in the blue skies and muskrats swim along the little canals, often making unsuccessful attempts to cross the roads. Black bulls and white horses graze in the fields, and lines of horseback riders file into the brush to observe the nature first-hand. Cyclists peddle against the winds, along the roads or off on lanes forbidden to motor vehicles.
This is a full day experiencing the best of the Camargue, the region known as the Wild West of Provence. You will start with a visit of Arles Roman monuments, others from the Romanesque period, Vincent Van Gogh’s presence, memories of Frederic Mistral... This two-hour tour, on foot, will take you through the historic center of Arles to discover the main monuments of the city, experience its picturesque streets, savor its traditions... You’ll have a two-hour horseback ride or jeep tours where you’ll see the famous white horses and black bulls. Then it will followed by a gourmet picnic served with wine! After lunch, you’ll get to experience a scenic drive where, you’ll get to see plenty of pink flamingoes. The Camargue is a unique area lying between two arms of the Rhône river. Its vast expanses give it a special atmosphere to be found nowhere else. It is paradise for migratory birds, a nesting area for flamingoes, and home to bulls and horses.
We are able to put together a full day program for you to visit this somewhat unknown area of France. Here is what you day could look like:
This is a full day experiencing the best of the Camargue, the region known as the Wild West of Provence. You will start with a visit of Arles Roman monuments, others from the Romanesque period, Vincent Van Gogh’s presence, memories of Frederic Mistral... This two-hour tour, on foot, will take you through the historic center of Arles to discover the main monuments of the city, experience its picturesque streets, savor its traditions... You’ll have a two-hour horseback ride or jeep tours where you’ll see the famous white horses and black bulls. Then it will followed by a gourmet picnic served with wine! After lunch, you’ll get to experience a scenic drive where, you’ll get to see plenty of pink flamingoes. The Camargue is a unique area lying between two arms of the Rhône river. Its vast expanses give it a special atmosphere to be found nowhere else. It is paradise for migratory birds, a nesting area for flamingoes, and home to bulls and horses.
Wednesday, August 20, 2014
Paris Fashion in the 1950's - A new retropective Show in Paris at the Palais Galliera
The 1950s were a decisive period for French haute couture, which had suffered badly in the wake of the 1929 stock market crash and the war and was now reborn and made eternal. The list of names says it all: Jacques Heim, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, Jacques Fath making up the old guard; followed by newcomers Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, Jacques Griffe, Hubert de Givenchy and Pierre Cardin. Paradoxically the dominance of French fashion hinged not only on the prestige of names that spelled luxury, elegance and originality, but also on the profession's willingness to make the revolutionary move into ready-to-wear. In 1954 the 'Couturiers Associés' – Jacques Fath, Robert Piguet, Paquin, Carven, Jean Dessès – founded the first haute couture ready-to-wear licensing company .
Drawn from the Palais Galliera collection and sporting the labels of the most famous couturiers as well as others now forgotten (Jean Dessès, Madeleine Vramant, Lola Prusac), the remarkable pieces making up this exhibition – some 100 models and accessories – retrace the evolution of the female form through the decade 1947–1957: from the birth of the New Look to the death of Christian Dior and the advent of Yves Saint Laurent.
PALAIS GALLIERA, CITY OF PARIS FASHION MUSEUM 10 avenue Pierre Ier de Serbie, 75116 Paris
PALAIS GALLIERA, CITY OF PARIS FASHION MUSEUM 10 avenue Pierre Ier de Serbie, 75116 Paris
Monday, August 18, 2014
* Paris by Twizy * Are you brave enough, I ask?
If you have been to Paris in the last several months, you may seen the little electric two-passenger cars zooming around Paris? The Twizy is almost like riding a motorcycle with four wheels and a bit of extra protection around you. But not much more! But they’re small and easy to park (sometimes right up on the sidewalk), and now you can rent them from the foot of the Eiffel Tower with pre-loaded GPS tours of Paris to guide you. TwizTours cost €29 for one hour per person (two people minimum) up to €75 per person to have a human guide in a second car leading the way. Note that you need a driver’s license valid for at least three years and a lot of courage!!
