The French Alps - Courchevel 2014

I was honored to be invited with a few other world-wide travel specialist's, a few weeks ago to experience the lush, rich playground of the worlds ski jet setters ( and common folk people like myself) of the Courchevel ski area ( only open 3 months of the year!) 
Its fabulous beyond belief( and believe me, I've seen a lot in my 60 plus years of travel.) Here is a video that they made for us, I hope it will give you an idea as to what it's about and yes, people did dance on the tables at dinner, it something that goes on all the time here. . The vacationers who have homes here and use the hotels are mainly made up of Russians, Middle Easterners, French and Brazilians. But they are looking to have more Americans come here too. 
It's truly a magical place, like Aspen on Steroids! The homes and condos here make Beverly Hills and Bel Air 'look like shacks!' 
The skiing is phenomenal , the ski area covers 3 valleys and thus no lines and you can ski for a week or more and  never do the same run. 
So next time, if you have a winter holiday, how about France - Paris and then skiing in Courchevel? 

Oyster outing in Brittany - Its like kissing the sea on the lips!

Brittany - next time you visit the alignments of standing stones at Carnac (Near Vannes) , some 3,000 stones across 100 acres, all stood up around 6,000 years ago; in my opinion, its just OK, but what is really wonderful is then after seeing Carnac then I suggest hop over to Baden and take an oyster outing ( in the Gulf of Morbihan) with Ivan Selo, who is unarguable the French oyster farmer of 2014.

The video is in French, but you'll get the idea.

Howard's Pick for the French Region of the Year

The winner is Beaujolais on the grounds, first, that it is the most famous unknown region of France – famous for the wine, unknown because nobody goes there, or can place it on a map. (Try north of Lyon, south of Burgundy.) Second, it is replete with hills and villages that, were they in Provence or Tuscany, would be standing-room only. But they aren’t, so they aren’t. In gorgeous goldstone spots such as Ternand and Bois d’Oingt, one doesn’t meet tourists or, apparently, anyone who has ever met a tourist. Third, and vitally, it is the only major wine region that embraces the stuff with joy and conviviality, rather than with the insane pretense that wine is a branch of high culture.

and of course,. the only place top stay is the magnificent Chateau de Bagnols!!!
ww.chateaudebagnols.com/home.php

Stephane Grappelli - A France national treasure

Paris - The Grand Palais ( Museum) turned into an Ice Skate rink during December

On my way to France for the Holidays

Dear Reader
I am off for Christmas Holidays to France and will return early January.
I am off to Paris - then Bordeaux - then Lyon - then skiing in the French Alps and back to Paris again.
Have a happy holiday

In Paris, when you can't afford a Grand Dame hotel at 1000 Euros a night, then...........

Then, I suggest a charming great 4 star hotel, in the best section of Paris, the legendary, Left Bank, the 6th Arrondissement,The lovely Le Six hotel. 

It offers 41 bedrooms, including six junior suites. Calm and spacious, all the rooms combine air conditioning, insulation and well though-out acoustics, deluxe comfort, harmony of tones, soft lighting, double glazing, parquet floor, light oak furnishings, a leather-edged desk, reading lights, bathrooms with daylight in all suites and certain deluxe rooms, flat screen satellite television, courtesy tray, free wifi Internet access , direct line, minibar, safe, magnifying mirror, towel warmer, iron and ironing table. In addition, every other floor has a balcony, while the three suites on the sixth and last floors offer exposed beams and a breathtaking view over the rooftops of Paris and the Sacré Cœur. 
The lovely and charming, GM , Anne LUDMANN-LEVIOUX will take great care of you. The Metro is only 1/2 block away ( its a 10 minute straight walk to the Blvd St. Germain) and although the hotel may not have a restaurant but the area hosts many wonderful places to eat. My favorite is right across the street, the Bistro Chez Marcel.

