Friday, March 29, 2019

Tally-Ho, I'm off to France for 3 weeks...

I'm off to France!!!

more specific, I'm off to drive into the very heart of the country, the Auvergne, an area for a long time kept apart from the rest of the country by its mountains, forests and wild countryside. Today even still, it remains a region still largely untouched.

Tuesday, March 26, 2019

The only shop of its kind in Paris - only devoted entirely to ham

Caractere de Cochon



Found in the Marias, this closet-like space is filled with every kind of cooked and cured hams from various countries and just about every region in France with a variety of pates, terrines and antipasti and sausages for good measure.
For lunch have them make you up a traditional jambon beurre ( ham and butter) sandwich with your pick of hams.

Paris Bistros of old...


If you want to drop into a time capsule ( I do every time I’m in France) and experience classic French/Parisian cuisine, experience the 1920’s and 30’s, then I have a long list for you to try.

A favorite of mine is Benoit. A few years ago, the family ( the kids that is) that ran it wanted to walk away and luckily, Alain Ducasse took it over, updated the menu a bit, but keep the traditional décor ( that I remember as a kid in the 1950’s)  and its now better than ever.
French food is fussy and I mean that in the best possible way – no one does fuss better than the Gauls. And no one does the white-tablecloth ( a must in my book) bistro cuisine quite like BENOIT.

In this culinary moment, when chefs look like bikers and the maître d's’ look like farmers, it feels subversive, almost rebellious, to sit down in this dressy room and gorge yourself into food coma on garlicky escargots, sausage en brioche, impossible-to- finish cassoulet, crayfish soup (Just the best!)  and tarte Tatin served with cream so thick the waiter has to spoon it up with both hands. Sure its rich, but this is Paris!! You’re not here for the wheatgrass juice.


The late chef, Paul Bocuse was once asked by a customer, why don’t you serve more healthy food and his response was ‘ Madam, I run a restaurant, not a hospital’.




Monday, March 25, 2019

A romantic spot in Paris

Being an unabashed romantic,. I am always looking for spots  that just ooze with romance.

On La Cite ( the island in the middle of the Seine - Home of Notre- Dame) is a spot that juts out into the Seine, where you'll find a gorgeous willow tree and a great spot to sit under the willow wand look down the Seine.




   

Thursday, March 21, 2019

Cafe etiquette - One thing that is likely to get you a scolding in France

Cafe sitting is one of the best things to do in France, but here is something to remember when doing so...

Sitting at a manger ( eating placement) table  instead of a boire ( drinking ) table at a cafe when all you wanted was a coffee.
Will get you a scolding for sure by the staff...

So, before you sit down, if you only want coffee look for a table that has NO flatware on it.          
                                                NO! NON!


YES, OUI!



Wednesday, March 20, 2019

Manet, Degas, Renoir,Monet,Cezanne,Gauguin, Van Gogh...Oh My!

In Paris until July, you can see one of the most grandiose collections of Impressionist masters, from one of the most prestigious private collections in the world.

The Art collection of Emil Buhrle ( the Swiss industrialist) is being shown at the Left Bank Musee Mailllol, in the 7th arrondissement of Paris.

60 of the best of 600 objects of this collector, range from Impressionism to Fauvism passing Cubism and the Nabis will arouse desires in any one who these them.


I have organized my ENTIRE life NOT BEING around CHILDREN, but…



Although the French do love children, there are rules of conduct about where to take them and out to dine.

In my 50 plus years of travel to France, you rarely see children in restaurants; unless it’s a McDonalds type.

French restaurants (especially Paris) don’t have a reputation for being very child friendly. You just don’t see children eating out in Paris and France in general.  But if you must, here are some things you need to know.

Choose Wisely: You must pick a kind of place where kids are welcomed. Casual spots like cafes, some bistros (not many) or non-French places; like pizza or Chinese food are good choices. Funny but Asian restaurants are the few places you’ll see kids eating.

Eat Early: French people are creatures of habit – they like to eat at the same times (that is all over France). From 12 noon to 230pm for lunch and from 8:00pm to 10:30pm for dinner. Again, most regular restaurants in the evening don’t open until 7:30pm. Paris restaurants keep very rigid hours, so if you eat outside those times above, look for places that have ‘service continu’ continuous dining – usually a café, but be warned, the best food in Paris Is not found in these places.