Friday, August 15, 2014
What is it, about France? Its about pleasure -that's it in a nutshell
For me, there are two pleasures about France - the art of living and the enjoyment of fine dining.
To me, there is no geography or history, without the appreciation of food, without sensual curiosity. To really get to know a country you need to taste it, smell it, touch it, listen to it, see it. In France, its through the body that you reach understanding - through happiness. Since the dawn of time people have discovered that one of the best ways to achieve happiness is through the understanding of pleasure - enjoying good food and wine is an essential part of this undertaking for anyone wanting to really know this most amazing country.
So for those of you that are fussy about 'I can't have this and that' or I don't
like this and that, have restrictive food allergies or have succumbed to the present, 'I need gluten free food 'silliness, is all I can say is that I feel saddened for you, for you'll never really be able to enjoy France, if you can't enjoy and partake in all their food and lifestyle pleasures.
To me, there is no geography or history, without the appreciation of food, without sensual curiosity. To really get to know a country you need to taste it, smell it, touch it, listen to it, see it. In France, its through the body that you reach understanding - through happiness. Since the dawn of time people have discovered that one of the best ways to achieve happiness is through the understanding of pleasure - enjoying good food and wine is an essential part of this undertaking for anyone wanting to really know this most amazing country.
So for those of you that are fussy about 'I can't have this and that' or I don't
like this and that, have restrictive food allergies or have succumbed to the present, 'I need gluten free food 'silliness, is all I can say is that I feel saddened for you, for you'll never really be able to enjoy France, if you can't enjoy and partake in all their food and lifestyle pleasures.
Tuesday, August 12, 2014
Sorry Italy - but you are not the best! Of Course, I have always known that...
France stayed ahead of the pack and remained the world’s most visited country in the world, with 84.7 million foreign visitors in 2013, according to a study published Monday.
The lure of the country’ s famous monuments, picturesque landscapes, rich history and legendary cuisine and wines ensured that France kept its top spot well ahead of the United States and Spain, which received 69.8 and 60.7 million foreign tourists each.
Thursday, August 7, 2014
France's Hidden seaside resorts - One of many...............
At the end of the Corniche des Maures ( a large mountain chain that fronts the sea near St Tropez), the area called Cavalaire ( Ex-president of France Nicholas Sarkozy has his villa nearby) is quite close to, and quite different from St Tropez. The resorts share the same sun, sea and insouciance, but there floats over Cavalaire no air of billionaire exclusivity. Normal people are made to feel welcome, rather than dammed lucky to be allowed in. Cavalaire brandishes its family welcome label with abandon.
Granted, there is minimal quaintness. If Cavalaire ( population 7000) was once a fishing village, its now a mainly post-war creation of apartments ( not has ugly as Nice and Cannes) and modern-ish streets. But palms, pines and sea attenuate the effect, there's holiday-time gaiety, the surroundings are soul-stirring-and appreciation of quaint is, anyway, a sign of age (I am afraid to say so) Youngsters don't care a fig for old towns and 14th-century chapels. They want activity-and Cavalaire has it.
The best hotel here is the Relais/Chateaux hotel ( on a private beach) Le Club de Cavaliere & Spa.
http://www.clubdecavaliere.com/uk/hotel-luxe-lavandou-site-officiel.php
Granted, there is minimal quaintness. If Cavalaire ( population 7000) was once a fishing village, its now a mainly post-war creation of apartments ( not has ugly as Nice and Cannes) and modern-ish streets. But palms, pines and sea attenuate the effect, there's holiday-time gaiety, the surroundings are soul-stirring-and appreciation of quaint is, anyway, a sign of age (I am afraid to say so) Youngsters don't care a fig for old towns and 14th-century chapels. They want activity-and Cavalaire has it.
The best hotel here is the Relais/Chateaux hotel ( on a private beach) Le Club de Cavaliere & Spa.
http://www.clubdecavaliere.com/uk/hotel-luxe-lavandou-site-officiel.php
Wednesday, August 6, 2014
Maurice Chevalier - The Face of France
In 1958, I was 15 years old, I went to see the MGM musical film, "Gigi" and like everyone else that year was captivated by the film and its music.
