Wednesday, October 28, 2015

Les Etanges de Corot Hotel -20 Minutes from Paris and yet 150 years back in time, but not lacking in today’s luxury

In the ville d’Avray is by no means in the deep countryside -- it is a prosperous-looking commuter town -- and the front door of the hotel is smack on the street. But this is deceptive: The place is built on a rise above the water, which in turn is populated by fish and ducks and is ringed by trees and walking paths. With extensive public woodland beyond, there's barely a hint of city life and certainly not a shred of evidence that you're so close to Paris. 

The public areas and ample guest rooms (with bucolic views) are tastefully decorated and very comfortable, with a wonderful touch of sophisticated whimsy: Corridors are hung with lithographs by Walton Ford; at first glance these look like excellent zoological watercolors or prints -- think Audubon -- but on closer examination they turn out to be fantastical, witty and sometimes macabre. On a rainy day, they'd afford hours of pleasure. 
Staff is unfailingly friendly, prompt and helpful. The hotel is operated by members of the Bordeaux-based family that owns the Smith Haut Lafitte vineyards and the Caudalie spa group –( Les Sources de Caudalie my favorite hotel in Bordeaux) , and sure enough there is a charming Caudalie spa one flight down, with calming treatment rooms and a big hydrotherapy pool (but remember: we're on a hill, so the lower level is light and airy, and there are pretty views out its windows). I like the fact that there is little new-age hocus-pocus about the spa, though a tiny dose of this is inevitable. No harm done, though: it's all relaxing and beneficial. 
There are two main restaurants and a bar, plus a café offering plenty of picturesque outdoor seating from April to October; I love the informal Café des Artistes, which offers a nice menu (two courses for €29/$40; three for €35/$48). the wine list is short but very good, drawing in part on the family's Bordeaux holdings, including the delicious Les Hauts de Smith white, which is I also love ( funny because I am not a white wine fan)

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