Paris at Lunch Time- a new vision of Elegance - LouLou

 

A panorama that could not be more Parisian, restaurant Loulou is connected to the museum des arts decoratifis (my favorite museum in Paris). One of the most beautiful summer terraces in all of Paris. Italian menu ( OK I forgive them) is just the place to find romance in this over the top romantic city.

Located between the Louvre and the Place de la Concorde

The most beautiful villages in the south of France - so many, where do I begin?

 So where do I begin?, welt, that's easy..you need to not look any further than...Mougins

Located in the hinterland of Cannes, as the south of France does best, old Mougins is a real Provençal postcard. On the heights, you can wander through small stone streets, climbed by ivy and squares where fountains are enthroned. Not to mention that you can see, in the distance, the Mediterranean which borders the Croisette.

The 'only way to fly' is taking the train in Europe

 Having just returned from 3 weeks in Germany, having taken the train everywhere,  was to me, the best and only way to travel.

Exploring France, Italy, Spain and Germany by train is immutable and green means of transport which constitutes in itself a journey. 

 Crossing the countryside, pastures, towns and villages, skirting wild creeks. The spirit that wanders freely with no other formalities than a simple piece of luggage and the joy of climbing aboard.  

A chance to sit back and relax and meet locals.

Champs Elysees - is described as the world's most beautiful avenue, but only by people who have not been there for several decades.

 In practice, it is a 'disaster' according to renown French architect, Philippe Chiambaretta. He says and I totally agree and most Parisians too, the avenue has become tacky, polluted and hated and the French tend to avoid it if at all possible. The only one who walk its broad avenue are tourists, in the thousands. 

BUT, The  city is seeking to being back this glorious avenue to its history with reducing traffic, widening pavements, planting trees and redesigning store fronts. 

The avenue which was in the middle of the woods until Emperor Napoleon III ordered the design of the French capital  in the second half of the 19th century, was long liked by Parisians. It used to be a very nice and fashionable part of the city. Parisians would love to  go there, essentially to walk amidst nature.

But the last 30 years its turned into an outdated and unpleasant area, 11,000 cars an hour producing tons of pollution. It's become  a highway and a terrible shopping mall.  Why would anyone go there, the locals ask?

The area is about to be redone, the first stage of re-enchantment has begun to bring life back into the area with much greenery..

Mimi Sheraton, New York Times food critic dies at age 97....

 As a rule, I never, ever read food critic reviews, as rating food is so subjective. Ah! but I did read always ( and collect all of his books) the late food writer and critic, James Villas, because ( like me) he waged an uncivil war against voguish gustatory gimmickry.

I knew upon reading his books, that we had a firm bond in our love of all food, and I loved in that he could talk and love all kinds of cooking and foods, but also, could waxed well on the joys of peanut butter and canned tuna!

I will admit that I never read any of Ms. Sheratons books or reviews, but in reading her obituary this morning, I was intrigued by a column she penned a few years ago, called the ' my 10 most memorable meals' and it ended, with her single best meal of her life. Where? You guessed it - France!

By far, she said, was a visit to Paris and the bistro Chez L'Ami Louis many years ago. She writes after spending a few weeks in Paris  to report on the new nouvelle cuisine created by the "young turks", she became exhausted by the cleverness of the new (My feeling always) , and that She cried out for traditional French cooking.

She described a visit to Bistro L'Ami Louis and found his food so totally stunning and soul satisfying ( Now, that woke me up as to her reviews) that it virtually wiped out memories of the new (Something I agreed with her) .

Decadent foie gras simply served with chunks of bread toasted over a wood fire, the sizzling giant snails, the roseate garlic and thyme-scented gigot of lamb, the legendary roast Bresse chicken, the blood-red entrecote and the crackling roasted kidneys - while most of her memories of the nouvelle creations have long disappeared, its the traditional French cooking that, those
melodies do linger on. 

Late in her life, she remarked that while everyone is looking to the right (or the new) , its better to check up on the left (or the old).

                                       Bravo, Ms. Sheraton.

Discovering the secret Paris that is hiding in plain sight.

 A flaneur ( which, I think of myself as, for as long as I can remember) is a stroller, a loiterer, someone who ambles without apparent purpose, but is secretly attuned to the history of the streets he walks. 

I walk the city ( cities) in order to really experience it.

My greatest pleasure in traveling in a foreign city lies in the unplanned journey. Ditch your map and itinerary, I say!

Someone wise once said ( Maybe it was me?) 
The only way to known a city well, is to waste time in it.

Being a Flaneur is about taste, and discernment, recognizing that the smaller overlooked sights are often the best. It's all about knowing you can't see it all and not wanting too.

People say get 'off the beaten track', but I say no, within that well worn beaten track lurks hidden treasures, if you know where to look.

The next series of  blog articles are about where to find those hidden treasures, not only in Paris, but in France's wonderful countryside and other charming towns and villages. 