What really captivated me was the performance of Maurice Chevalier. He was sophisticated, well dressed, had a smile and personality that filled the the theatre from wall to wall. I said to myself, this is who I wanted to be and all my life I have strived to fulfill that promise to myself and now at age 70 + I can honestly say, its is truly the best of times for me and I can really say and understand "I'm, Glad I'm Not Young Anymore".
What really captivated me was the performance of Maurice Chevalier. He was sophisticated, well dressed, had a smile and personality that filled the the theatre from wall to wall. I said to myself, this is who I wanted to be and all my life I have strived to fulfill that promise to myself and now at age 70 + I can honestly say, its is truly the best of times for me and I can really say and understand "I'm, Glad I'm Not Young Anymore".
Tuesday, August 5, 2014
Bobo Palate, New Trends in Parisian Cuisine with Context Walking tour - Tours for the Intellectually Curious
One of the best touring companies in Paris and other parts of Europe, is Context Tours.
http://www.contexttravel.com/
The group size is never more than 6 and the tours are lead by PHDs and master scholars who can also excite your curiosity with passionate narration and guidance.
They just don't do the 'run of the mill' type of tours, but a varied and interesting look at the city of Paris.
Here is just an example of one of their tours in Paris concerning new trends in Parisian cuisine.
The quiet side streets of the Haut Marais district, as the upper part of the 3rd arrondissement is known, form the backdrop of one of Paris' most exciting gastronomic districts. A mixture of old fashioned markets and wine bars, along with cutting edge boutiques, hip cafes, and innovative food shops, make the Haut Marais emblematic of what's being called the Parisian Bobo, short for bourgeois-bohemian. During this 2.5-hour walk in the company of a local chef, sommelier or food writer, we will explore the culinary lifestyle of the Bobo and discuss how gastronomic traditions are evolving in Paris today. As we work our way through the area, we will discover it through the perspective of a Bobo. Living in small apartments on these narrow winding streets and with their busy lifestyles, it’s difficult to cook; therefore, they rely more on external shops, cafés and restaurants than inhabitants of other districts. The bourgeois in them wants the highest quality, while the bohemian craves contemporary flair and international originality. Stopping in at “their” shops we will in essence be learning about and gathering the items for a Bobo apéro, or small bites pre-dinner snacks. We may stop in an excellent modern purveyor to pick up some wild salmon or top grade Iberian ham. We will visit one of the hottest chocolate makers to select jewel-like bonbons. We may stop by the city's leading spice and oil boutiques where the city's top chefs acquire their saffron or vanilla. We will also visit the oldest covered market in Paris, Le Marché des Enfants Rouges, established by royal decree in 1615, now mostly filled with trendy ethnic food or organic stands, which will help us understand how traditions endure, though shift and still remain relevant today. We will also see some of the newer restaurants and shops, such as Candelaria with its Mexican tacos and hidden cocktail bar, Nanashi with its modern bento boxes or Popelini with its reinvention of Parisian choux pastry. We will sit down at the end over a glass of wine to sample our wares, coming full circle in our discovery of the Parisian Bobo.
http://www.contexttravel.com/
The group size is never more than 6 and the tours are lead by PHDs and master scholars who can also excite your curiosity with passionate narration and guidance.
They just don't do the 'run of the mill' type of tours, but a varied and interesting look at the city of Paris.
Here is just an example of one of their tours in Paris concerning new trends in Parisian cuisine.
