Sweet Summer in Paris - I don't have a sweet tooth..but..................

Cakes counter “shopping” at Arnaud Larher (93 Rue de Seine 75006,Paris), 

Hidden Paris - Galerie Vivienne

The gallery was built in 1823 by Marchoux, President of the Chamber of Notaries, at the location of the Vanel de Serrant hotel and the Petits Peres passage. It was based on plans drawn up by the architect Francois Jean Delannoy. Inaugurated in 1826 under the name Marchoux, but soon renamed Vivienne, the gallery took advantage of its unique location. It attracted many visitors with its tailor shops, cobblers, wine shop, restaurant, Jusseaume bookstore, draper, confectioner, print-seller and so on. Located between the Palais Royal, the stock exchange and the Grands Boulevards, the passage enjoyed considerable success until the end of the Second Empire.
Its still there and now houses boutique shops and a cafe and restaurant.

Paris restaurant - touristy, VERY ,of course, ruinous to your pocket book - for sure, you'll have to take out a second mortgage, but its one of the last dining icons left in Paris these days, in fact in all of France..

London food critic, Tim Hayward travels to Paris to visit, Tour d'Argent; the oldest restaurant in Paris, to fulfill a long-held ambition to taste the restaurants famous,(numbered), press duck.  


 Phillipe Noiret and Robert Morley at Tour d'Argent in a scene from 'Who's Killing The Greatest Chefs in Europe'

The Romance of French Cowboys in the wild west of Provence

The Camargue is like its own little country. Once you're a few minutes south of Arles, you enter the atmosphere of the area, with its series of long, level roads criss-crossing the marshes and farmlands. Eagles, hawks and harriers soar in the blue skies and muskrats swim along the little canals, often making unsuccessful attempts to cross the roads. Black bulls and white horses graze in the fields, and lines of horseback riders file into the brush to observe the nature first-hand. Cyclists peddle against the winds, along the roads or off on lanes forbidden to motor vehicles. 

We are able to put together a full day program for you to visit this somewhat unknown area of France.  Here is what you day could look like:

This is a full day experiencing the best of the Camargue, the region known as the Wild West of Provence. You will start with a visit of Arles Roman monuments, others from the Romanesque period, Vincent Van Gogh’s presence, memories of Frederic Mistral... This two-hour tour, on foot, will take you through the historic center of Arles to discover the main monuments of the city, experience its picturesque streets, savor its traditions... You’ll have a two-hour horseback ride or jeep tours where you’ll see the famous white horses and black bulls. Then it will followed by a gourmet picnic served with wine! After lunch, you’ll get to experience a scenic drive where, you’ll get to see plenty of pink flamingoes. The Camargue is a unique area lying between two arms of the Rhône river. Its vast expanses give it a special atmosphere to be found nowhere else. It is paradise for migratory birds, a nesting area for flamingoes, and home to bulls and horses.

Paris Fashion in the 1950's - A new retropective Show in Paris at the Palais Galliera

The 1950s were a decisive period for French haute couture, which had suffered badly in the wake of the 1929 stock market crash and the war and was now reborn and made eternal. The list of names says it all: Jacques Heim, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, Jacques Fath making up the old guard; followed by newcomers Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, Jacques Griffe, Hubert de Givenchy and Pierre Cardin. Paradoxically the dominance of French fashion hinged not only on the prestige of names that spelled luxury, elegance and originality, but also on the profession's willingness to make the revolutionary move into ready-to-wear. In 1954 the 'Couturiers Associés' – Jacques Fath, Robert Piguet, Paquin, Carven, Jean Dessès – founded the first haute couture ready-to-wear licensing company . Drawn from the Palais Galliera collection and sporting the labels of the most famous couturiers as well as others now forgotten (Jean Dessès, Madeleine Vramant, Lola Prusac), the remarkable pieces making up this exhibition – some 100 models and accessories – retrace the evolution of the female form through the decade 1947–1957: from the birth of the New Look to the death of Christian Dior and the advent of Yves Saint Laurent.

PALAIS GALLIERA, CITY OF PARIS FASHION MUSEUM 10 avenue Pierre Ier de Serbie, 75116 Paris

* Paris by Twizy * Are you brave enough, I ask?