I wish I was a kid AGAIN...especially when I see children's stores in Paris

Coloring Paris 
If you have kids (or artistic streak), check out the giant coloring posters of Paris in different sizes up to 1m80 wide ( about 6 ft), and dining place mats of Paris (and other cities). There’s even a poster with a P’tit Vélib’ theme for little cyclists. 
They’re all designed and made with eco-friendly materials in France by OMY (27 rue Milton, 9th), but you can also find them in stores throughout the city such as Merci (111 blvd Beaumarchais, 3rd).

http://www.omy.fr/shop/fr/

Eurostar is 20 years old today

Can you believe it?
Starting in May of 2015, you'll be able to have breakfast in London and dinner in Provence, with a new train running London to Marseilles. It will bypass Paris and go right on to the South of France.
Also Amsterdam service from London will begin again in late 2015.

Happy Birthday - Eurostar!!

Northern Brittany - A new star in 2015 is soon to appear......

For those of you who read my blog, you'll know that I love all of France, but truth be told, Brittany is my favorite of all the areas in this wonderful country. Brittany has so much to offer – stunning natural environments, a fantastic coastline and vibrant traditional French culture. It is quite simply the perfect place to relax and recharge. 
 The area of St Malo/Dinard was made popular by British and American visitors in the 19th century, Dinard was France’s top summer resort until the French Riviera took over in the 1930s. The former fishing village attracted wealthy celebrities and businessmen as well as European royalty, some of whom built fabulous villas; there are now more than 400 listed buildings in the town. In later years it became out of fashion and there were not many good hotels, to be honest, but next year 2015, I think the area is going to have a resurgence with a brand new 5 star WOW hotel called Castlebrac. So check back next year to keep a eye on what will be the new star in this part of Brittany.
http://castelbrac.com/#2

The Dining Room; Domaine de la Baume, Tourtour - One of the best hotel restaurants in the world

The London Telegraph has announced the winners of its '101 Best Hotel Restaurants' survey. The results are drawn following consultations with restaurant critics, food journalists and experienced bloggers, alongside other industry experts. Here we look at the top performers in pictures 
 In Provence, Domaine de la Baume's tranquil restaurant serves simple but carefully prepared local dishes such as pigeon with baby artichokes and sundried tomatoes, or mougat parfait and lemons from Menton

Remembrance - Both in France and England Nov 11 - 11th day 11th Hour World War 1 ends............

"IF I should die, think only this of me; That there's some corner of a foreign field That is for ever England. There shall be In that rich earth a richer dust concealed; A dust whom England bore, shaped, made aware, Gave, once, her flowers to love, her ways to roam, A body of England's breathing English air, Washed by the rivers, blest by suns of home. And think, this heart, all evil shed away, A pulse in the eternal mind, no less 10 Gives somewhere back the thoughts by England given; Her sights and sounds; dreams happy as her day; And laughter, learnt of friends; and gentleness, In hearts at peace, under an English heaven."

~ Rupert Brook

Forget Xbox and I pads, remember collecting toy soldiers? Here are 2 of the best places in Paris

This is really a magic world ... I still remember when, as a child I was able to isolate myself, playing in the "endless fields" and "landscapes" formed by floors and carpets ... and ignore the calls of my mother and "nanny". These two marvelous shops are well known and they are part of the never ending "Charme" of Paris.

Off to France in a week or two for a month and remembeing one of Frances greatest treasures..

France has given me many treasures and one I cherish is the music and performance of Stephane Grappelli. 
He will forever along with  many other artists I cherish, will always be for me the face of France. 

Brittany (my favorite area of France) - One of my favorite hidden villages - DINAN on the river Rance

Dinan is without doubt one of the most attractive and best preserved small towns in Brittany. With its 1.8 mile -long ramparts, half-timbered houses, attractive port and cobbled streets filled with art galleries and craft shops, it’s worth a day of anyone’s time. The most attractive part of Dinan is arguably its port, which is where you’ll arrive if you take a boat from Dinard or St Malo. The quay is lined with old stone houses, many of which are now waterside restaurants and chandlers’ shops. Take a walk along the old towpath or cross the 15th-century stone bridge to Lanvallay to find out about life on the river in the Maison de la Rance discovery center.

Christmas is the best in Paris - The window decorations are the best in the world and this year is no exception

For the first time in the world, Galeries Lafayette is breaking new ground with its upside down Christmas tree! The department store’s iconic 90 feet tall Christmas tree, now standing on its head, will play host to a wonderful “sound and light” show every hour, that you are invited to attend!

