Reims, the city of kings and Champagne - An Easy Day Trip From Paris

A quick 45-minute ride from Paris' Gare de l'Est station via the superfast TGV train, Reims offers many attractions in a relatively compact area easily navigated by foot or, if you must, by taxi. There's the Gothic masterpiece that is the Notre-Dame Cathedral and the more subdued Romanesque Basilica of St. Remi (53, rue Simon), where lies the tomb of said saint, who baptized Clovis, king of Franks. You can visit the Musee de la Reddition (The Surrender Museum, 12, rue Franklin Roosevelt), where the Germans surrendered to Gen. Dwight D. Eisenhower, ending the European phase of World War II, or gaze on the Mars Gate (Place de la Republique), the only remaining gate to what was the Roman city of Durocortorum.
Dine in subtle but unmistakable luxury in the Michelin one-star restaurant Le Millenaire (4-6, rue Bertin — try the langoustines four ways to start) or jovially jostle elbows with locals and visitors (if you hear any English, they're likely British) at fast, affordable neighborhood boites such as Le Lion de Belfort (37, place Drouet d'Erlon — try the Gruyere cheese omelet: deliciously simple). Or Les Crayeres a 3 star Michelin restaurant and chateau in the center of town. I must admit, I always come here and have lunch when I am in Paris. Although very expensive, they now also have a lovely bistro and more affordable prices, either one is highly recommended. And don't forget the Champagne houses —— where you'll be able to tour ancient quarries-turned-wine-cellars and sip some of the bubbly that made Champagne world famous.
Dominating the city skyline is the Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Reims (Our Lady of Reims). Construction began in 1211. Each succeeding century has left a mark for good or ill. The cathedral was nearly destroyed by German bombardment during World War I, and it remains a restoration work in progress.
The cathedral (1, rue Guillaume de Machault) strikes me as being far more imposing than Notre Dame in Paris. The scale seems grander, with the pillars soaring upward to the vaulted ceiling high above. Nor are there the crowds and the lines you have to endure at any of Paris' historic churches.
At the neighboring Palace of Tau (2, place du Cardinal-Lucon), the former home of the archbishops of Reims, you can get a close-up look at some of the statuary removed from cathedral facade because they were too fragile or damaged. The kings of France were crowned in the cathedral, the last being Charles X in 1825. So it's natural the palais would have an exhibition focusing on the kings and their coronations.
The action is centered on the Place Drouet d'Erlon, one of the major downtown streets just minutes from the Reims train station.
Reims is friendly, but remember: English can be sparse, so learn some rudimentary French phrases, practice your pantomime and meet smile with smile; you'll be all set.
Visiting the big names
No visit to Reims at any season would be complete without visiting a Champagne house., a number of big names remain open, such as Pommery, G.H. Mumm and Taittinger. Even if you don't drink Champagne, a visit can be instructive, as the houses themselves and their luxury products reflect the culture and history of France. Just remember to reserve a tour time.
Reims sits on a large deposit of easily carved limestone. Over the millennia, residents have cut tunnels through the rock, building subterranean galleries perfect for aging Champagne. Most tunnel tours offer a quick how-to in making Champagne, complete with display bottles at various stages in the production process.
Domaine Pommery (5, place du General Gouraud) is a short taxi ride from downtown Reims. If the castle-like chateau strikes you as a touch kitschy, you're not far off. Louise Pommery, the brains behind this bubbly operation in the 19th century, had the chateau built to suggest a English manor house to attract traveling Brits.
Tours are offered. Prices start about $16.40. The sprawling complex that is G.H. Mumm & Cie (34, rue du Champs de Mars) looks more like a Hollywood movie studio. The tour comes with movies that tell the Champagne story, and the cellars offer a mini-history of how Champagne making has evolved over the centuries. Cellars are open daily. Admission is about $11.
Taittinger (9, place Saint-Nicaise) has named its cellars for St. Nicaise, a 5th century bishop of Reims who, when he found his head cut off by barbarian invaders, simply went on saying his prayers. The tour leads to a huge Roman quarry. Tours are on weekdays. A tour ticket is about $13.7