Tuesday, July 7, 2009

A Vineyard in the Heart of Paris


Montmartre, for all its renown, is a part of Paris that I usually avoid. Busloads of tourists throng the square near the cathedral, especially in summer. And the cheap businesses that have sprung up to serve them lend a tawdry atmosphere to this otherwise beautiful neighborhood. But that said, I love to visit Paris's last remaining vineyard, nestled on the Butte Montmartre. It is one of Paris' most secret gardens with its only remaining vineyard.
You will feel as if you were in a French San Francisco as you climb the Butte Montmartre. Make sure to look around as you walk. The Butte Montmartre is one of the most charming neighborhoods of Paris, full of individual houses that have lots of character compared to the homogeneous Hausmannian apartment buildings lining the streets of many arrondissements. You also can catch glimpses into the secret gardens of several of the surrounding homes, as well as a stunning view of the icing sugar castle that is the cathedral of Sacré Coeur.
The wine produced here is called, Le Clos Montmartre and in the middle of October a big wine festival goes on. Today, the harvest is a celebrity event, and sale of the wine goes to charity.
To discover the vineyard of the Clos Montmartre, take the #12 Métro line north of Place Pigalle to the Lamarck-Caulaincourt stop. Go up the steps in the photo and follow the signs for the Musée Montmartre.