I'll be there in December and will forward pictures back

A new Paris Boutique chain part of the Intercontinental chain - moderately priced next to the Opera - The Indigo Brand

Located in a charming and quiet pedestrian street just next to Place de l’Opéra yet in a thriving business area, this elegantly fully renovated 4-star boutique Hotel Indigo Paris - Opera is a modern interpretation of the authentic Parisian style. It offers 57 vibrant and very spacious guestrooms, including 12 suites and duplex apartments, some overlooking the Eiffel Tower. They all meet the highest standards, providing superior luxury and exclusive services. Awaken each day feeling revitalized with the comfortable mattress and fluffy pillows dedicated to delight the senses of every staying guest. The Hotel Indigo Paris - Opera offers an appealing and unique “Tartares” restaurant  (all tartar foods) and wine bar concept satisfying every whim and offering exclusive food and wine pairing. On a sunny day why not enjoy our delicious food and a glass of wine on the terrace? Located in walking distance from the Olympia Music Hall, Madeleine Church and the Opera Garnier House, close to the Louvre Museum and the Tuileries Garden, luxury fashion boutiques, art galleries, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps department stores all dot this area which is among the best places to stay to explore the City of Light.

Paris certainly for hotels these days can give one 'sticker shock' and now here is an alternative to stay in a great area and yet in a wonderful value priced hotel. 

Each rooms has an arts theme.................................

Hot Dog à la Parisienne! - I love all kinds of hot dogs..............

It's so Much More than American Hot Dogs! Sausage...mmmmm... Special Mustard - Maille! 

Melted Cheese on Top Baked in the Oven til Crispy on a

Golden Delicious Baguette!

My France travel thoughts for the day......................

"Where others see a glimpse of heaven in the soaring arches of a great French cathedral or hear the angelic in a soprano's coloratura at the Paris Opera, I smell paradise in the passing of a bistro or brasserie."

My remedy for overwhelming museum visits - just slow down! That's It, its simple..

the typical traveler (to Paris museums) grabs a map and spends the next two hours darting from one masterpiece to the next, battling crowds, exhaustion and hunger (yet never failing to take selfies with boldface names like Mona Lisa). 
 What if we slowed down? 
What if we spent time with the painting that draws us in instead of the painting we think we’re supposed to see?

A beautiful and less stressful sense of arrival in Paris and other European cities

Exclusive to Protravel, we have  agents who will meet you at the exit door of your arrival aircraft, whisk your through customs/immigration ( special line) into baggage and whisk you via their limo to your Paris hotel or if you are just connecting in Paris onto to other cities throughout Europe and the world, our greeter will meet you exit door side of your aircraft and get you  over to your connecting gate.
They can do this in France, Germany/England/Italy and many other countries.
Although I have been to Paris many,many,many times, I use this service always...its a beautiful way to enter a city, seamless and no stress. A great sense of arrival.................
Call or email me for rates.

Believe it or not, there is no such thing as ‘food for kids’ in France. Les enfants simply eat normal food.

There is NO mac and cheese in France, unless you call Tartiflette ( a combo of potato, cheese and bacon) one.
So if you are taking children to France this year, don't expect children's menus with Mac and Cheese and spaghetti and such. It ain't gonna happen.

So, order for them like an adult and have them try everything, maybe,just maybe, they will like it.

A formula for avoiding sitting next to those pesky fellow Yankees who whoop it up and disturb your meal in Paris and finding good food in “secret places.

Written by Blogger John Talbott (whom I respect and agree with most of his restaurant reviews) 

 He writes: “I have hit upon a strategy for those Americans who long to find places their fellow New York Times’ readers have not, where English is not spoken (especially loudly and nasally), has good food and where they will walk out texting their 1,000 best “friends” that they found a place no one else knows about. What is it?: 

1. Don’t just go back to the places you liked/loved last time, 10 or the Gods forbid, 50 years ago. I know, I know, “a bird in the hand is worth two you've never tried,” and I respect folks who use this method;, but......................

 2. Eat at lunch when the French not the Anglos eat. 

 3. Go outside the inner snail circle of Arrondissements 1-8. So, “how John, how do you find these places?” I’m asked. You read the blogs – in French (come on, you took it 40 years ago, some words are obvious) and English, written by people who aren't New York Times/Travel ∧ Leisure/Food ∧ Wine reporters or stringers. 