Don’t expect kid accoutrements: Like high chairs, crayons, kids menu, whatever. Yes, restaurants for families do exist, but chain restaurants.
Don’t just show up with a stroller expecting to be seated. If a restaurant is reluctant to welcome kids, it’s almost always a space issue ( if you have a stroller). Real estate is expensive, most restaurants are tiny. If a restaurant sees you coming with a stroller, expect to be not seated.

The Bottom Line: Dining out in Paris with young children is NOT COMMON


The most important word in the French language

Perhaps the first word you are ever taught in French is BONJOUR. but what they don't tell you is that bonjour isn't just a greeting, it's actually the most important word in the French language and if you use it correctly and frequently it will make life so much more pleasant for you in France.



It's likely to also help change that stereotype ( still active today) you had of impolite French people. 

You can never overdo it with Bonjour, when you think you've said it too much, you're probably saying it just enough. 


Tuesday, March 19, 2019

Is 'real' French cheese in danger?

Every region of France has its own particular cheeses. Back in time of General de Gaulle, France had over 246 cheeses - and today that list has expanded.


Many of the top cheeses in France that are considered authentic are given the highly-prized protected Designation of Origin label, this means it was made with raw cows milk, but today, in France, commercial cheeses bearing names like Camembert are made with pasteurized cows milk, may be given a new special label.. The purists ( like myself) yell outrage! and say this decision jeopardizes the future of real raw milk cheeses.

You'll never taste true French raw milk cheeses in the USA, its not allowed to be imported. You'll only find then in France, but now also in France, you'll find mass-produced bland-tasting, pasteurized versions of cheeses. 
When in France, try ( at the local French cheese shops) the real taste of a raw milk cheese and you'll never go back to the bland commercial stuff.



Friday, March 15, 2019

France is full of rules and that's what makes life so livable here...


Rule:
You can not 'have it your way' when it comes to food in France
The Burger King motto does not fly outside of the US. So don't, please don't bring your American mentality to the table in France.

Eat the food on the menu as it is prepared or don't order it. There is' no mayo on the side'. 'I want fries instead of rice' options. Respect how the food is prepared and served. If you have food allergies or other restrictions ( It seems to me these days, its every American), try to do some planning ahead of time, although I can tell you are going to have a rough time in France. 

Wednesday, March 6, 2019

At the Fabulous Paris department store - Galleries Lafeyette Haussmann


You can walk under the magical dome,  high above the central section of the store on a glass walk way...




Dining in the Louvre gardens... Your next Parisian must!

Nestled between the historic walls of the Louvre, the Loulou restaurant has been taken over by new owners ( its attached to one of my favorite museums in Paris, Musee des Arts Decoratifs ). The must here ( if the weather is good) is to sit on the vast terrace in the shade of giant white parasols and have lunch or dinner.

A truly bucolic paradise within this busy city.  No cars or pedestrians passing by your table here, just breathtaking views over the gardens and the historic Louvre buildings. An idyllic location to enjoy the top-flights Italian-Mediterranean  cuisine. 
Hours - Noon to 3pm and 7:30pm to 11pm.



Monday, March 4, 2019

You say, You want a hamburger while in Paris? - Are you mad? Well maybe not...



The French, if you must know, are mad about American Hamburgers and as of late, the Hamburger has made it into the food scene in Paris, so forget MacDonald's; there are now scores of wonderful Parisian hamburger shops and the best of them is Big Fernand. 



 Its a chain of hamburger restaurants  but with a twist a la francaise. Traditional American hamburger and add French cheese ( some raw milk like tomme de savoie, raclette and morbier to name a few) ) prime French beef ( mixed with herbes de provence)  and of course daily baked French bread. 

Thursday, February 28, 2019

Self-drive French canal boats - the most magical experiences one can find in France

From the classic children's ( and adults novel) 'The Wind in the Willows' comes one of my favorite lines
'What the Water Rat said to the Mole
'Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing - absolutely nothing- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats' 



Of the thousand and one adventures and pleasures, I've experienced over the last 50 years in visiting France, nothing can compare with the experience of motoring on the many French canals in a self-drive boat. It still is one of the most magical things one can do in visiting France. 
Motoring ( a chanced to unwind) at 4 mile per hour, in one of the many delightful canals that crisscross France ( I must admit that the Nivernais canal in Burgundy is my all time favorite), past stately chateaux, colorful gardens, flourishing vineyards, medieval villages and larger roman towns create an idyllic landscape that is breathtaking at every turn.  
The company to use in France and elsewhere in Europe is LeBoat.
Here you can be the captain of your own boat, no licence or experience is required. It's that simple! You come aboard and they will show you everything you need to know during a briefing and demonstration. Then you are off to enjoying your boating vacation. It's like driving a car, but much easier and more fun and relaxing. 

