French City Pass - See More - Pay Less - Everyone Likes a Bargain

Paris, being the first, offers for many years past, a Museum pass that allows you entrance to over 70 Paris ( in and out of the city) museums. There is also a Paris Visite card that gives you unlimited transport on the Metro and Paris buses.

Now other major cities within France are getting on the bandwagon to do the same. 
Besides Paris - Lyon - Nice - Nantes  -Dijon offer passes that include discounts in the cities sites and transportation. All can be bought at the local tourist offices. 

If you are visiting Normandy and its War Museums - they offer a pass for only 1 Euro ( bought at the first War Museum ) you visit and  then is good for discounts at any of the scores of other War Museums spread out along the Normandy Coast.

D-Day 70 years later - Celebration in Normandy

This year being the 70th anniversary of the invasion of Europe - D Day as it was known, will be a celebration with Heads of State from many countries, including President Obama will be attending. 
There are many sites in the greater D Day area and one, albeit somewhat touristy ( but hey, we are all tourists, no?) is the Arromanches 360 museum. 
Here is a look at what goes on in the museum. 


http://www.arromanches360.com/en/ - here is the site to give you more information.

My Little French Secret – Just Two Miles off The Atlantic Coast of France ( 3 Hours By Train from Paris)

For those you like me; who liked the French films of the 1950’s (Hey, there are still some of us around) where everyone cycles slowly down endless French roads, wearing Breton shirts and smiling Bonjours! ,where rabbits hop around gardens; where children don’t scream and the sound of the lone church bell is the only thing disturbing the piece, then the Ile de Re is a place for you.

Two miles off the Atlantic coast, facing La Rochelle likes a place that time forgot. There isn’t even any sign of electricity cable, they are tastefully buried underground. There is no noon or plastic signs, no billboards’, no bright, garish front doors – this small island oozes taste, class, simplicity and quiet. If New York is a city that never sleeps, Ile de Re is the island that never wakes up.

Here you’ll find an island of whitewashed fishermen’s villages, fine sand breaches, wild hollyhocks, salt marshes and a climate that shares the privilege with the Cote d’Azur as being one of the sunniest regions in France. The vegetation is surprisingly southern, almost Mediterranean, pine trees and palms grow well here.

Although in the summer, 100,000 tourists visit, they have not spoiled Re’s charm and off-season, the island is lived-in but tranquil.

Accommodations range from deluxe to simple inns, the food is spectacular – seafood – fresh galore! And there are even a few vineyards on the island producing quite nice wine.

There are about 10 lovely fishing villages that dot the island. Romantic harbors abound.

But the thing to do here (there are over 60 miles of bike trails – flat! And yes, you can rent bikes here after you settle in) narrow lanes that connect villages, vineyards, wood and beaches. They take you where cars can’t.

The island is also home to many famous French personalities – from the film/theatre world and Politics.

There is NO volleyball nets or lifeguards, no jet-skis, no smoky BBq’s or People selling you slices of pineapples and coconuts – no, its just you and nature and great food and a place to come down, relax and be QUIET!

If you have to ask, Howard, what is there to do? Then please don’t come, for this place is not and never will be for you!

Malmaison - Not As Crowded as Versailles and Just As Beautiful

Those who follow my blog will know that Versailles ( must do once, I suppose) is not my favorite monument in France, for there are many others more beautiful. - Chantilly and Vaux-le-Vicomte come readily to mind. 
I  can add to that group, the Chateau de Maimasion ( just outside Paris) which was the home of Josephine ( yes - that Josephine - Napoleons first wife). The Chateau (with fabulous furniture inside) contains a remarkable panorama of art of the Consular period. The grounds are lovely also. 
http://www.chateau-malmaison.fr/en

For Incurable romantics only – if not, read no further please

 As an unabashed romantic, the restaurant Laperouse on the Left bank has always been a favorite of mine. Sure, maybe time has passed it by, at least by today’s so-called ‘Hot’ Restaurants standards (in my humble opinion) most serve boring cuisine – they in fact have reversed alchemy - this time taking gold and turning into lead. They presented cuisine with over 33 ingredients, they pile food on plates ever higher and higher, they embrace, chemical legerdemain with foams and such– boring, their menus read like Tolstoy’s novel of War and Piece and yet satisfy nothing – in short, if you ask me, those so called ‘new,’hot’ restaurants strike me as silly and in my opinion (and that’s what counts, don’t you know) the cuisine would not stimulate the appetite of a starving boa constrictor.

Have I lost some of you..Good!

Ah! But, since 1766 a ‘knock your socks off’ restaurant with Belle Epoch décor, a restaurant romantic beyond belief and a cuisine that harkens back to the good basics of French cooking is still alive. If you are looking for ‘in’ and ‘hot’ and ‘trendy’, this is not the place for you.