4) You become a flaneur and listen to others who are flaneurs – “Hey, I saw this new place over near the VVV, check it out.” You enter places with fresh paint, look at the menu (posted by law) and setup, ask for a card and check it out with other nosy food-types. And, going against the grain of many folks, you eat with a diverse group of food-nuts, who let slip “secret information” known only to them ( I guarantee this formula works, but only if you’re willing to take risks, encounter some odd lemons and be there when the wait-folks are having bad days or their first days. 

 http://johntalbottsparis.typepad.com/

An American in Paris for years and years and years!

Stay at the Four Season's in Paris and experience one of their many exclusive activities free to Protravel Guests

Jeff Leatham Experience 
 Four Seasons Hotel George V is launching an exclusive Parisian experience by offering guests the opportunity to participate in a floral arrangement class hosted by Jeff Leatham, the hotel’s acclaimed Artistic Director. Renowned throughout the world for his spectacular floral creations, Jeff has truly revolutionized floral art. His talent extends beyond our borders and he is regularly called up to choreograph the most prestigious events. He has contributed notably to the reopening party of the Museum of Modern Art in New York, as well as collaborating with Kylie Minogue and more recently, he created the flower arrangements for Tina Turner’s wedding. Even Oprah Winfrey herself has become a huge fan and invited him in 2012 to participate as a guest on her famous televised about « dream jobs »


. Jeff Leatham will organize a floral art workshop quarterly within the hotel. It is a rare occasion to meet the famous artist encompassed by his favorite flowers and to discover his truly unique way of creating a flower bouquet… The 2 hour lesson takes place in one of the hotel’s salons and begins with a floral art demonstration followed by the opportunity to put into practice and create a bouquet. Jeff is delighted to share his passion for flowers in the place he has called home and where he has spent the last 14 years living in perfect harmony. Each month, he concocts a new theme and creates his designs on the spot thanks to the 9000 flowers that are delivered each week from Holland. « More than a class that teaches how to arrange flowers, it is a magical and unforgettable moment where our guests have the privilege to be able to assist. It is a unique moment in the company of one of the most Rock & Roll florists in the world» declares Christian Clerc, Regional Vice-president and General Manager of the Four Seasons Hotel George V. Jeff’s workshop is from 5 to 7 p.m. and is free of charge to all Protravel Guests

Paris - Having breakfast in a Luxury hotel is the end all... be all for me!

Breakfast at le Meurice Hotel - one of the best in the world.

No jeans, baseball caps worn backwards (or worn at all) , sweat suits allowed here, 

thank god!

Why France is better than Britain - quotes from the London Telegraph..I could have told you that!

The CEO of one of Britain’s largest retail corporations reckons France is "downbeat and hopeless"but At least it's not packed with Poundlands (99 cent stores) , kebab shops and staggering drunks.

Villages:
 It’s been said before, but can stand repetition: French villages retain vigor. They remain complete unto themselves as many rural English settlements no longer do. They will have a grocer’s, a butcher’s, a baker’s and, all being well, a bar-tabac with lottery tickets, old fellows playing cards and pictures of the village football team when they all had moustaches, c. 1978. They will have a boules pitch, associations, a weekly market, a carnival and an annual church trip to Lourdes. There are reasons for this vibrancy. One is that all 36,532 French communes run their own affairs, with a mayor and council. They are not offshoots of some bigger municipal entity. Village stuff is largely run in and by the village. Another is that, to a remarkable degree, French farming has remained small scale, thus ensuring proper country life which villages serve. (“Euro-agri-subsidies,” I hear you snort. So British farmers never received subsidies?) And a third is that the average French person retains ties to the countryside. Though they've lived in the city for generations, they reckon they remain of peasant stock. And they’ll likely return to the village in autumn for the annual pig-killing. 

Restaurants:
 It is now usual to say that French catering is terrible, British far better. It is also nonsense. Naturally one may eat satisfactorily in Britain – if one pays the price, or is prepared for corporate fare and a well-trained welcome. But British quality cooking is all top-downwards, spreading to the populace from expensive restaurants and mouthy chefs. The food chain starts in Waitrose. In France, the food chain starts on land, on sea and with animals, in all their gory detail. There’s the pig-killing and mushroom-hunting, and everyone’s an expert and may discuss the nuances of a coq-au-vin until you pass out. But it is this culture which informs chefs and which they must satisfy. Nowhere else do you eat so well up and down the scale because nowhere else has such unbroken links with a culinary heritage. And where in Britain are the family restaurants that jostle on every city, town and village street in France?

