Self-drive French canal boats - the most magical experiences one can find in France

From the classic children's ( and adults novel) 'The Wind in the Willows' comes one of my favorite lines
'What the Water Rat said to the Mole
'Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing - absolutely nothing- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats' 

Of the thousand and one adventures and pleasures, I've experienced over the last 50 years in visiting France, nothing can compare with the experience of motoring on the many French canals in a self-drive boat. It still is one of the most magical things one can do in visiting France. 
Motoring ( a chanced to unwind) at 4 mile per hour, in one of the many delightful canals that crisscross France ( I must admit that the Nivernais canal in Burgundy is my all time favorite), past stately chateaux, colorful gardens, flourishing vineyards, medieval villages and larger roman towns create an idyllic landscape that is breathtaking at every turn.  

The company to use in France and elsewhere in Europe is LeBoat.
Here you can be the captain of your own boat, no licence or experience is required. It's that simple! You come aboard and they will show you everything you need to know during a briefing and demonstration. Then you are off to enjoying your boating vacation. It's like driving a car, but much easier and more fun and relaxing. 

There is a marvelous BBC series on just the kind of thing I'm talking about called 'Great Canal Journey's  with the actors Timothy West and his wife Prunella Scales ( the names don't ring a bell? ah! but when you see them, you'll certainly recognize them). Motor all around Great Britain, but the attached is their motoring on the French Canal Nivernais and its glorious, just glorious. 

Glamour - an old fashioned word, returns to Paris once again

I for one have always thought I was born too late. I would have much preferred to have been around during the 1920's and into the 1930'as, in Paris and London. 
It seems to me, the younger generation is always chasing what is new as I have always been chasing the past. I thought the old fashioned word, GLAMOUR,  was dead, but in Paris ( and London) I find its not dead, but very much alive, what with hotels like The Bristol, La Reserve, the Plaza Athenee and now the opening or shall I say, the reopening of the Hotel de Crillon.

The historical building,  a landmark dating back to 1758 and used as a private residence until 1909, when it became a hotel., The Hotel de Crillon , it was here that Marie Antoinette had piano lessons and where the cream de la cream of the worlds celebrity stayed , closed in 2013 to undergo a whopping renovation that take 4 years to complete.  I loved the hotel as it was, and was fearful it would lose the glamour of the past, but it was worth the wait, as the no-expense project brought this grande dame of Paris into the present day and I must admit it  to keep its former glory, embracing its legacy while ensuring it met the demands of the modern traveler. 

My biggest fear was that the famous restaurant Les Ambassadeurs ( where I spent a lot of time and celebrations) would be ruined when they decided to turn it into a bar, but I was wrong, the bar is the kind you always imagined you'd find in Paris wit its velvet seats, slick cocktail list and its blowdried-to-perfection clientele. The rooms well? just a dream now - powder-grey, light and soft with giant beds. Perfect!
I can say, there really is no where else quite like the Hotel de Crillon.

An old-school apothecary in Paris - Coming to Paris for this shop alone is worth the trip

Founded in 1803, Officine Universelle Buly ( in the Left bank 6e) is filled with extravagant yet affordable beauty products. Everything you buy-their signature pommade hand cream, handmade soaps, dried peony for the bathtub - look and smells incredible. 
They even make toothpaste in interesting scents like mint, coriander and cucumber.

Each item is exquisitely packaged and can be gift wrapped and personalized with decorative hand-written calligraphy free of charge.
Just walking in the door is a treat in itself. 

The Esterel - An unknown area for tourists who visit the French Riviera

Between Cannes and St Raphael lays the mass of Esterel. It's a 280 million years old volcanic mass of the most glorious red earth falling down the Mediterranean sea. The contrast between the flamboyant red rocks and the indigo blue of the sea is breathtaking!!

It is a beautiful area, preserved from the concrete of Nice and Cannes coastline; many miles ( of kilometers) of footpaths and nature trails with majestic panoramas.  Its good for gentle strolls  and robust hikes. 

My favorite time is late spring or early summer when the scent of the marquis is intense, the smell of the fragrant bushes of citrus mixes with the rosemary and the pines. All in all its a divine landscape. 