If you have been to Paris in the last several months, you may seen the little electric two-passenger cars zooming around Paris? The Twizy is almost like riding a motorcycle with four wheels and a bit of extra protection around you. But not much more! But they’re small and easy to park (sometimes right up on the sidewalk), and now you can rent them from the foot of the Eiffel Tower with pre-loaded GPS tours of Paris to guide you. TwizTours cost €29 for one hour per person (two people minimum) up to €75 per person to have a human guide in a second car leading the way. Note that you need a driver’s license valid for at least three years and a lot of courage!!

What is it, about France? Its about pleasure -that's it in a nutshell

For me, there are two pleasures about France - the art of living and the enjoyment of fine dining.
To me, there is no geography or history, without the appreciation of food, without sensual curiosity. To really get to know a country you need to taste it, smell it, touch it, listen to it, see it. In France, its through the body that you reach understanding - through happiness. Since the dawn of time people have discovered that one of the best ways to achieve happiness is through the understanding of pleasure - enjoying good food and wine is an essential part of this undertaking for anyone wanting to really know this most amazing country.
So for those of you that are fussy about 'I  can't have this and that' or I don't
 like this and that, have restrictive food allergies or have succumbed to the present, 'I need gluten free food 'silliness, is all I can say is that I feel saddened for you, for you'll never really be able to enjoy France, if you can't enjoy and partake in all their food and lifestyle pleasures. 

Sorry Italy - but you are not the best! Of Course, I have always known that...

France stayed ahead of the pack and remained the world’s most visited country in the world, with 84.7 million foreign visitors in 2013, according to a study published Monday. The lure of the country’ s famous monuments, picturesque landscapes, rich history and legendary cuisine and wines ensured that France kept its top spot well ahead of the United States and Spain, which received 69.8 and 60.7 million foreign tourists each.

France's Hidden seaside resorts - One of many...............

At the end of the Corniche des Maures ( a large mountain chain that fronts the sea near St Tropez), the area called Cavalaire ( Ex-president of France Nicholas Sarkozy has his villa nearby) is quite close to, and quite different from St Tropez. The resorts share the same sun, sea and insouciance, but there floats over Cavalaire no air of billionaire exclusivity. Normal people are made to feel welcome, rather than dammed lucky to be allowed in. Cavalaire brandishes  its family welcome label with abandon.
Granted, there is minimal quaintness. If Cavalaire ( population 7000)  was once a fishing village, its now a mainly post-war creation of apartments ( not has ugly as Nice and Cannes) and modern-ish streets. But palms, pines and sea attenuate the effect, there's holiday-time gaiety, the surroundings are soul-stirring-and  appreciation of quaint is, anyway, a sign of age (I am afraid to say so)  Youngsters don't care a fig for old towns and 14th-century chapels. They want activity-and Cavalaire has it.
The best hotel here is the Relais/Chateaux hotel ( on a private beach)  Le Club de Cavaliere & Spa. 
http://www.clubdecavaliere.com/uk/hotel-luxe-lavandou-site-officiel.php

Maurice Chevalier - The Face of France

In 1958, I was 15 years old, I went to see the MGM musical film, "Gigi" and like everyone else that year was captivated by the film and its music.
What really captivated me was the performance of  Maurice Chevalier. He was sophisticated, well dressed, had a smile and personality that filled the the theatre from wall to wall. I said to myself, this is who I wanted to be and all my life I have strived to fulfill that promise to myself and now at age 70 + I can honestly say, its is truly the best of times for me and I can really say and understand "I'm, Glad I'm Not Young Anymore".

 

Bobo Palate, New Trends in Parisian Cuisine with Context Walking tour - Tours for the Intellectually Curious

 One of the best touring companies in Paris and other parts of Europe, is Context Tours. 
http://www.contexttravel.com/
The group size is never more than 6 and the tours are lead by PHDs and master scholars who can also excite your curiosity with passionate narration and guidance. 
They just don't do the 'run of the mill' type of tours, but a varied and interesting look at the city of Paris. 