There is a marvelous BBC series on just the kind of thing I'm talking about called 'Great Canal Journey's  with the actors Timothy West and his wife Prunella Scales ( the names don't ring a bell? ah! but when you see them, you'll certainly recognize them). Motor all around Great Britain, but the attached is their motoring on the French Canal Nivernais and its glorious, just glorious. 






Wednesday, February 27, 2019

Glamour - an old fashioned word, returns to Paris once again

I for one have always thought I was born too late. I would have much preferred to have been around during the 1920's and into the 1930'as, in Paris and London. 
It seems to me, the younger generation is always chasing what is new as I have always been chasing the past. I thought the old fashioned word, GLAMOUR,  was dead, but in Paris ( and London) I find its not dead, but very much alive, what with hotels like The Bristol, La Reserve, the Plaza Athenee and now the opening or shall I say, the reopening of the Hotel de Crillon.


The historical building,  a landmark dating back to 1758 and used as a private residence until 1909, when it became a hotel., The Hotel de Crillon , it was here that Marie Antoinette had piano lessons and where the cream de la cream of the worlds celebrity stayed , closed in 2013 to undergo a whopping renovation that take 4 years to complete.  I loved the hotel as it was, and was fearful it would lose the glamour of the past, but it was worth the wait, as the no-expense project brought this grande dame of Paris into the present day and I must admit it  to keep its former glory, embracing its legacy while ensuring it met the demands of the modern traveler. 

My biggest fear was that the famous restaurant Les Ambassadeurs ( where I spent a lot of time and celebrations) would be ruined when they decided to turn it into a bar, but I was wrong, the bar is the kind you always imagined you'd find in Paris wit its velvet seats, slick cocktail list and its blowdried-to-perfection clientele. The rooms well? just a dream now - powder-grey, light and soft with giant beds. Perfect!
I can say, there really is no where else quite like the Hotel de Crillon.

Tuesday, February 26, 2019

An old-school apothecary in Paris - Coming to Paris for this shop alone is worth the trip


Founded in 1803, Officine Universelle Buly ( in the Left bank 6e) is filled with extravagant yet affordable beauty products. Everything you buy-their signature pommade hand cream, handmade soaps, dried peony for the bathtub - look and smells incredible. 
They even make toothpaste in interesting scents like mint, coriander and cucumber.

Each item is exquisitely packaged and can be gift wrapped and personalized with decorative hand-written calligraphy free of charge.
Just walking in the door is a treat in itself. 


The Esterel - An unknown area for tourists who visit the French Riviera

Between Cannes and St Raphael lays the mass of Esterel. It's a 280 million years old volcanic mass of the most glorious red earth falling down the Mediterranean sea. The contrast between the flamboyant red rocks and the indigo blue of the sea is breathtaking!!



It is a beautiful area, preserved from the concrete of Nice and Cannes coastline; many miles ( of kilometers) of footpaths and nature trails with majestic panoramas.  Its good for gentle strolls  and robust hikes. 



My favorite time is late spring or early summer when the scent of the marquis is intense, the smell of the fragrant bushes of citrus mixes with the rosemary and the pines. All in all its a divine landscape. 



Monday, February 25, 2019

An Italian restaurant which almost makes you forget that you are in Paris...well almost

My 'hip' Paris sources tell me that the new Italian restaurant ( in the Left Bank 7th) is the place that is the place to be and be seen during fashion week.
                                       PIERO TT



Paris celebrity chef, Pierre GAGNAIRE pays tribute to the best specialties of the Italian boot, with on the menu, a melting burrata and pretty plates of charcuterie...fish carpaccios( langoustines, Saint-Jacques, blue fin tuna...)but also and especially an anthology of fresh pasta..all led by a cheerful team ( they must be Italian) in this WOW Milanese-style decor. 

Paris - oh my, Not another museum we have to visit? No, try the gardens of the Rodin museum instead for a change of pace

For those either traveling on a budget or just wanting to get away from the crush of  tourists and the hot summer sun into a sanctuary of peace and calm, try the gardens at the Rodin museum.


Just 2 euro's lets you enter the wonderful gardens, complete with a lovely fountain, many famous sculptures ( of the master) and best yet, shaded copses furnished with wooden lounges on which to relax with a book or even a picnic lunch.