The quiet side streets of the Haut Marais district, as the upper part of the 3rd arrondissement is known, form the backdrop of one of Paris' most exciting gastronomic districts. A mixture of old fashioned markets and wine bars, along with cutting edge boutiques, hip cafes, and innovative food shops, make the Haut Marais emblematic of what's being called the Parisian Bobo, short for bourgeois-bohemian. During this 2.5-hour walk in the company of a local chef, sommelier or food writer, we will explore the culinary lifestyle of the Bobo and discuss how gastronomic traditions are evolving in Paris today. As we work our way through the area, we will discover it through the perspective of a Bobo. Living in small apartments on these narrow winding streets and with their busy lifestyles, it’s difficult to cook; therefore, they rely more on external shops, cafés and restaurants than inhabitants of other districts. The bourgeois in them wants the highest quality, while the bohemian craves contemporary flair and international originality. Stopping in at “their” shops we will in essence be learning about and gathering the items for a Bobo apéro, or small bites pre-dinner snacks. We may stop in an excellent modern purveyor to pick up some wild salmon or top grade Iberian ham. We will visit one of the hottest chocolate makers to select jewel-like bonbons. We may stop by the city's leading spice and oil boutiques where the city's top chefs acquire their saffron or vanilla. We will also visit the oldest covered market in Paris, Le Marché des Enfants Rouges, established by royal decree in 1615, now mostly filled with trendy ethnic food or organic stands, which will help us understand how traditions endure, though shift and still remain relevant today. We will also see some of the newer restaurants and shops, such as Candelaria with its Mexican tacos and hidden cocktail bar, Nanashi with its modern bento boxes or Popelini with its reinvention of Parisian choux pastry. We will sit down at the end over a glass of wine to sample our wares, coming full circle in our discovery of the Parisian Bobo.
Monday, August 4, 2014
October 214 - A brand new Museum - Louis Vuitton
The Foundation Louis Vuitton will open its doors to the public on Monday, 27 October 2014. The building, designed by architect Frank Gehry, will become a new location in Paris for contemporary French and international artistic creation.
The Foundation Louis Vuitton’s mission is to encourage and promote contemporary artistic creation both in France and internationally. The collections and programmes will continue the tradition of artistic and creative movements of the 20th and 21st centuries.
The building for the Foundation Louis Vuitton includes exhibition galleries dedicated to the permanent collection, temporary exhibitions and artists’ commissions. It is completed by a flexible auditorium for the presentation of multi-disciplinary performances and events.
Its terraces offer unique panoramic views of Paris and the lush greenery of the Jardin d’Acclimatation, the inspiration for Frank Gehry’s architecture of glass and transparency.
August 4th, 1914 - World War 1 begins and decimates the youth of the world............
and...Oh! How this songs sentiment changed quickly as thousands of English youth perished at an astonishing rate...
Friday, August 1, 2014
French TV news says that Tipping in Paris cafes is dying out...............
Leaving a tip has long been "the done thing" in restaurants and bars. But today it's a dying tradition at the terrace cafés of Paris.
Says a young French waitress, "I've just started my shift but I don't think I'll get more than 10 or 15 euros in tips. It's going down. It seems French café-goers are becoming more and more stingy." A male customer says, "I'll tip when I'm happy with the service. But if I'm not satisfied I won't leave anything." A recent study notes 16 percent of the French public never give a cent more than they have to. That's more than double the number last year, when only seven percent admitted to never leaving a tip. Relying ever more on credit cards, people tend to have less small change in their pockets. And that's just one reason for penny-pinching. "Everyone, or almost everyone is paid a salary. So they're asking themselves, 'Why should I tip a waiter, valet or hairdresser when no one tips me for my work? I just have a salary and that's it," says a second café customer. Tourists are commonly more generous, especially Americans, who are used to waiters relying on tips to make a living, which is not the case in France. Sixty percent of Americans say they dip into their purses to leave a little extra every time they dine out. H
Howards Note: I still tip a little in cafes and always will. The waitstaff works hard in my opinion
Says a young French waitress, "I've just started my shift but I don't think I'll get more than 10 or 15 euros in tips. It's going down. It seems French café-goers are becoming more and more stingy." A male customer says, "I'll tip when I'm happy with the service. But if I'm not satisfied I won't leave anything." A recent study notes 16 percent of the French public never give a cent more than they have to. That's more than double the number last year, when only seven percent admitted to never leaving a tip. Relying ever more on credit cards, people tend to have less small change in their pockets. And that's just one reason for penny-pinching. "Everyone, or almost everyone is paid a salary. So they're asking themselves, 'Why should I tip a waiter, valet or hairdresser when no one tips me for my work? I just have a salary and that's it," says a second café customer. Tourists are commonly more generous, especially Americans, who are used to waiters relying on tips to make a living, which is not the case in France. Sixty percent of Americans say they dip into their purses to leave a little extra every time they dine out. H
Howards Note: I still tip a little in cafes and always will. The waitstaff works hard in my opinion