Here is just an example of one of their tours in Paris concerning new trends in Parisian cuisine.
The quiet side streets of the Haut Marais district, as the upper part of the 3rd arrondissement is known, form the backdrop of one of Paris' most exciting gastronomic districts. A mixture of old fashioned markets and wine bars, along with cutting edge boutiques, hip cafes, and innovative food shops, make the Haut Marais emblematic of what's being called the Parisian Bobo, short for bourgeois-bohemian. During this 2.5-hour walk in the company of a local chef, sommelier or food writer, we will explore the culinary lifestyle of the Bobo and discuss how gastronomic traditions are evolving in Paris today. As we work our way through the area, we will discover it through the perspective of a Bobo. Living in small apartments on these narrow winding streets and with their busy lifestyles, it’s difficult to cook; therefore, they rely more on external shops, cafés and restaurants than inhabitants of other districts. The bourgeois in them wants the highest quality, while the bohemian craves contemporary flair and international originality. Stopping in at “their” shops we will in essence be learning about and gathering the items for a Bobo apéro, or small bites pre-dinner snacks. We may stop in an excellent modern purveyor to pick up some wild salmon or top grade Iberian ham. We will visit one of the hottest chocolate makers to select jewel-like bonbons. We may stop by the city's leading spice and oil boutiques where the city's top chefs acquire their saffron or vanilla. We will also visit the oldest covered market in Paris, Le Marché des Enfants Rouges, established by royal decree in 1615, now mostly filled with trendy ethnic food or organic stands, which will help us understand how traditions endure, though shift and still remain relevant today. We will also see some of the newer restaurants and shops, such as Candelaria with its Mexican tacos and hidden cocktail bar, Nanashi with its modern bento boxes or Popelini with its reinvention of Parisian choux pastry. We will sit down at the end over a glass of wine to sample our wares, coming full circle in our discovery of the Parisian Bobo.

October 214 - A brand new Museum - Louis Vuitton

The Foundation Louis Vuitton will open its doors to the public on Monday, 27 October 2014. The building, designed by architect Frank Gehry, will become a new location in Paris for contemporary French and international artistic creation. The Foundation Louis Vuitton’s mission is to encourage and promote contemporary artistic creation both in France and internationally. The collections and programmes will continue the tradition of artistic and creative movements of the 20th and 21st centuries. The building for the Foundation Louis Vuitton includes exhibition galleries dedicated to the permanent collection, temporary exhibitions and artists’ commissions. It is completed by a flexible auditorium for the presentation of multi-disciplinary performances and events. Its terraces offer unique panoramic views of Paris and the lush greenery of the Jardin d’Acclimatation, the inspiration for Frank Gehry’s architecture of glass and transparency.

August 4th, 1914 - World War 1 begins and decimates the youth of the world............

and...Oh! How this songs sentiment changed quickly as thousands of English youth perished at an astonishing rate...

This Friday late afternoon I wish you a pleasant weekend - enjoy my favorite French singer Mireille MATHIEU

French TV news says that Tipping in Paris cafes is dying out...............

Leaving a tip has long been "the done thing" in restaurants and bars. But today it's a dying tradition at the terrace cafés of Paris. 

 Says a young French waitress, "I've just started my shift but I don't think I'll get more than 10 or 15 euros in tips. It's going down. It seems French café-goers are becoming more and more stingy." A male customer says, "I'll tip when I'm happy with the service. But if I'm not satisfied I won't leave anything." A recent study notes 16 percent of the French public never give a cent more than they have to. That's more than double the number last year, when only seven percent admitted to never leaving a tip. Relying ever more on credit cards, people tend to have less small change in their pockets. And that's just one reason for penny-pinching. "Everyone, or almost everyone is paid a salary. So they're asking themselves, 'Why should I tip a waiter, valet or hairdresser when no one tips me for my work? I just have a salary and that's it," says a second café customer. Tourists are commonly more generous, especially Americans, who are used to waiters relying on tips to make a living, which is not the case in France. Sixty percent of Americans say they dip into their purses to leave a little extra every time they dine out.  H
Howards Note: I still tip a little in cafes and always will. The waitstaff works hard in my opinion

Update - Villa Augusta - The Drome Region - France.................

David Mollicone ( chef and co-owner) last weekend, prepared a 'Risotto de legumes au Parmesan, aux truffes d'été', , in the hotel's garden with beautiful weather, and guests...You should have been here..................maybe you will someday!

A year in Provence? A week in style will do me just fine in Provence..in the Drome to be exact...........