An Italian restaurant which almost makes you forget that you are in Paris...well almost

My 'hip' Paris sources tell me that the new Italian restaurant ( in the Left Bank 7th) is the place that is the place to be and be seen during fashion week.
                                       PIERO TT

Paris celebrity chef, Pierre GAGNAIRE pays tribute to the best specialties of the Italian boot, with on the menu, a melting burrata and pretty plates of charcuterie...fish carpaccios( langoustines, Saint-Jacques, blue fin tuna...)but also and especially an anthology of fresh pasta..all led by a cheerful team ( they must be Italian) in this WOW Milanese-style decor. 

Paris - oh my, Not another museum we have to visit? No, try the gardens of the Rodin museum instead for a change of pace

For those either traveling on a budget or just wanting to get away from the crush of  tourists and the hot summer sun into a sanctuary of peace and calm, try the gardens at the Rodin museum.

Just 2 euro's lets you enter the wonderful gardens, complete with a lovely fountain, many famous sculptures ( of the master) and best yet, shaded copses furnished with wooden lounges on which to relax with a book or even a picnic lunch.

It's also a great photo opportunity to see  the golden dome of 'les Invalides' and the Eiffel Tower

High on the Hog: Too fat and too slow to grow - Black Pork

Eating my way through France has always been the very top of my list when visiting France.

One of the many, many pleasures that France beholds in the way of foods, is my love of charcuterie (cured meats like bacon, ham, pate and sausages).

The Noir de Bigorre pig ( Black pig) having been around since Roman times; almost disappeared, but in 1981, it was saved and raised to come back in numbers and today is considered the worlds best ham ( Sorry, Spain).

Sold in thousands of shops within France and acclaimed and proclaimed by France’s famous chefs, next time you are in France, you must taste some.

The hidden area of Normandy - The Cotentin

One of my favorite areas of Normandy is unknown by most tourists, because it takes time to see it properly. 

The Cotentin peninsula is land of wildness, lulled by the wind and sea, a land of hidden treasures. Its a great destination for those wishing to charge up their batteries and awaken the senses.

Food in France today - what';s wrong with this photo?

As you know, I 'm crazy about France, especially the food, but as of late, the cuisine of my adopted country is becoming silly.

Are you kidding? Somebody call a 'cop'

Now, this is eating at its best, Duck confit with lentils

Are the Paris traditional bistros dying out - yes, but...

This is the kind of food I travel to France/Paris for for the last 40 years and yes, many are dying out, but thankfully, some still survive.
Since the1880's, Josphine Chez Dumonet has been serving the Paris perennial  favorites of old fashioned dishes like boeuf bourguignon, duck confit , gigot d'agneau, to name a few and yes, some of the patrons might look like they were here for the grand opening. 

It's a true French bistro you've always imagined right down to the communal pot of pickled herring, the gruff waiters and a red gingham toilet.
The serving sizes are very large, so prepare to come with a large appetite. 

Be sure to save room for the mean Grand Marnier souffle ( as big as your head)

The Bistro is really known for its Boeuf Bourguignon

The English and French have always been at 'war' My thought for today

"The French are a logical people  which is one reason the English dislike them so intensely. The other reason is that they own France, a country which we have always judged to be much too good for them'
           ~ Robert Morley

Sweet Sauternes and fine dining, ah life’s simple pleasures now are yours at Bordeaux’ Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey

There is no way more memorable in finishing a meal than with a glass of Chateau d’Yquem ( with foie gras, of course). For sure its rare deliciousness and relative scarcity make it punishingly expensive. But don’t be dismayed, for another choice in a great Sauternes that won’t break the bank is Chateau Lafurie-Peyraguey.

The chairman of the Lalique group (and oenophile) has opened a new hotel and restaurant 32 miles south of the city of Bordeaux, in the heart of the Sauternes country, the 400 year old, honey-colored stone façade  hotel has been redone ( with 13 rooms and suites) and is welcoming guests who enjoy fine wines and food in an setting surrounded by some of the world’s best known vineyards.

 Can life get any better than this?

Boat cuisine: super chef Ducasse take to the water

DUCASSE SUR SEINE - Cruises in Paris from DUCASSE Paris on Vimeo.

Alain Ducasse who has won a total of 21 Michelin stars – more than any chef alive-is now dishing up lobster and duck foie gras aboard an elegant electric boat on the river Seine.