I'm embarking this May, on a new railway adventure that will take me across the heart of Europe - to explore the Belle Epoch of pre World War 1 Europe.

 

I'll be using my 1913 Bradshaw's continental railway guide which opened an exotic world of foreign travel for the British and American tourist.

It told travelers where to go, what to see and how to navigate the thousands of miles of tracks crisscrossing the continent.

Now a century and a half later, I'm using my copy to relive an era of great optimism and energy, where technology, industry, science and the arts were flourishing.

I want to rediscover that lost Europe ( that period, of my Edwardian grandparents who traveled during that time) that in 1913, couldn't have known, that it's way of life would shortly be swept aside by the advent of war.  

PS: I have already done, Pre WW1 - France and Switzerland

I'm back and ready to travel again

 After 2 plus years of being confined to home, because of Covid19, I'm back and ready to travel, eat and drink my way through  France and Continental Europe. 

The New Paris Hotel Where You Can Sleep Under the Stars

 

A new hotel has just opened on the Right Bank (1er), Madame Reve and it's a WOW! But I hear you say, so many new hotels, so what's the difference here? It's quite a big difference, the hotel is located in the old historic Paris Post Office building, but the real difference here is all the rooms are on the top floor of the building. . The views are incredible - The Eiffel Tower or Sacre-Coeur or the Notre-Dame Cathedral. 

Within the top floor, is a 10,00 square foot roof terrace and sky garden. 

Just to quaff a drink at the bar is exciting.

Why should I talked about, click below and look at the hotel and its bedrooms.

https://madamereve.com/en/

   ( at my favorite London table)

I've just returned from London and the Southwest part of England and have much to report, so stay tuned. 

La Fontaine De Mars, a true Paris Bistro - nothing every changes and that's the way it should be!

 I never recommend restaurants in France, because my eating habits and likes are so far different than most people, but today I'm feeling a bit sentimental, so I'l talk about one of my favorite true Paris bistros - La Fontaine de Mars in the seventh Arrorndissement. 

Ever since I first visited this bistro over 50 years ago, its has become my go to place when ever I'm in Paris ( which is very often). A deluxe Bistro all with dark paneling and soft lights, pretty gingham tablecloths, napkins the size of sheets and the sort of easy bonhomie that is earned, not bought.

Like the other favorite, true Bistros throughout the city, I adore these great Parisian bistros. Reliable, never-changing, honed by years of doing the same thing, just right. No high art or named chefs, no smears, hype or hyperbole. Stars may rise and fall, but the beauty of these bourgeois food-serving French bistros, in Paris and beyond, will never cease to shine!

An unknown Abbey in the middle of France and its influence on one of France's greatest dress designers

 In 1895, a young girl from a very poor family was sent to a local Abbey ( in the Limoges region) for schooling for 6 years. The Abbey housed over 150 monks and was at one time the largest in France. Here the young girl was taught among other crafts to sew. 

Every Sunday, she and the other girls housed there would enter the chapel for mass. It was here that this young girl praying, noticed the beautiful stained glass windows. 

Those window designs would be the most important thing in her life and you'll see why.

The abbey today is not longer used as a girls school, but still stands.

The Abbey is in Aubazine and the little girl's name was Gabrielle CHANEL, or as she is known today, Coco Chanel.

Look at the stained glass window and think about Coco's logo.

The old age question from clients: Where in France can I go that has very few tourists?

 That's easy to answer, there are many spots within France, one of my favorites is in the Normandy region, in an area named La Manche ( on the Cotentin Peninsula) . La Manche is the French  name for the English Channel (Which it thrusts into) 

This area just west of the major D Day beaches, is a pretty and wild rural area of Normandy. Some people have called it a version of Ireland. The area stretches from Mont St Michel; to Cherbourg. Its home to charming seaside towns and villages, it has a rich maritime heritage and is home to many WW2 battles beyond the D Day beaches. 

If you are looking  for drop dead landscapes, largely undiscovered by tourists than look no further from here. 

Flavigny: Chocolate-box town

 As a film fan. I'm always looking at where a certain film was shot.

In France, there are so many locations. 

In the heart of Burgundy, I couldn't help pass up the opportunity to discuss one of French cinema's loveliest set locations. Based on the novel by the same name, Chocolate epitomizes the French chocolate-box lifestyle - quite literally.

Located in Cote-d'Or Burgundy, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain is a picturesque network of old streets surrounded by countryside. It dates back to the Viking era, when its abbey supposedly served as a hideout for precious local relics during invasions. Brimming with cobbled courtyards, ivy-coated walls and tightly winding allees. It is a deserving owner of the most beautiful villages in France status. 

Switzerland - an amazing eyeful!

 Just returned after three weeks from my sojourn around Switzerland. Its a small country, so I was able to visit every region and used the fantastic rail system to archive that. More about my trip later.

