Dreaming Of France...............

Benjamin Franklin once remarked:
“Every civilized person has two homelands, and France is always one of them.”

So, next time in France, you should consider barging through the Burgundy Canals.

Electric Bikes To Rent in Provence

The weather was gorgeous in Provence last weekend (my friends in Avignon told me this morning). That weekend was the launch  for Sun-e-Bikes in the Luberon. They've got 200 new electric bikes for rent and you can pick them up and drop them off in any of three villages. There are battery charging stations along the way and rates are very reasonable.

On the back of the bike is very thin battery pack.

Lake St Remy de Provence ( a man-made lake) nearby and if the weather is good, a place to have a picnic.

Les Landes - Unknown Region To American Tourists..But OH!

One of France’s regions that I have fallen in love with over the last couple of years is Aquitaine. Bordered by Bordeaux on the north and Biarritz on the south. For most American tourists to France, it’s really a vast unknown area. In between those two cites lies an immense area known as Les Landes. Here you will find my favorite duck farm purveyor of Foie Gras (near the village of Baxente) and a fantastic stretch of beach, deserted it seems for hundreds of miles, with small villages and tourist hotels dotted here and there. There are no major hotels here, mainly French casual summer homes, cottages and B & B’s.
Travelling south from Bordeaux by road or rail, you pass for what seems like hours through an unremitting, flat, sandy pine forest known as Les Landes. Until the nineteenth century it was a vast, infertile swamp, badly drained because of the impermeable layer of grit deposited by the glaciers of the quaternary age and steadily encroached upon by the shifting sand dunes of the coast. Today it supports nearly 10,000 square kilometres of trees and since 1970 has been designated a parc naturel régional.
Here is a film overview of the area to tease you.

True Oysters in Paris That Are Not Farmed

70% of oysters served in France are farm raised along the French coast and as good as they are, its the true ocean grown, wild oysters of the old days that were the tastest. Today, a few oyster farmers are still doing it the' old way' and one of those is Laurence Mahéo – a fashion designer – took over the family oyster business a few years ago, and her Gavrinis ( Gavrinis is a small island, situated in the Gulf of Morbihan in Brittany, France) have been served at some of the Paris's top tables. Now she has a table of her own, offering not only her famous bivalves, but a wide array of fruits de mer, some raw and some delicately cooked (with a light Japanese touch) in an airy blue and white room that will take you from Batignolles to the Brittany coast.The restaurant is called ATAO ( 17e) . Atao means eternity in Breton and all the fish and seafood come daily from their location at the Golfe du Morbihan, it can't be fresher than that!

The Trendiest Desset In Paris Done Right.......

Every Paris restaurant these days does Le Café Gourmand. While it seems to be a fixture on every single menu , along with the ubiquitous warm chocolate cake often it’s a rewarmed frozen macaron, a tiny chocolate cake (likely pulled from the same freezer), and if you’re lucky, maybe a financier from an actual bakery. At Les Fines Gueules Restaurant (best known for using organic beef and veal - and their steak tartar is the best in Paris!) Here they offer up a thick pot of ganache made with Valrhona chocolate, a generous crème brûlée and a moist, hefty slice of orange pound cake, along with a well-made café express.

The Green Venice of France - One of Europes best-Kept secrets

34 Miles from la Rochelle ( 3 hours by TGV from Paris) is an area known as - Marais Poitevin( Venise-Verte) - GreenVenice is a wetland wonder that spans 375 square miles. Here is a carved out network of canals where you can rent or charter boats and glide along poplar-lined canals teeming with wildlife. Here are charming villages and gardnes in in the village of Canneau, is a floating market that brings over 50 producers to seel their good from their boats.

I Miss My Morning Cafe Creme....(also known as cafe au lait)

"It was a pleasant cafe, warm and clean and friendly, and I hung up my old water-proof on the coat rack to dry and put my worn and weathered felt hat on the rack above the bench and ordered a cafe au lait. The waiter brought it and I took out a notebook from the pocket of the coat and a pencil and started to write.” - Hemingway

Paris Cocktails With A View

Looking for a hip new bar in paris? check out la vue, with exactly that- a great view of the city. the place boasts hip djs, a funky menu, and a special elevator to take you to the 34th floor so you can sip your cocktails with paris at your feet. so chic!
La Vue
3, place du Général Kœnig, 17th
Its in the HÔTEL CONCORDE LA FAYETTE

I have not done it myself, but friends in Paris have.