What is very special here, is the salons Prive or private rooms, found off the main dining room. These private rooms were set up for the social and political types of there day for illicit liaisons with the then famous Courtesans of the day. Here lovers ate and loved together and the ladies received their payment in the form of diamonds, who would then in turn ,scratch the mirror alongside the wall to make sure they were not fake diamonds and today...... those scratches still remain.

So, if you are inclined to be romantic, take your lover or even your wife and spend an evening in some one of the 10 romantic rooms ( Les Salons Prives) at the restaurant and don't forget..as the song goes.....'That Diamonds are a girls best friend'.

Bouillabaisse - In the South Of France - Not in Marseilles

Le Mere Germaine restaurant in Villefranche-sur-Mer ( between Nice and Monaco) has been a gourmet landmark since 1938. Its specialty is fish and seafood and its famous Bouillabasse of course. The other famous Bouillabasse restaurant is the 'tony' Tatou; located in Cagnes-sur-Mer. Many people feel that its too snobby and expensive for them ( Snobby to me?, No, but expensive for sure!), so I can recommend le Mere Germaine without hesitation.
http://www.meregermaine.com/en/

Villefranche for movie goers of a certain age, was one location where Cary Grant and Deborah Kerr stopped to see his grandmother in the movie 'An Affair To Remember"..

                     (The Village of Villefranche-sur-Mer)

            OK, so I'm an unabashed romantic, I'll admit it!

Once Upon A Time The Orient Express in Paris

If you happen to be in Paris between now and the 31st of August and wish to relive ( but not have to pay the hefty fee taking the real Orient Express train these days) I can suggest dropping over to the Arab World Institute on the Left bank and visit one of the original early 20th century rail cars of the Orient Express. Here was a time when people aspired to a moment of calm and slowness in their speedy world.
Within the resorted car are snippets of James Bond, Josephine Baker, Agatha Christie and countless other writers and artists. 
Visitors are NOT allowed to sit in the coach, except, after it closes for the day; some Famous French chefs ( included Yannick Alleno) will be serving dinner at Euro 165 per person, if you wish to try that).

All Aboard!!

Air France - Why Fly them?..So Many Reasons...................

A hard look at the truth in Air travel from an old curmudgeon.
Hey! It's my blog and I can say anything I wish! :)

I have flown a lot from Los Angeles to Paris over the past 30 years on not just Air France, but on American  Delta and United Airlines.
One of the pluses of flying into a country on that countries Official carrier is that you get a 'taste of that country' right away while on board. 
I have been flying since the late 1940's and have seen many changes in the airline industry - many good and many bad.
I don't wish to appear sexist, but have you seen American flight attendants lately? Especially on long runs ( the senior women and men get those routes) - 
the American epidemic of Obesity seems to have taken hold of flight attendants, recently on an American carrier to Europe, the flight attendant could barley get down the aisle, she was a 'bit over-weight', have you noticed those American carriers flight attendants appear have have just woken up, they look so unkempt, have you noticed they seem to have the American attitude toward customers that seems combative ( of course clients today can be combative, I'll give you that).
All in All, As Shakespeare once remarked 'Where is the life of late, I lead?".
 So, next time you wish to hearken back to the 'good old days' of flying, try Air France..one thing for sure, the Flight attendants look like they were just hired off the fashion runway.

VIVE LA FRANCE!

My Love of Monaco - Remembering Grace Kelly

<">One of my favorite places, besides France, is the Principality of Monaco. Although I grew up in the 1950's viewing Grace Kelly on the silver screen ( yes! I had a boyhood crush on her, I will admit), when she became Princess Grace of Monaco, that's when I started to fall in love with Monaco. I have happily spent a lot of time there and even thought she is gone, her spirit still lives on in that fabled country.
The Tate Museum in London recently had an exhibition of her life in photos  and here is a short film in honor of her.
Next time you want to visit Monaco/Monte Carlo, please call me.

Good Food in Montmartre? - No Way..But Now...a Resounding YES! LE COQ RICO

Montmartre ( in my humble opinion) has never been known for great food or restaurants..that said, I can know report that Antonie Westermann ( one of my favorite chefs - Droument) has opened a fantastic restaurant( ( open, mind you 7 days a week) whose menu is only based on a single-ingredient - Poultry! meaning - Chicken, guinea fowl ( my favorite always), duck and pigeon and each one comes with its own pedigree and the name of the farmer - how fresh is that? . He uses all parts of those tender birds, including kidneys, hearts , wings and livers ( the stuff you usually toss away at home.)

The restaurant is cozy, bright and modern and you can sit at the counter or in one or two of the small dining rooms.
The Challans farm raised chicken is a wonder
THIS PLACE IS HOT AND RESERVATIONS ARE A MUST. 
Note: Please, please don't be an American and ask for things on the side or cooked without! If so, please don't come!
By the way Le Coq Rico means ---cock-a-doddle-do 
http://www.lecoqrico.com/