For 50 years the "Relais & Chateaux hotel group has been making dreams come true by staying faithful to the "5 C’s" Courtesy, Charm, Character, Calme & Cuisine. They have always been my go too, for clients visiting anywhere in France. Every hotel is independently owned and must have the 5 ‘Cs to even be considered into the exclusive Relais/Chateaux family.  
You don't have to go to St Tropez or Cannes to get your fix of Provencal chic. Inland from the coastal tourist traps, among pretty villages, wineries, pine forests, lakes, mountains and lavender fields, you’ll find stylish cozy rural retreats with great kitchens. 
This year, I visited once again, the number #1 tourist choice for Americans ( for many, many years), beyond Paris of course, that of ,Provence. 
Most, if not all visitors want to see the Provence area that encompasses ( for tourists) Avignon–to the Luberon Valley and everything in between and I will admit this area has lots to offer. This year I decided to check out the area just north of Avignon; an area of Provence called the Drome. Well, not actually the official part of Provence, its part of the Rhone-Alps region (if you must know) but because it’s so beautiful and so close to Provence, I consider it part of Provence; in my way of thinking. 
For American’s it's rarely visited and yet it offers what Provence must have looked like and felt some 50 years ago; what we in France call La France Profonde ( deep France) – an area holding true to its origins , holding back the face of international mass culture. The Drome retains its charm and peacefulness of rural Provence, with olive groves, lavender fields and vineyards belonging to the Cote du Rhone wine region. Here also you’ll find fruit orchards and black truffles, lots of Medieval villages are scattered throughout the countryside; especially the ‘knock-your-socks’ off medieval village of Grignan is a must to visit. 
On my recent drive from Lyon to the Luberon valley, I decided to exit the major highway, just above the Roman city of Orange and stayed overnight in the village of St Paul-Trois- Chateaux (near Bollene). Located in a charming town of 8000 inhabitants, is the romantic and cozy, Roman style hotel (this area don’t forget was settle by the Romans over 2000 years ago) – Villa Augusta. This hotel and village is a good jumping off place for day trips to see the area comfortably. The hotel is part of the Relais/Chateaux hotel group and is run by its charming owners – David and Priscilla MOLLICONE. 

Priscilla is charming and vivacious and her sunny presence really makes this hotel work, if you want the truth. Both she and David offer their special brand of gentle French hospitality and have genuine enthusiasm for welcoming their guests. The rooms (a few over looking a Roman style pool) are a bit on the contemporary side, but cozy and comfortable. Here at the hotel, you are in the heart of the town and walking from the hotel, you can explore this charming historic village.

If I had at first a minor issue, it was that the hotel is next door to an elementary school and during the day you do hear (not seen though) children making noise while playing in the school yard., BUT on reflection, I must admit, it’s a wonderful sound, because you are hearing the voice of a true French village in all its facets. It’s alive and that is what French village life should be and what you should be looking for. 

As with all Relais/Chateaux hotels/inns, top cuisine is a must and the kitchen of chef MOLLICONE is no an exception, and his food, I will go so far as to say, is exceptional. The dining room is not formal, but laid back and relaxed , as it should be in Provence,(attracting lots of locals, when I ate here and that’s always a good sign anywhere) and the food is as good as you would find at any Michelin starred restaurant in France. The food and presentation is not pretentious (Thank goodness), but is straight forward, well plated (not over the top silly – that kind you’ll find in many French ( and USA) restaurants today) and it has taste! Can I say that again, it has taste! It’s seasoned well and prepared well;(
oh! and don't forget the wine from this most famous vineyard area!) TASTE - something that chefs in the USA don’t seem to have a concept of these days. They should come here and maybe they would  learn a thing or two from this master of the Drome area. ….
so.......stand by for part two, the exploration of the Drome area…………

It took four years and €429 million to complete - New Paris Grande Dame Hotel

…and finally the fabulous Peninsula Hotel will open in Paris next week. She joins the other Paris Grande Dames Hotels ( Bistrol, Meurice, Four Season, Plaza Athenee, Ritz ( still closed) Crillon ( still closed) It’s the Hong Kong-based company’s tenth hotel, joining properties in New York, Chicago, Beverly Hills, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, Tokyo, Bangkok and Manila. The first guests are set to arrive on August 1st. Just steps from the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Elysées, at 19 Avenue Kléber in the elegant 16th arrondissement, The Peninsula Paris sits close to some of the world’s most-famous monuments, museums and luxury shopping. It has 200 rooms including 34 suites, five of which have private rooftop gardens with spectacular views over the city. Rooms begin at Euro 750 a night

At least half of Paris restaurants are closed on Sunday...so here is an option as where to eat........

Les Cocottes 
Though the breezy service and long counter are reminiscent of an American diner; they are not slinging hash at Christian Constant’s Les Cocottes. An easy, no-reservations choice in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. 135 rue St. Dominique, 75007 metro: Ecole Militaire (8) Hours: Open every day  

The hearty food served in Staub casseroles is worth the wait.