Avignon - Across The River, What A Find!

Just across the river in Avignon, home to the Palias des Papes, on the side called Villeneuve-les-Avignon is a find that seemes to be missed by tourists. I know, I know, you can do and see everything!
Is the Carthusian Monastery and Ft Andre. The monastery was built in the 14th century and unlike busy Avignon, it takes you back to an atmosphere of unimaginable transquillity.  This monastery is larger than the Palais des Papes, across the river and that's saying something.

Near by is also Sainte Andre Fort, Philippe le Bel, King of France, ordered the construction of the Saint André Fort as a symbol of royal power in opposition to the popes of Avignon and to the lands of the Holy Roman Empire. It includes a fortified wall and two twin towers that flank the monumental gate. The wall was built to protect the Benedictine abbey and the small town of Saint André.

A Secret Paris Market...Well,..... Maybe Only to Us Tourists

If you enjoy the Marais and are a history buff or a market troll, you must take the time to discover the oldest market in Paris : le Marché des Enfants Rouges.
Le Marché des Enfants Rouges is reputedly the oldest food market in Paris, built under the rule of Louis XIII around 1615. The name, which literally means the Market of the Red Children, refers to the red uniform worn by the children of the orphanage that was located nearby.
Still marked out by a small iron gate off the rue de Bretagne in the now rather chic upper Marais district, today the market is alive with the rich, vibrant colours and smells of fresh fruits, vegetables and flowers and the sounds of market clatter and chatter. Olive oil, charcuterie, wine, cheese and other such wholesome delights are also available.

The market is an ideal spot for lunch too. Freshly cooked dishes can be bought from the various stalls (Moroccan, French, Italian, sushi, cheeses, meats and so on) and eaten at the communal trestle tables at either end of the market.
There are also a couple of small restaurants, such as L’estaminet which serves simple, homely French food such as Parmentier (shepherd’s pie). A plentiful Brunch is available on Sunday for € 20.00 too.

Interpreting the French face - Who Says The French Don't Have A Sense of Humor?

The French face is what hands are to the Italians. It stretches and twists to express a wide range of expressions and emotions with the same elasticity of a rubber band. From disbelief to discontent, it can convey a message just as clearly as any grouping of words. Here’s a look at a French face , and how to interpret the meaning:

This face is probably the most common face made in Paris. It is formed by pursing the lips and blowing forcefully out, with a slight raise of the eyebrows. It is used in situations of general annoyance (for example, when walking behind someone who moves at a snail's pace).

Mining The Arts - My Favorite Place in Provence Reopens

The Cathedral of Images near Les Baux de Provence has been closed for a year. Now it's reopening on 30 March with a new name, the Quarries of Light, and a stunning new son et lumière show exploring the tormented relationship between Van Gogh and Gauguin
http://www.carrieres-lumieres.com/en/home

A unique way to discover the Mont Saint Michel!

For something different in seeing Mont St Michel, how about a 2-3 hour walk to the Mont Saint Michel from the mainland?. You will have the chance to discover the hugeness of the bay Mont St-Michel and maybe even see some pink flamingos.
The itinerary takes you across two rivers, See and Selune, and famous moving sands. During the summer I recommend shorts, sun block, a sweater and water, and be prepared to hike barefoot. During the winter the departure point may be different, and you will need warm clothes, boots and moisturizer.
Your journey begins at Tombalaine Rock

Email me for details..................

An Instant Italy Just Over The French Border....

The French Riviera - Many people may not be aware of this, but Italy is just round the corner from the French Riviera… Just 30 minutes or so from Nice, are the Italian towns of Ventimiglia and San Remo, so you can easily have an “I’ve set foot in Italy” moment during your visit on the Riviera and add it to your countries’ list even if you’ve never been to places like Rome or Venice.

The first city just over the France/Italy border is Ventimiglia and is pretty much like any other border town, nothing  spectacular, BUT just a few minutes past this unremarkable town is the glorious Royal Hotel in San Remo. It’s been around for 140 years and has recently been purchased and made into a spectacular seaside resort.

The hotel is a perfect blend of tradition and innovation in a unique setting with stunning views of the sea. You must book a fantastic junior suite with out door patio that overlooks the sea! Totally romance is the only word I can find for it.

So if you need to have an "Instant" Italy while in Southern France, you must stay at this ‘wow’ resort.

A Tip When Eating In Paris - Do Like The French Do!