 Service:
 France has career waiters – serious chaps in serious aprons and ties who can correctly deliver 12 different drinks on one tray to one table, even though they were ordered in English. Britain has youngsters filling in time between television reality shows, who can’t spell cappuccino.

When I fell in love with Paris - Nov the 4th to be exact - Autumn - the most wonderful time in the city

 "Sitting there, alone in a foreign country, far from my job and everyone I know, a feeling came over me. It was like remembering something I'd never known before or had always been waiting for, but I didn't know what. Maybe it was something I'd forgotten or something I've been missing all my life. All I can say is that I felt, at the same time, joy and sadness. But not too much sadness, because I felt alive. Yes, alive. That was the moment I fell in love with Paris. And I felt Paris fall in love with me.'

The Netherlands - A WOW beyond Amsterdam - Chateau St. Gerlach

Tucked away in the unspoiled natural environment of the Geul Valley, near the Belgium and German borders ( and just 15 minutes from the oldest city in the Netherlands, Maastricht)  is the fabulous and ultra romantic Relais & Chateaux, Chateau St. Gerlach Hotel & Restaurant. This area and hotel are so special and yet is even unknown to many Dutch people. If you travel to the Netherlands ( and you must!) , this area and this hotel is a must to stay in. It has hosted the worlds leaders and common folk like myself. 
It's a WOW!!! What more can I say except, go there!

Have been away in the Netherlands and will return soon, by the way, the Netherlands are amazing............

A beautiful Fountain in a beautiful square and a Chimney in the Marais

There is a quiet little square in the 2nd arrondissement, close to the Bibliotheque (National Library) with the name Square Louvois.

and..........
A fashion store in the Marais - The Uniglo company built around a chimney built a long time ago.

Joy riding in a Ferrari high above the French Cote d'Azur

The mountain and coastal roads of the Cote d’Azur are considered some of the most gorgeous drives in the world. Now imagine taking their hairpin turns and breath-taking stretches behind the wheel of a convertible Ferrari F430 F1 Spider. You can enjoy an exhilarating ride next to a professional instructor or drive the car yourself (with a co-pilot instructor). Prices range from 59€ (for a 15-minute ride as the passenger) to 790€ (for three hours driving yourself). You can start your trip in Eze, Monte Carlo or Nice. Whether you want to be pilot or co-pilot, this is an experience you won’t forget! (And to make sure you don’t, a camera at the rear of the car will record the whole drive and you can have a copy of it on an SDHC for an additional 49€.)

A clients report on one of my favorite France hotels in the Loire valley area - Chateau de la Barre

Thursday, May 15th, 2014

Accommodations: Chateau de la Barre

The main house as seen from the sunken garden.

We tried something new when planning our trip this time: we decided to work with a travel agent. We’ve done pretty well planning trips on our own in the past, but this time we wanted to be sure that we were making the most of our limited time. The Loire Valley is a very large region and is very spread out. We knew we’d need a car but still wanted to plan to stay where we could visit the points of interest with a minimum of driving time. Our travel agent, Howard at Protravel International in Beverly Hills (who spends a good deal of time in France himself) helped us not only with our itinerary, but also had some excellent contacts and was able to recommend accommodations that we might not have unearthed on our own, as well as getting us some very nice upgrades in some places. He suggested that we split our stay in the Loire Valley between two locations.
The first, Chateau de la Barre is about 45 minutes outside of Le Mans. It’s the home of and run as a luxury small hotel by the Count and Countess de Vanssay, and has been in his family since the early 1400’s. Some parts of the main house date back even further. Upon our arrival, we were welcomed by the family dogs and the Count (who introduced himself as Guy and was as charming, funny and down-to-earth as you could imagine). He helped us with our luggage, then offered us some fresh apple cider made from an apple tree on the property in one of the sitting rooms. The day had been cool and drizzly and the fire and cider were welcome.