'In Flanders Fields the Poppies Blow' -2014 Starts the Rememberance of World War 1 in France and Elsewhere

"In Flanders fields the poppies blow Between the crosses, row on row, That mark our place; and in the sky The larks, still bravely singing, fly Scarce heard amid the guns below."

Starting this August and going through 2018, France and other neighboring countries will have ceremonies and special tours to remember the horror and sorrow of World War 1.

Cave Paintings of the Ardeche - to Open to the Public after 36,000 years....

Discovered in 1994 by speleologists - the Chauvet cave in the Ardèche region ( Just north of Avignon/Provence) of France contains the world's oldest known cave paintings, dating back 36,000 years. 

The replica site will open its doors to the public at the end of 2014, after 30 months of work. The original cave are depicts Lion, cave bear, snow panther, mammoth, white rhinoceros, megaceros, bison, aurochs, ibex, stag… Like its sister site in the Dordogne, (Lascaux caves) the original cave has been closed to visitors, but also like its sister cave, Lascaux, a replica is being built next door. In order to enable the public to enjoy the treasures of the Chauvet cave, a perfect replica is currently being designed. It will be the biggest perfect replica of a prehistoric site in Europe.. Set within a vast wooded area covering 29 hectares, the site will include (alongside the replica cave) a discovery centre and a permanent exhibition dedicated to the Aurignacians and wall art, as well as five sheltered interpretation stations, a temporary exhibition space, an educational area for young people, an events centre, etc. All five of the visitor's senses will be stimulated during this amazing journey back through time: the coolness, humidity, silence, darkness as well as the subtle mineral aroma will help fully immerse the public in the cave.

Quick Tips - Luxury at a bargain - albeit a bit used.......................

Reciproque on Rue du Pompe is the largest consignment store in Paris where you can find gently worn Chanel, Hermes, Lanvin and labels galore at a fraction of the cost.

Is France Still Good?...You Bet……

……… Yes, I will admit, since visiting France for over 20 years plus, I have gone native. 

Like the French I so admire, I do not live to work, but work to live and live well! The Protestant work ethic has been refused a work permit and they are proud of it. One of the things I love about this country is something called ‘le pont’ which means that if a national holiday fall in the middle of the week, French workers will take off enough days before and after it to extend it all the way to the nearest weekend. None of this American rubbish of two weeks vacation a year. From Bastille Day (July 14th until September), the French head off for 5 weeks of well earned eating, drinking, romancing and dozing. Sure there are the less fortunate in France who cannot afford such refined pleasures and maybe are seething about the inequalities of Gallic society – but let’s not spoil my story’. 
You say, ah! what a bunch of lazy, unproductive people, but the fact remains the French have chosen such a civilized, civilizing state over the barbarities of the US. In fact their transportation system is better than ours, their care for their citizens is far better and shall I go on? The French ( and that has been their draw for over hundreds of years to outsiders) is their pursuit of sensual pleasure. True the “pursuit of happiness’ is in our constitution, but the French don’t have to be reminded by their constitution that they have a right to do so. That cultivation of pleasure, so exotic to us and so contrary to how we live in our ill-dressed, ill-groomed, fast-food fetishising, sexually incompetent, health faddism culture is why so many foreigners are seduced by France. France is a country that has seduced me and I love it. Unlike America, where coffee is not savored at pavement tables while making sexy chit chat as it should be, NO, but sucked from drink-through lids as you race from one job to another, possibly shoving a horribly cooked burger down as you do so. I believe France exists as it does now (even with all their problems) as an inspiration for us as to how we might live better( of course to be truthful,) we are temperamentally incapable of doing so.

Brasserie Lipp - A Paris tradition with strict customs and traditions..most Americans are intimidated by it..but..

Here is your chance to get a look at this most famous Brasserie without being intimidated. Most non regulars when they enter , I am sure, tend to say 'Is this all?" But don't be fooled, its the subtle magic of this place that will win over your heart and stomach.
 As the video states, you need to eat here often to become a regular and get the proper table...Mine is always in "paradise', number twenty... something...AH! can't give it away. 
But enjoy the video and here is your chance to see this famous eatery up close. It ain't America and I am thankful for that...........I don't mean to be snobby, but this is my home away from home for good, honest  French brasserie food! and the joy of being among the French/Parisian people.

Cole Porter's Paris - Let's Misbehave.................

