No!, This Is Not A Jewerly Shop, but a Chocolate Shop!

Pierre Marcolini is not the typical Belgian chocolatier ( now has a shop in Paris) in that he enrobes his chocolates by hand (dips the centers in chocolate) instead of shell-molding them. His flavors are full-forward (i.e., pronounced and flavorful), but at the same time beautifully refined and elegant. He uses a minimum amount of sugar so the pure flavors of the chocolate and other ingredients show through—even the milk and white chocolates are never cloying. In these respects, Marcolini is French rather than Belgian in style; and even among French chocolatiers, his level of flavor complexity and finesse is achieved only by a handful of greats. As an added wonderment, Marcolini fuses his job as pastry chef into his job as chocolatier, utilizing puff pastry and cookies as surprise bases under some of the enrobed chocolates—and the results are dazzling!
3 rue Scribe , 9e tel: 01-44710374

How To Travel On the French TGV - Bullet Trains

This video gives you a good idea of what TGV travel is like. It starts at Paris Gare de Lyon boarding a TGV for the south of France... The grey-green seats are 2nd class, the red & grey seats 1st class. The rather impressive at-seat meals are only offered in 1st class on some key business trains, but a cafe-bar with snacks, drinks, beer & wine is available on most TGVs.

Wonderful ice cream places in Paris for visitors to try this summer! (apart from Berthillon!)

one of my favorite Parisian guides offers a few of her choices for some new places to try ice cream in Paris.
Pierre Hermé has introduced his new ice cream and sorbet collection and his flavors are just as intense as his macaroons. Here are his creations to try:
• Ispahan: Litchi and rose sorbet with raspberries
• Caramel au Beurre Salé: Caramel ice cream with salted butter
• Plentitude: Chocolate ice cream with flecks of chocolate and fleur-de-sel
• Satine: Orange, passion fruit and cream cheese
• Montebello: Pistachio ice ream with strawberry sorbet
Pierre Hermé
4 Rue Cambon or 72 Rue Bonapartre
75001 Paris 75006 Paris

An unusual name, but incredible ice cream is Grom. Originally from Torino, Grom uses all-natural flavorings, which include growing some of the organic fruit they use in their sorbets and graniti, grinding up vivid-green Sicilian pistachios for the gelato and exquisite hazelnuts from Piedmont with Venezuelan chocolate for their silky-smooth version of Gianduja.
Glacier Grom
81 Rue de Seine
75006 Paris
Le Bac à Glace tucked away behind the Bon Marché is an unassuming glacier which boasts all-natural ice creams. Avocado, mango, fig and blackberry to name a few all with bits of fruit inside.
Le Bac à Glaces
109 Rue de Back
75006 Paris

Are French tourists the worst in Europe? Todays laugh

A survey released this week reveals that French tourists are the most hated European travelers. Tourism workers tell Expedia Web Site about their experiences with French tourists - tight with money, arrogant, unable to hold their drink and always on the lookout for girls.
The survey, taken out by TNS Infratest for travel website Expedia.fr, quizzed employees in 40,000 hotels in Europe and North America on the behavior of 27 nationalities when on holiday. The French were only outdone by two countries in terms of overall disagreeability - the Chinese came top of the worst, closely followed by the Indians. The French were blamed for being tight with their wallets, impolite, and unwilling to speak other languages, although they did fare well in being quiet, well dressed (Of Course!) and tidy.
The most welcome tourists were the Japanese, who came top for the third consecutive year. Runners up were Canadians, Germans and Brits - who were voted second for (surprisingly), quietness and dress-sense. The notoriously noisy Americans were indeed top of the loud pack, but they were praised for their willingness to try the local language and tip generously, coming 11th overall.
BUT, the travel experts disagree on how the Expedia survey was taken and who actually participated. , Well, to me, Howard, the story is fishy and the media is pushing hard their fondness for recycling Francophobe clichés. Although is a good media story, I would take it with a grain of salt!