Our room was the Chambre Jaune, which featured an Aubusson tapestry behind the bed, and some 18th Century Italian furniture. (The bed linens were actual linens, embroidered.)



Nice toiletries too…

The view of the garden from our window was lovely.

Fresh flowers from the garden in our room. Guy handles the cultivation and arranging of fresh flowers that grace every room.

The room itself was spacious and comfortable. We were treated to a lovely breakfast each morning of fresh fruits, yogurts, cereals, pastries, juices and scrambled eggs. There are two dining rooms and the number of guests determines which is used for breakfast. We also joined a “Grand Siecle” dinner in the large dining room, hosted by the Count and Countess on our second evening there and it was exquisite and very memorable. There were two other couples by that point staying at the chateau, and it was a convivial evening. But first the Countess gave us a tour of the main parts of the Chateau, including the old “main keep” which dated from the 1300’s (and included an interior well as a defense against a siege). Because the chateau has remained in the same family through the centuries, much documentation from even the earliest years survives and the family history is fascinating (and would make for a GREAT novel!).

This main stairway is from the 14th century.

Defensive tower from either the 15th or 16th century, can’t remember. That sunken area was part of the moat.

The gardens.

These sheep roam free on the land. They’re rounded up annually, sheared and vaccinated, and then turned loose for another year.

Mme. de Vanssay (Marnie) was also SO incredibly gracious and helpful with suggesting activities and places to eat, providing maps and driving directions, and she goes out of her way to make her guests’ stay as comfortable and entertaining as possible. This was such a luxurious, unique and memorable experience, one I would recommend it highly if you’re planning to visit the Loire Valley.
Chateau de la Barre, Conflans-sur-Anille, FR.
Howard E. Lewis, France Specialist: howard.lewis@protravelinc.com

Classic Burgundian fare - found in a budget eatery just outside Beaune - This is what makes driving in France so much fun!

I stumbled across this budget eatery quite by chance on a drive outside Beaune. It turned out to be a wonderful place to eat and while away the hours on a sunny afternoon on a tree-shaded terrace as I put away copious portions of duck and beef dishes at very reasonable prices and a great staff and owner. 
L'Auberge du Marronnier, place du Marche, Chateauneuf en Auxois

Paris newest roof top restaurant in the Peninsula Hotel - "Pack my bags"

Taking Parisian dining to new heights, the crowning glory of The Peninsula Paris is L’Oiseau Blanc restaurant, bar and terrace, complete with a retractable roof and stunning views over the capital’s most iconic monuments. In this elevated setting, traditional French dishes are reinterpreted with contemporary flair by Chef Sidney Redel in a “bistronomique” menu designed to delight. The aviation-themed interior celebrates flying aces Charles Nungesser and François Coli who attempted to cross the Atlantic in 1927 from Le Bourget.

The restaurants name is after the plane ( The White Bird) that tried to make the first the Atlantic crossing, two weeks before Lindbergh; but they never made it and were lost somewhere over the ocean.

Paris Guimet Museum - Day Of The dragon

In Vietnam the dragon occupies a special position within an imaginary bestiary. This fascinating chimera provides a lively representation of its role as kindly protector; for centuries, Vietnamese artists have represented the meanders of its silhouette. Shaped like a snake, the dragon belongs to an aquatic world where it is both guardian and provider. Able to influence drought and flooding, it is equally at ease in a subterranean milieu, in water and in the skies. Focusing on images of the dragon, the exhibition covers a thousand years of history, from the Bronze Age to the twilight years of the last royal dynasty, through a new selection of works from the National Museum of Vietnamese History in Hanoi and the Musée national des arts asiatiques ― Guimet. The presentation leads the visitor through the developments of an iconography that was frequently associated with royalty and its prestige.

A Year In Monaco - It's the place I go back to time and again - I love it

A Bowl of Chocolate anyone? then Head over to the 69 rue du Bac in the 7e..............

If you love chocolate, then you must not walk, but run to Chapon Chocolat in the Left Bank

Bordeaux - St Emilion unusual wine cellar tour

Chateau Villermaurine, located on the outskirts of the village of St Emilion, offers one of France's most creative wine cellar guided tours. Latern in hand, you can discover the superb underground quarries of this grand cru classes through a sound and light show which combines history and legend and of course wine!