For lunch and dinner, the cuisine cruise will feature one and a half hour loop of the Seine, past monuments including the Louvre and Notre Dame Cathedral.

The menu will be a celebration of the seasons and local products. Less sugar, salt and fat to be in sync with a society that’s changing.

Bike touring in Normandy? - Biking??? BUT before you say anything...hold on...

Like you, I assume, I dislike biking or exercise of any kind, but this is different, because you ride without any difficulty thanks to electric bikes.

Whether it be Omaha Beach  and D Day sites or the stunning site of Mont Saint-Michel or the back country of Norman cheese and Calvados, I can now offer you an idyllic bike tour ( just hit the electric button and the bike does all the peddling)  and its a day to discover local specialties and tastings of this marvelous region with routes taking alternative roads and bucolic paths, between genuine countryside and seaside all leading you to must-seen places in Normandy.

A craving for Chocolate in Paris – A must is the shop in the 6e, Debauve et Gallais

It is the former shop of Marie Antoinette’s royal pharmacist.

Before the French Revolution, Mr. Debauve created a series of medicinal chocolates for the Queen and her court at Versailles. They were called pistoles and they can still be purchased here ( of course minus the medicine).

Brittany - The largest concentration of lighthouses in the world

Brittany is my all-time favorite region of France.

Sarlat, the Dordogne - unspoiled France Discovery

Carre-du-Palais - a new place in Provence (Avignon) to enjoy the local areas food and wine

Finally, the renovation of the former Banque de France building has given new life as the Carre-du-Palais, a long delayed showcase for Rhone and Provence wines and food, it includes a wine bar, restaurant, wine school and much more...

Honfleur - just 2 hours away from Paris

Discover Honfleur and its area, between the cost (Côte Fleurie), the countryside and the meanders of the River Seine.
Step into the medieval town, travel along our hiking trails and enjoy the seaside resort.
Authenticity, escape, nature and let go…
Follow us on a journey in Estuary land !!!

Granville, Normandy - The Monaco **of the North

Granville ( on the Normandy coast) is an old pirate town, with stunning views of the bay of Mont-Saint-Michel, is a wonderful resort area of an array of  quaint fishing ports, beaches, enchanting alleyways and the home of the late French designer, Christian Dior.

** Like Monaco, it sits on a rocky bluff.

In Austria - a new dining discovery

Having just returned from my three-country sojourn ( Austria, Germany, Hungary) , even after over 50 years of traveling, there is always something new to learn. In this case, it was in Linz, Austria at the restaurant, Keintzel.

At this cozy Wirtshaus, I had wildschein ( wild boar) with red cabbage ; it was out of this world.

When dessert came, as I always do, I ordered a double espresso and the restaurant owner came over and said, its tradition in this area of Austria to also have a small glass of Schnapps along with your coffee.. I know ( Schnapps) it’s like the French eau de vie and so I asked what fruit flavors do you have and he said, ‘let me give something that is only found in this area, its called Zirben Schnapps. ‘

He presented me with a tall thin glass with a red colored Schnapps and the aroma and taste, to me was of something like the smell of a pine forest.

In fact, to my surprise, it was, it’s a high-alpine pine cone flavor that united a fine sweetness and a lightly tangy heart taste. It’s I’m told a classic among herbal spirits

It was a great discovery of not only this Schnapps, but of having Schnapps along with your coffee.

I love Art Nouveau and its founder, Alphonse Mucha

While he is famous for his posters, Mucha was a versatile artist: painter, sculptor, photographer, decorator and a valued teacher. 
Now in Paris until the end of January, the musee du Luxembourg is highlighting his work. 

Paris – A jam shop you must visit!

La Chambre aux Confitures (fruit preserves) is located on the fabulous food street of rue Montorgueil. The best thing of all here, is that you can taste all the jams before you buy.  

The walls are filled with the flavors of hundreds of their handmade creations. Spoons and tester jars await for you as long as you have room in your stomach to spare. 

All the fruit is sourced from hand picked French farms. They focus on using a high percentage of fruit so you taste the ingredients first, not the sugar.

My favorite, far and away is the Framboise Royale ( raspberry and Champagne, need I say more?)