Gallic Sand

Now that summer is here, I am getting asked by clients traveling to France, what some of the best beaches are. My first response is to say, if you are from the western hemisphere, the best beaches are here, why you would want a second rate beach in Europe, but that said –here are a few recommendations, if you must:

Corniche de l’Esteral, Cote d’Azur: It’s not only my opinion, but the French also, that the Cote d’Azur is now concrete from end to end. Development has gone crazy! But for solitude-seekers, the Corniche de ‘l’Esteral, from St Raphael to Cannes is the place. Hard to get to and so you’ll find more solitude here.

Pampelonne Beach, St Tropez: Not for the impoverished of dress and pocket. Still attracts the beautiful, the famous and RICH! It’s the most famous beach in southern France. Bring lots of money and a strong ego!

Les Landes, Aquitaine: The long coastline (north of Bordeaux) is marvelous – the beaches here are flat, endless and pounded by France’s finest rollers, dunes lineup like coastal defenses and vast pine forests behind contain an infinity of secrets. You’ll find more French tourists here, all requiring peace and quiet; no souvenir shops nor chic cafes and restaurants to speak of.
And speaking of dunes…my all time favorite visit along this coast is Europe’s highest sand dune; Grand Dune du Pyla, (in the photo above) just west of Bordeaux. It rises to a spectacular height of 328 ft and oh! What views you get from here.

Howard Lewis is named by Conde Nast Traveler Magazine as one of their 126 World's Top Travel Specialists for 2009

In the August, 2009 issue of Conde Nast Traveler Magazine, Howard E Lewis has been named as one of the 126 World's Top Travel Specialists. Mr. Lewis has won this award since 2003 and is honored once again to be part of this very special group of world wide travel specialists.

Food Shopping Through French-Colored Glasses

This weekend I went to a local farmers market in Los Angeles and although the food was fresh and there were many varieties to choose from, a certain excitement was missing, something was lacking. lacking from what I experience in France every time I am there. What was it? I could not put my finger on it, ..until this afternoon, when I looked again at author Mirelle GUILIANO's wonderful book "French Women Don't Get Fat" and there it was and here is what she wrote:

Whether in the French provincial villages, cities or Paris itself, on certain days of the week you can always see the trucks in the local squares and lining the streets. This caravan is hauling fresh produce, the best of the season, from meat and game, fruits and vegetables, herbs and spices. Have you ever seen twenty-seven varieties of olives in as many barrels?

Market day is a tradition dating back centuries, since before France was Gaul. Why does it persist in the 21st century even as French conglomerates have erected hypermarchés (supermarkets that could rival any American ones in size)? Why do people of all walks of life brave the cold and heat, rain or shine, to choose among three varieties of string beans, seven types of potatoes, various shapes of bread, quail eggs, organic hens, wild boar, forty-three varieties of cheese, untold numbers of herbs, fish, and of course fresh-cut flowers?

Knowing where it comes from

The term "artisanal" lately creeping into American restaurants and markets provides a clue. Handcrafted quality has always been at the heart of French gastronomy and culture. French women live by it. It encompasses handling as well as production: eggs that are hours, not months, old; the yolks not pale yellow, but orange and exploding with flavor. It means white peaches picked early that morning oozing with juices and destined to live at peak intensity for but a day before slowly dying.

Faire son marché (to do one’s food shopping) remains a vital French institution, here to stay despite the proliferation of the hypermarkets (now, mercifully, limited by law). It’s a vital social occasion. We see our neighbors, compare notes, and crucially, get to know the producers, the farmers who come to recognize you and you learn to trust. It’s critically important, because in France one does not dare squeeze the merchandise; rather, the trusted purveyors pick among the produce for you according to when you plan to eat something, how and with what. This discussion can go on a bit, and the next in line waits quite patiently, respecting the seriousness of her neighbor’s business.
If you go to France and never experience an outdoor village market, then your French experience is not complete, you will never understand the culture unless you do!