It's also a great photo opportunity to see  the golden dome of 'les Invalides' and the Eiffel Tower

Thursday, February 21, 2019

High on the Hog: Too fat and too slow to grow - Black Pork



Eating my way through France has always been the very top of my list when visiting France.

One of the many, many pleasures that France beholds in the way of foods, is my love of charcuterie (cured meats like bacon, ham, pate and sausages).

The Noir de Bigorre pig ( Black pig) having been around since Roman times; almost disappeared, but in 1981, it was saved and raised to come back in numbers and today is considered the worlds best ham ( Sorry, Spain).

Sold in thousands of shops within France and acclaimed and proclaimed by France’s famous chefs, next time you are in France, you must taste some.




Wednesday, February 20, 2019

The hidden area of Normandy - The Cotentin



One of my favorite areas of Normandy is unknown by most tourists, because it takes time to see it properly. 

The Cotentin peninsula is land of wildness, lulled by the wind and sea, a land of hidden treasures. Its a great destination for those wishing to charge up their batteries and awaken the senses.

Food in France today - what';s wrong with this photo?

As you know, I 'm crazy about France, especially the food, but as of late, the cuisine of my adopted country is becoming silly.
Are you kidding? Somebody call a 'cop'
Now, this is eating at its best, Duck confit with lentils

Tuesday, February 19, 2019

Are the Paris traditional bistros dying out - yes, but...

This is the kind of food I travel to France/Paris for for the last 40 years and yes, many are dying out, but thankfully, some still survive.
Since the1880's, Josphine Chez Dumonet has been serving the Paris perennial  favorites of old fashioned dishes like boeuf bourguignon, duck confit , gigot d'agneau, to name a few and yes, some of the patrons might look like they were here for the grand opening. 



It's a true French bistro you've always imagined right down to the communal pot of pickled herring, the gruff waiters and a red gingham toilet.
The serving sizes are very large, so prepare to come with a large appetite. 
Be sure to save room for the mean Grand Marnier souffle ( as big as your head)
The Bistro is really known for its Boeuf Bourguignon



Friday, February 15, 2019

The English and French have always been at 'war' My thought for today

"The French are a logical people  which is one reason the English dislike them so intensely. The other reason is that they own France, a country which we have always judged to be much too good for them'
           ~ Robert Morley

Friday, February 8, 2019

Sweet Sauternes and fine dining, ah life’s simple pleasures now are yours at Bordeaux’ Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey



There is no way more memorable in finishing a meal than with a glass of Chateau d’Yquem ( with foie gras, of course). For sure its rare deliciousness and relative scarcity make it punishingly expensive. But don’t be dismayed, for another choice in a great Sauternes that won’t break the bank is Chateau Lafurie-Peyraguey.


The chairman of the Lalique group (and oenophile) has opened a new hotel and restaurant 32 miles south of the city of Bordeaux, in the heart of the Sauternes country, the 400 year old, honey-colored stone façade  hotel has been redone ( with 13 rooms and suites) and is welcoming guests who enjoy fine wines and food in an setting surrounded by some of the world’s best known vineyards.

 Can life get any better than this?


Thursday, February 7, 2019

Boat cuisine: super chef Ducasse take to the water


DUCASSE SUR SEINE - Cruises in Paris from DUCASSE Paris on Vimeo.


Alain Ducasse who has won a total of 21 Michelin stars – more than any chef alive-is now dishing up lobster and duck foie gras aboard an elegant electric boat on the river Seine.
For lunch and dinner, the cuisine cruise will feature one and a half hour loop of the Seine, past monuments including the Louvre and Notre Dame Cathedral.
The menu will be a celebration of the seasons and local products. Less sugar, salt and fat to be in sync with a society that’s changing.


Tuesday, February 5, 2019

Bike touring in Normandy? - Biking??? BUT before you say anything...hold on...

Like you, I assume, I dislike biking or exercise of any kind, but this is different, because you ride without any difficulty thanks to electric bikes.

Whether it be Omaha Beach  and D Day sites or the stunning site of Mont Saint-Michel or the back country of Norman cheese and Calvados, I can now offer you an idyllic bike tour ( just hit the electric button and the bike does all the peddling)  and its a day to discover local specialties and tastings of this marvelous region with routes taking alternative roads and bucolic paths, between genuine countryside and seaside all leading you to must-seen places in Normandy.