16th Arrondissement – no tourists to speak of and glorious facades of Hector Guimard ( Art Nouveau) – My favorites of arrondismments of Paris

A new gem is opening in Paris’ 16^th arrondiseement. Shrouded in mystery, Cravan quietly opened its doors on rue Jean de la Fontaine. 

This under-the-radar eatery ( a café, but really a cocktail bistro) with décor to die for – marble counters, stained glass period windows, old-fashioned mirrors and the food is downhome French.

                          The work of Hector Guimard

Germany - A search for traditional food..Munich

Hanxbauer is an old Munich restaurant housed in a historical building, the Scholastikahaus which goes back to the 14th Century. Traditional food lovers, worldwide come here to sample their famous pork knuckles.  

Their delicately seasoned pork knuckles are marinated for 24 hours in a secret salt-herb mixture before they are grilled on a beach wood charcoal grill.
It has a unique taste, crispy crust and delicate meat that lives up to its promise.

For any foodie, this is must...

A bit of heaven, just 20 minutes south of the city of Bordeaux

Vienna good eats – Yes, I’ve broaden my horizons and have just returned from Austria and Germany

One of the many dining joys of Austria is having (and discovering) the classic dish of Viennese cuisine of Tafelspitz. It’s basically boiled beef in broth served with a mix of apples and horseradish, but before you start to wrinkle your nose, its one of the most satisfying and delightful dishes I have tasted in years. In fact, I have become a huge fan of this dish. It was said that Franz Joseph, Emperor of Austria was a great lover of that dish and it was said that his table was never without a fine piece of Tafelspitz.

During the high of Austrian power, it was said that there was at least 30 different kinds of cuts of beef you could choose used in the dish.

When you are served this ultimate ‘comfort food’ there is an elaborate ritual one must adhere to.

A shinny copper pot is placed on the table with the side dishes. First of all, your served (from the copper pot) the clear consommé ( after a cup or two) , during which you scoop out the marrow from the bones soaking in the pot on to toast points.

The you are served the meal; so tender that it falls of the bone.

I must say, that words of ordinary prose have generally been inadequate to express the delights of this dish.  

To say that you have visited Vienna and have never tasted this dish is to say, you never really visited the city.

Where is the life that late I led – Memories of the Formidable M. Point

I shall never forget my first lunch at Fernand Point’s restaurant de la Pyramide in Vienne (just outside Lyon)

In 1953, I was taken to eat in what was then (and I think still) was the finest restaurant in France, run by the formidable Monsieur Point. I was 10 at the time and it was very unusual that someone my age would be eating at a 3 star Michelin restaurant; but this was a special occasion and I was well aware of it.

If you don’t know, M. Point was one of the greatest chefs and restaurateurs/food innovators in France and trained the likes of Paul Bocuse and the Troisgros bothers among others.

Some of the items we were served were Pate chaud de Caneton au Chambertin, mousse de Truites and perdreaux casserole and the sauces, oh! The sauces…

Unfortunately, French chefs no longer cook like this nowadays, sad, oh so sad.

But what I most remember from that extraordinary lunch was the humor of this large and gruff looking man (who turned out to be very kind to me) and something he said at the end of our meal and something I have never forgotten and have always carried with me in my travels and eating worldwide.

‘That anybody should come to my restaurant just to eat, instead of to taste, enjoy, appreciate and dream’.

The Secret to uncovering the soul of the world’s great cities

If I had to give advice to someone who has never been to Paris ( or for that matter of fact; any of the world’s great cities)  on how to best enjoy it as a tourist ( and lets face it first time or the 200th time ; me in Paris, we are all really tourists) One could certainly rattle off the sites and landmarks of which the cities are known for, but no, what one is seeking ( maybe not really saying it) is they want to spend the life of a local, absorbing the soul of the city.

What it would be like to truly reside there and perhaps unsurprisingly, pastimes that revolve around eating and drinking prove particularly popular.

In Paris, the answer to me and most locals is: Cafes.

Nowhere is better for soaking up Parisian atmosphere, order a café crème or a glass of red wine and settle in for some people watching. 

Whether it be the Place de la Contrescarpe in the Latin Quarter, Place des Vosges in the Marais or pulling up a chair on one of the many pavement-side terraces that line Canal Saint-Martin, this is where you’ll experience Parisian life.

Nuf said!!