It's the law, in France that cafes,restaurants and bakeries, particularly bakeries when it comes to bread/pain, the government sets the prices/prix and they MUST be posted in the window no less. OK.. Try and find this in the US anywhere. So many places don't post prices.
It's a snob thing in the US of A, don't you think?

If you see the word 'formule' in a lunchtime menu - that's the best thing to order. The best deal for what was bought fresh from the market that day. Everyone around you (if they're French) will be eating it. It makes sense and cents.

Hermes On Sale? OUI!

Those in-the-know know that Hermes has a semi-annual sale, off site, twice a year with exceptional prices. This year, as in the past few years, the sale takes place at the Palais de Congres, and the final day will the end of January.
What's in store? Scarves are by far the best buy- and you'll have to wait in line to see them- at 175 euros instead of 310 euros in stores.  I always buy my men's pocket sqaures there, Ties were 83 euros. Racks of clothing and shoes were all on offer, with prices about 50% off, but this year there was very little jewelry or leather accessories. If you missed this sale, not to worry, just mark your calendars for the end of June

Pop Goes The Garden

one of the cutest souvenirs i've seen in a while- a simple little card that pops up, holding a sachet of grass to water....letting you watch the grass grow with the vista of the Eiffel Tower behind.  it's always greener on the other side, non?  for a limited time only, available at monceau fleurs [19 euros]

Mont Saint Michel - Major Change

Once upon a time, the Mont Saint-Michel was to become an island again. The building of a lightweight bridge replacing the actual causeway is still under way, and the new parking area (located 1.5 mile from the Mont) is scheduled for opening on 28th April 2012. Parking fees, drop-off fees and options to reach the Mont are now available: on foot as in past times, or onboard the new bi-directional shuttle buses or horse-drawn tire-mounted shuttles.
Click below to see a video on what is hapening at the Mont............

Everything is coming up roses at Au Nom de la Rose.

I love Paris flower shops and my favorite store or stores in Paris is the Au Nom de la Rose, a shop that specializes in everything roses.. They make smart arrangements in mini- watering cans and do an adorable one with either a single, double, or triple rose configuration in a tiny tin pail. I always buy one of them to put in my hotel room
Not only do they have a spectacular selection of roses, they also offer a product line of other rose products, including jam, lollipops, chocolates with crystalized roses, perfume, candles, room spray, and rose flavored syrup.

An American Flag Flies Daily In Paris For A French-American Hero

The Cimetière de Picpus has to be one of the most tranquil outdoor spaces in Paris. When strolling through the grounds, you have a sense of being transported in time to a small village far from any booming metropolis. Yet it is located a short walk from the Place de la Nation in the 12e arrondissement. The private cemetery encompasses a 19th-century Chapel, a large expanse of grass, fragrant boxwood, and a minuscule burial grounds (by Paris standards).
It is here that the Marquis de Lafayette is buried, in soil from Virginia that he brought to France after his final visit to the young United States in 1825. It is at Lafayette's grave that the American flag has flown uninterrupted in France, even during years of the Nazi occupation of Paris. It is here that General Pershing's assistant, Stanton, pronounced the famous "Lafayette, nous voilà!" on July 4, 1917, to proclaim the U.S. troops' arrival to support France in the throes of a terrible World War I. It is here that Lafayette's wife Adrienne was buried before him, in a spot chosen for its proximity to the mass grave where her immediate family had been "buried" with hundreds of other nobles beheaded in the French Revolution.
It is a cemetery to visit the next time you have the chance.
So it is fitting that each July 4 the American flag at Picpus Cemetery is renewed amid great solemn and moving ceremony. On that morning,11, dignitaries from the U.S. Embassy, the French Senate, the Mairie de Paris, the Society of the Cincinnati, the Sons of the American Revolution, and Friends of Lafayette and the general public -- both French and American -- gathered to pay tribute to this hero of two worlds.
A U.S. Military Color Guard stands at attention while the French Garde Nationale band played the "Star Spangled Banner." That alone was a touching moment of transatlantic honor and friendship. The Marseillaise follows, of course. In lieu of loud cheering, there is a wave of emotion that reverberates among the spectators. The crowd, already hushed, shares an official minute of silence. Brief speeches followes, with placing of flowers on Lafayette's grave site. The U.S. Ambassador, addresses the assembled group in French. In France and in the U.S., he is a man to remember and revere. During all the political ups and downs of the nearly two and a half centuries of friendship between our two nations, we owe it to ourselves to remember that in the U.S. House of Representatives, there are two larger-than-life portraits flanking the speaker's podium: Washington and Lafayette.
Cimetière de Picpus: 35 rue de Picpus, 75012 Paris. Metro: Nation
Open to the public every day except Mondays and holidays from 2 pm to 6 pm. For information, contact the conservateur at 01.43.44.18.54 There may be a modest entrance fee.