After 18 months being house bound, I'm off to Europe,. more specifically - Not France, but Switzerland

 Because at this point, France has to many restrictions in place and as hard as it is flying and traveling these days, I wish to make my traveling life as easy as I can and Switzerland offers that option.

Tucked in the heart of central Europe, Switzerland is packed with some of the Continent's most beautiful places and epic landscapes.  From fairy tale cities and towns circled by snow capped mountains to some of the worlds purest rivers and lakes, Switzerland is a country where a quick taste simply isn't enough. So, I'm taking it slow for at least two weeks. 

So with my Swiss Rail pass in hand, I plan to travel only by train. 

I plan to visit German speaking Zurich and Lucerne, then take a romantic steamer from Lucerne across Lake Luzern and then catch the scenic Swiss specialty train , the Gotthard Express on to the Swiss/Italian speaking city of Lugano. 

From there I'll train to the French speaking area of western Switzerland - Montreux, Lausanne and Geneva. 

Then train back to Zurich ( on the scenic Golden Pass railway) and fly home.  I'm flying Swiss Air, I believe if you have a chance, to fly a countries flag airline, because when stepping on board, you are almost there in their country of origin. 

Because food is a main focus for me, I'm staying at the lovely Relais/Chateaux chain of hotels, which is not only known for its homey hospitality, but  know for its excellent restaurants, specializing in local traditional food. 

See you again at the end of September.

~ Howard

After the pandemic, the question is , Is there any magic left in the world? - the answer is YES! Chateau de Mercues in France

 

Hidden France countryside  - deep in the heart of central France is the magical Lot Valley. Here you'll find a 13th-century turreted Castle hotel with its own fabled vineyard. 

Standing high on a cliff overlooking the Lot river is one of the truly great experiences of traveling in France.. A member of the Relais/Chateaux family, so of course that means a great restaurant experience is to be had. AND OH! THE EXPERIENCE!

 The owner of this fabulous castle hotel is the well known wine producer, Bertrand-Gabriel VIGOUROUX, whose Malbec wine ( a dark and inky wine ) that will take your taste buds to  new heights and you'll never look back at other red wines you have tasted. 

Charles de Gaulle who stayed here, remarked 'From here you can see history coming towards you'

Although the hotel dates back some 700 years, it has all the modern conveniences one expects from a great hotel, yes even a swimming pool. 

Cruise the Seine

 Many of the world's greatest cities have riverine settings, but not many of those rivers are worth following to the sea. Not so with the Seine, which departs Paris to uncoil itself through Normandy's countryside, heading for the medieval capital of Rouen, a city with an astoundingly intact historic quarter. On this river cruise with Uniworld, essential stops en route include Monet;s beloved home in Giverny and the pretty estuary port of Honfleur. Beyond Honfleur lie the Normandy beaches and scene of the D-Day landings.

Chateau de Versailles, Le Grand Controle is France's most remarkable hotel.

 

For the first time in centuries, now people can sleep on the grounds of the Versailles palace without being royalty or courtiers. 

A long neglected building ( built in 1681)  on the grounds of Versailles has now been turned into a luxury hotel, of only 14 suites (each on different) . The hotel has an Alain Ducasse restaurant, a Valmont spa and an indoor pool ( No, not the original) but the piece de resistance is for guests only - before and after Versailles official hours, you'll be able to stroll your own private stomping ground of 2,000 acres of gardens and three palaces at your leisure. 

August 09, 2021 - after 18 months, we are officially open again!! Hurrah!!!

 Time to get out your guide books and start planning. So many new exciting hotels have opened in France, I can't wait to see them all. 

Please check back in the next few days to get a look see.

Nice to have all of you back!

France is back! July 01, 2021 - Hurrah

A journey, a home, a retreat, a refuge...

 Domaine de Primard - the new dream 5-star hotel just 1 hour out of Paris. The former  18th-century home of French actress Catherine Deneuve has now been transformed into an opulent country hotel with a Michelin kitchen and and fabulous spa.

The hotel is now a part of the Relais/Chateaux family.

The hotel is situated in the northern part of Normandy, close to Giverney.

 

Why BONJOUR is the most sacred word to French people and your entree into France

 

While greetings may not be much of a part of  life here in the USA, in France, the word BONJOUR is sacred. "Honestly, it may be terrible to say (explains a person in Paris) but if a colleague does not greet me in the morning, I'll think he or she is mad at me or in a bad mood and  then, I will be the one in the bad mood, having been offended" 

So, as a visitor in France, to really get along and fit in, when you interact with another human being, say Bonjour before asking anything ( very, very important!!).

Bonjour is not just about saying hello, it is much more, a sign of respect. Knowing this will often give you better service when entering a shop or a bakery or otherwise you will just be perceived as a bad-mannered person. I cannot overstate this to tourists. 

As a shop owner told me 'If you come to me with just a request, I am clearly going to think you see me as a robot that is just here to satisfy your needs and not as a human being that deserves a little respect'

If you can just learn this, your time in France can be so much more lovely.