If you love the twenties/thirties era ( and I do..its where I should have been alive, if truth be known) it's music and its style, you can still find little reminders throughout Paris - its buildings, cafes and some restaurants and now there is a museum dedicated to the 1930's Paris located in Boulogne-Billancourt, a close suburb of Paris.  The Le Musee des Annees 30 ( the museum of the 30's)  of the 1930'a.
This area in the 1930's was one of the most dynamic towns in France. It was here just at the edge of the city, that film-makers Gance, Carne and Renoir and the architects Le Corbusier, Mallet and Tony Garnier came to live and work.
The museums has over 800 works of art. 
Open Tuesday to Sunday from 11am to 5:45pm. Le Musee des Annees 30.

Of course Cole Porter loved Paris and lived there off and on all his life and the 1930's was his greatest period of work.
So, let Cole Porter serenade you with 'Anything Goes".

France Celebrates Bastille Day - 2014

http://www.france24.com/en/20140714-france-commemorates-bastille-day-world-war-centenary/
Click on the above and paste into your browser to view today's celebration

Which Era Would have You Most Liked to Have Lived in?

This question was posed to me by a friend who is a journalist, after re-watching for the 10th time( with great delight) Woody Allen's 'Midnight in Paris", the other evening.
As an unabashed Francophile, my answer was quick and decisive..'Paris in the 1920's', I responded.   

Ah! this was the time to be in  the city of lights...legendary cafes, haunts of the likes of Hemingway, Picasso and Henry Miller. The place, Montparnasse home to four the most famous cafes in all of Paris - Le Dome, La Coupole, Closerie des Lilas and le Select. Today all are still there, not much has changed since 1925, well maybe apart from the prices. Its still worth grabbing a table outside on the terrace and yes, there will be plenty of tourists, but you'll also be rewarded with a delightfully cliched, but authentic, slice of Left Bank Life, with students earnestly discussing philosophy, businessmen holding an impromptu meeting or elegant fashionistas taking a break from shopping and of course myself, sitting outside at le Select,having a cafe creme in the early morning and watching the city wake up and then later walking a few doors down to La Coupole and having 2 dozen oysters with a bottle of flinty Sancerre. 

Paris Bistros - Low Cost Prix-Fixe Menu's of High Quality

In the last couple of years, I have noticed a tend among many well-known  bistros and even better well known restaurants of providing a prix fixe menu of high quality ranging from Euro 25 to Euro 39 per person.

Its about time, I say!

Alain Ducasse, a few years ago took over the failing, but famous bistro, Allard ( situated in the 6e) founded in 1932 and has turned it around and yet has kept the original atmosphere and cuisine which is influenced by the richness of France's regional heritage. You'll still find the famous dishes that made this place famous - Snails in their shells, traditional frog legs and Duck with Olives.

 Click on the following to see their special summer menu................
www.restaurant-allard.fr

No Wine Please - We are French - Sacre Blue!!

The long-held tradition in France of having a glass of wine over lunch at the staff canteen may become a thing of the past - for some workers at least - after a recent government decree allowing employers to outlaw wine at the office. Just to let you know, that alcohol in French working life is actually mandated by law. 
It was bad enough when Jimmy Carter banded the three-martini lunch and now we have this.

Is nothing sacred anymore?

An Antidote to the Eiffel Tower Lines

With over 32,000 people visiting the 'Iron Lady' a day and pre-advance tickets sold out for months on months, I can suggest the following options for a view without a queue within Paris.
1) Arc de Triomphe - 15 stories and 284 steps up of the grand perspective down the Champs-Elysees through the Tuileries gardens tot eh Louvre and in the other direction to the Grand Arche de la Defense, but above all the craziness of the hundreds of car milling about below.
2) Centre Pompidou - a fabulous view not so much for its height as the way the city unfolds around you as you go up the sequence of escalators.
3) Towers of Notre Dame - You often have to queue here too, but nothing like as long as for the Eiffel Tower. A steep, narrow climb of 240 steps inside the north tower, across the gallery on the west front with the bonus of gargoyles and chimeras and a second shorter climb ( 147 steps) up the south tower onto the roof for a view that places you right in the very center of Paris
4) Tour Montparnasse - The ugliest building in Paris ( built in the 1970s') but here you take a lift ( 38 seconds) up to the 56th floor viewing lounge with interactive panels and a cafe,with stairs up to the 59th floor outdoor viewing deck. Lower than the Eiffel tower, but more central and with the bonus of a view of the Eiffel Tower.