Domaine de Capelongue - Hidden In the Provence Luberon Valley Hillside

In the Luberon, many restaurants, hotels and resorts close the weekend after Armistice Day on November 11 and the valley hibernates — a chilly slumberous sometimes rain-lashed place — until mid-March.

But come Spring, in the pine hills above the village of Bonnieux sits the Domaine de Capelongue. Besides being a hotel, it is also a Michelin 2 star restaurant.

Sunday Market in France - Olives Galore!

(The olive lady at the L'isle sur la sorgue Sunday market in Provence.)

I love all types of French outdoor markets and my favorite booth is always the olive one, that showcases scores and scores of olives.
This one is in the town of l'isle sur la sorgue (also the antique capitol of France)
Green olives with thyme or pickled lemons, black olives with garlic or red hot chili peppers are just a few of the many types of olives you can buy at the market here. Olives are so much part of the Mediterranean culture!, but are found all over France at local markets.

Glass floor for Eiffel Tower - 2013

The Eiffel Tower is about to provide its visitors with a step into dizzying suspension. Soon visitors to the first level will look straight down the Eiffel Tower through a plate of glass instead of looking through the fence. The idea of the architect, Alain Moatti, is to give the impression of floating above Paris.

In its third major renovation since 1889, a portion of the Eiffel Tower’s solid flooring will be transformed into a 1.5m (5 ft) wide platform of glass. An inclined glass barrier is designed to replace the present grilled fencing. The work begins February 2012 and will be available for viewing during the summer 2013.
The present buildings from the 1980s with their mirrored windows will give way to transparent, windowed buildings to give the visitor the sense of openness into the surrounding space. The lateral walls framing the glass façades will be painted in the original brown-red color of the Eiffel Tower.

TV Commerical As Only The French Can Do It!

This Dior commercial, with Charlize Theron, Greta Garbo, Grace Kelly and Marilyn Monroe was directed by Oscar-winning French director Jean-Jacques Annaud and made using CGI or Computer Generated Imagery.

2011 Christmas Windows at Galeries Lafayette

The cities departments stores have window displays not only for children, but for adults.

Ambassade d'Auvergne - Paris Comfort Food At It's Best

I have many favorite comfort food restaurants I love in Paris and one of my all time favorites ( I desperately hope it never changes) is the restaurant that features the cooking from the Auvergne ( central France) area.

Located in the Marais in an ancient house (two floors) it has been running since 1968. Comfortably spaced tables, the service is well rhythmed, the welcome warm and the prices moderate and the food, absolutely delicious, made up of hearty peasant dishes to showcase the quiet pleasures of the French cooking.

This is stick-to-your-ribs food, no fou fou here. Start off by trying a large bowl ( that call it a salad – but no greens here) of brown PUY lentils seasoned with vinegar, a large amount of creamy goosefat, nice chopped thin onions and chunks of very thin Auvergne bacon all mixed together – served warmed and you spoon as much as you wish on your plate. Maybe slices of Bon de coche de la Chataigneraie, one of the world’s finest hams. Rubbed with salt and aged for 6 months in a smokehouse over a chestnut-wood fire.
For your main, I like the Guinea Fowl stuffed with cabbage, but just a stuffed cabbage is also a star here. One of the best dishes here is the sausage and cabbage served with aligot. Aligot is a staple of the Auvergnat region. It’s a blend of whipped potatoes, young Tomme cheese and garlic and it provides a bit of old-fashioned table side theatre, since the waiter brings it to the table in a thick copper pot and whips it a few times, holding his wooden spoon high so that you can see that is has the surprising texture of molten latex and is it good! Not, make that great! Even if you don’t order it, ask them to bring you a sample, they will.

Talk about comfort food, this is the place.
Located at the North Corner of the centre Pompidou.

The Rebirth Of a Great Paris Hotel - Hotel de Crillon

http://www.crillon.com/ - For Romantic adults only
http://www.crillon.com/#video/children  - For Children Only!
Paris has 6 Grand Dame Hotels and among my favorites is the classic Hotel de Crillon. After a muli million Euro facelift, the hotel is more spectacular than never.