Royal Summer Evenings At Versailles

During the summer in Paris, Versailles hosts several night time evening spectaculars around its water basin. Music and fireworks at 9:30pm.
A highlight this summer is the Fêtes de Nuit, allowing visitors to step back in time, themed around Cyrano de Bergerac, Fantastic fireworks and giant images on water screens are set to music.
Saturday 29 August, 5 and 12 September
Friday 4 and 11 September
Thursday 10 September
Bassin de Neptune – 9.30 pm
Prices from Euro 35 to 85 (the higher rate is for your car parking - but of course visitors don't have cars)
Tickets can be ordered on line at the Versailles website.

Vive Le France - Happy Bastille Day!

How To Be Chic and Un-Chic In Paris This Summer

It's almost Bastille Day and Paris has started the holiday shutdown so it's a good time for a few random tips on being cool in the French capital this summer. Here are some tips from an Ex-pat living in Paris (over 20 years) from his ‘hip’ children.
The style of the season is nouveau modeste
Le look for women: retro and slightly ethnic. The Sarouel (above)is the look again this year, along with white everything and creole loop earrings.
Footwear: espadrilles Castaner
Paris teenagers carry big hand-bags permanently on the crook of their elbows
Sunglasses (men and women). Persol only. Classic French marque. Never, of course, to be perched on top of the head
Men: Anything as long as it does not include sneakers/trainers, sandals, shorts, trousers with big appliqué pockets, t-shirts with logos or slogans, back-packs, shoulder bags, or, heaven forbid, man capris
Simple rule: Below
Paris is an elegant northern city not a Med package resort
Dog: English bulldog, known as le bouledogue anglais. The Jack Russell terrier is ending its reign as top four-legged Paris accessory.
Car: Toyota IQ. Replaced the Smart as chic Paris wheels. Do not be seen near any 4x4 (SUV).
Parking: give your keys to one of the hundreds of voituriers (valet parking attendants) who have multiplied around hip cafes and restaurants. You don't have to be a customer, just tip well.
Top transport: bicycle. Le Vélib, the city's self-service bikes; are great but very 2007.
Public transport: The municipal autobus is to be preferred to the smelly Métro, especially in light summer traffic. It's a more pleasant conveyance and you see the city.

Places to be seen: La Réserve (rare book collection) at the Bibliothèque Nationale. The terrace of Le Café de l'Alma on the avenue de la Bourdonnais [those two cited as top snob spots in Figaroscope] Sunday brunch at the Neuilly-sur-Seine market.
Places not to be seen: The Champs Elysées, the Eiffel tower, the Fifth arrondissement, Paris Plage or anywhere along the central Seine banks. Any cafés and brasseries that display English-language menus or claim to have English-speaking waiters.
Where Parisians holiday this year: Inland rural regions like Picardy, Lorraine, Ardèche and the Cévennes. Provence and the Mediterranean coast are to be avoided like la peste.
Parisian pastimes on holiday: Fishing, bicycling, jeux de société (board games), listening to vinyl records, barbecue.

Monet's "The Nympheas" Rediscovered After Decades

In 2 rooms at the Musee de l’Orangerie is the new restored fabulous paintings of Claude Monet, the light here is soft and white, the emptiness is absolute, and the eyes encounter no obstacle. The visitor is as though caught up in this landscape; he turns, he turns round again, he looses himself and is finally drowned among these paintings with such evocative names as “morning”, “clouds” and “green reflections”.