This Place de la Concorde landmark, built at the direction of King Louis XV in 1758, hasn’t lost its ornate air. Flat-screen televisions and high-speed Internet access bring modern touches to suites and salons still filled with gilt, mirrors, and Baccarat crystal, in addition to genuine Aubusson carpets and Wedgwood medallions. . The Bar du Crillon is nothing short of elegant, with its mirrored mosaics, red velvet–covered chairs, and dripping chandeliers. Request a song at the piano, then sit back on a settee and sip a Baccarat cocktail (Grand Marnier, lemon, cranberry, Champagne Rosé).
Better yet, have dinner in the Versailles like dining room, one of, if not the most romantic restaurants in Paris.
......and the location is the best in Paris ( ask me why)
Please contact me for special Protravel rates and amenities at this fabulous hotel.

France's Hidden Coast - Billowy Dunes, Briny Oysters and Easy, Unpretentious Charms

I just returned from a week at Cap Ferret, NO that’s not Cap Ferrat on the French Riviera ( a place of pop legends, Ferraris and Prada shops) but a location on France’s southwest coast, and think of salty Cap Cod than with St-Tropez!

Cap Ferret, a peninsula on France's west coast, is an exclusive summer enclave and differs from its south-coast nemesis, Cap Ferrat, by more than just a vowel and an ocean away.. Cap Ferret is a village des pêcheurs. No yachts, Sean Combs or Ivana Trump here. Instead, you'll find fishing boats and oyster farmers driving around town on forklifts. Small wood houses made from local pine are decorated with blue and white shutters. And when it comes to the social scene, there is no velvet rope: just latch onto the children riding their bicycles down the dirt lane to the beach.
At L'Horizon beach, the waves are decent enough to encourage an enthusiastic surf community. On the bay side, at low tide, people trickle across the sand to pick up shells and inspect the traps. Late afternoons are devoted to fresh oysters with white wine. The bay of Arcachon produces 70% of oyster seedlings in France and 10% of its oysters. Along the shoreline are lots of oyster producer shacks ( Quartier Ostreicole) that offer degustation of their products, it’s a must to do this while you are here. $20.00 for a dozen oysters (3 types), 2 glasses on white wine and 6 large shrimp!

Take the launch boat (30 minutes) across the bay to the town of Arcachon and have a wonderful lunch at one of the many wonderful seafood bistro's that line the beach front.
How has this throwback to summers-gone-by remained intact? Probably because, for years, Cap Ferret had been a hideaway for wealthy families from Bordeaux and Paris. Unless you owned a house, there was no chic way in until nine years ago, when one hotel was open and now there are two, the Cote Sable ( it has its own spa) being the best.
Cap Ferret has retained a carefree sense of summer, (no role playing, no high heels, no makeup, just nice people and wonderful food) something that is hard to find and that money just can't buy.
Its very quiet here, just the place to relax, take long beach walks, read and eat at local bistros and cafes, visit friends, summer backyard BBQ’s and that’s it. A mixture of wildness and quaintness.

Provence - Moustiers-Ste-Marie and Faience Workshop

Moustiers-Ste-Marie is a lovely village, in a gorgeous setting. It's there for tourists, though, so don't expect a "natural" Provencal village. But its still wonderful anyway.

The main theme of Moustiers is to sell the, admittedly beautiful, "faïence" ceramics and the village is packed full of Faïenceries shops.
The village sits astride a rushing mountain stream that divides the two halves with a narrow rocky canyon. The view of this mini-gorge, with small waterfalls down inside and medieval houses above, is beautiful. The sound of the river, and the running fountains all over the village, give Moustiers the feeling of an Alpine village. The village has narrow medieval streets and vaulted passages, and becomes more "natural" when you get up above the ceramics shops.
I recommend during your visit ( its best to stay a few nights here) is to take a private 2 hour ceramic workshop where you will create your own faience plate. It’s great fun!

Just Returned From France - Lots To Tell, But First...

Just west of Bordeaux ( 45 minutes by car) sits the lovely Arcachon Bay. Everytime I find myself in this area, I always make a point to have lunch ( along the beach front) at the Diego Plage L'Ecaillier restaurant.

The bay is known for its oyster production and various local seafood offerings, but one must have, as I always do, the Le Plateau Diego. It's not cheap at Euro 37, but how can any shellfish lover pass it by? Not I!.............. more to come about my trip