Paris Outlet Stores

There’s an extraordinary best-buy factory outlets mall in the east of Paris, La Vallee Outlet Shopping Village. There are more than 70 prestigious and luxury brands with reduce prices (by at least 33% - often far more - of their original on their previous seasons collections).
Some of the shops are:
-Celine
-Kenzo
-Miss Sixty
-New Man
-Bodum
-Calvin Klein
-Max Mara
-Puma
-Versace
-Polo Ralph Laurent
-Charles Jourdan
-Cacharel
-Diesel
-Mexx
-Nina Ricci
-Gianfrance Ferre
-O Neill
-Tommy Hilfiger
-samsonite
-Furla
-Donaldson
-River Wood
-Timberland
-Cafe Cotton
-Darjeeling
-Blanc Bleu
-Mandarina Duck
-Givenchy
-Camper
-Anne Fontaine
-Longchamp
-Cerutti
-Cristian Lacroix
-Agnes B.
-Burberry
-Armani
-Reebok
-Francois Girbaud

The village opens everyday (In France, usually shops close every Sunday) from 10.00-20.00.
There are some place to eat too, such as Starbucks Coffee and Berts.
Almost all the salesperson here can speak English.

Footsteps of the Romans - albeit.... in the water

One of the major sites to visit in Provence is the Pont du Gard near Avignon.
The Pont du Gard was built shortly before the Christian era to allow the aqueduct of Nîmes to cross the Gard river. The Roman architects and hydraulic engineers who designed this bridge, which stands almost 164 feet high and is on three levels – the longest measuring 900 ft – created a technical as well as an artistic masterpiece. Its one of the treasures of France and a must to visit.
If you are there from March to October, I can suggest a new way to view it…from the middle of the river on a canoe.
For a great family day out I recommend a sporting but relaxing adventure cameoing through the meanders of the river Gardon from Collias ( just north of the bridge) to the Pont du Gard. You rent a canoe and meander down the slow moving river to the Pont and then the canoe company will pick you up and take you back to the rental station.
The 8 km trip for 2 hours usage ( picnic on the banks ,if you wish) of the canoe with transfers runs Euro 20. Please Email me for details.

A Vineyard in the Heart of Paris

Montmartre, for all its renown, is a part of Paris that I usually avoid. Busloads of tourists throng the square near the cathedral, especially in summer. And the cheap businesses that have sprung up to serve them lend a tawdry atmosphere to this otherwise beautiful neighborhood. But that said, I love to visit Paris's last remaining vineyard, nestled on the Butte Montmartre. It is one of Paris' most secret gardens with its only remaining vineyard.
You will feel as if you were in a French San Francisco as you climb the Butte Montmartre. Make sure to look around as you walk. The Butte Montmartre is one of the most charming neighborhoods of Paris, full of individual houses that have lots of character compared to the homogeneous Hausmannian apartment buildings lining the streets of many arrondissements. You also can catch glimpses into the secret gardens of several of the surrounding homes, as well as a stunning view of the icing sugar castle that is the cathedral of Sacré Coeur.
The wine produced here is called, Le Clos Montmartre and in the middle of October a big wine festival goes on. Today, the harvest is a celebrity event, and sale of the wine goes to charity.
To discover the vineyard of the Clos Montmartre, take the #12 Métro line north of Place Pigalle to the Lamarck-Caulaincourt stop. Go up the steps in the photo and follow the signs for the Musée Montmartre.

Romance and Exercise do not go together, but in Paris...

As a Romantic, I do not equate exercise with romance, but I must admit, taking a tour on an electric bike in Paris, discovering hidden pearls within this city, an old monastery in the heart of the city, ageless ruins, an extravagant mountain chalet found between modern buildings....few tourists, I guess, suspect that Paris abounds in countrysides , real meadows, hamlets rising along malls..YES, only goats and mules are missing. You can see this and more with an electric bicycle and a tour guide.
Paris Charms and Secrets- offers 3 daily, 4 hour tours thru hidden Paris..via charming avenues and secret alleyways...The cost is about Euro 45 with an English speaking guide. The tours begin in the most romantic of places...the Place Vendome...Home of the Ritz Hotel...as Gershwin once wrote " Who could ask for anything more?"