Friday, March 29, 2019

Tally-Ho, I'm off to France for 3 weeks...

I'm off to France!!!

more specific, I'm off to drive into the very heart of the country, the Auvergne, an area for a long time kept apart from the rest of the country by its mountains, forests and wild countryside. Today even still, it remains a region still largely untouched.

Tuesday, March 26, 2019

The only shop of its kind in Paris - only devoted entirely to ham

Caractere de Cochon



Found in the Marias, this closet-like space is filled with every kind of cooked and cured hams from various countries and just about every region in France with a variety of pates, terrines and antipasti and sausages for good measure.
For lunch have them make you up a traditional jambon beurre ( ham and butter) sandwich with your pick of hams.

Paris Bistros of old...


If you want to drop into a time capsule ( I do every time I’m in France) and experience classic French/Parisian cuisine, experience the 1920’s and 30’s, then I have a long list for you to try.

A favorite of mine is Benoit. A few years ago, the family ( the kids that is) that ran it wanted to walk away and luckily, Alain Ducasse took it over, updated the menu a bit, but keep the traditional décor ( that I remember as a kid in the 1950’s)  and its now better than ever.
French food is fussy and I mean that in the best possible way – no one does fuss better than the Gauls. And no one does the white-tablecloth ( a must in my book) bistro cuisine quite like BENOIT.

In this culinary moment, when chefs look like bikers and the maître d's’ look like farmers, it feels subversive, almost rebellious, to sit down in this dressy room and gorge yourself into food coma on garlicky escargots, sausage en brioche, impossible-to- finish cassoulet, crayfish soup (Just the best!)  and tarte Tatin served with cream so thick the waiter has to spoon it up with both hands. Sure its rich, but this is Paris!! You’re not here for the wheatgrass juice.


The late chef, Paul Bocuse was once asked by a customer, why don’t you serve more healthy food and his response was ‘ Madam, I run a restaurant, not a hospital’.




Monday, March 25, 2019

A romantic spot in Paris

Being an unabashed romantic,. I am always looking for spots  that just ooze with romance.

On La Cite ( the island in the middle of the Seine - Home of Notre- Dame) is a spot that juts out into the Seine, where you'll find a gorgeous willow tree and a great spot to sit under the willow wand look down the Seine.




   

Thursday, March 21, 2019

Cafe etiquette - One thing that is likely to get you a scolding in France

Cafe sitting is one of the best things to do in France, but here is something to remember when doing so...

Sitting at a manger ( eating placement) table  instead of a boire ( drinking ) table at a cafe when all you wanted was a coffee.
Will get you a scolding for sure by the staff...

So, before you sit down, if you only want coffee look for a table that has NO flatware on it.          
                                                NO! NON!


YES, OUI!



Wednesday, March 20, 2019

Manet, Degas, Renoir,Monet,Cezanne,Gauguin, Van Gogh...Oh My!

In Paris until July, you can see one of the most grandiose collections of Impressionist masters, from one of the most prestigious private collections in the world.

The Art collection of Emil Buhrle ( the Swiss industrialist) is being shown at the Left Bank Musee Mailllol, in the 7th arrondissement of Paris.

60 of the best of 600 objects of this collector, range from Impressionism to Fauvism passing Cubism and the Nabis will arouse desires in any one who these them.


I have organized my ENTIRE life NOT BEING around CHILDREN, but…



Although the French do love children, there are rules of conduct about where to take them and out to dine.

In my 50 plus years of travel to France, you rarely see children in restaurants; unless it’s a McDonalds type.

French restaurants (especially Paris) don’t have a reputation for being very child friendly. You just don’t see children eating out in Paris and France in general.  But if you must, here are some things you need to know.

Choose Wisely: You must pick a kind of place where kids are welcomed. Casual spots like cafes, some bistros (not many) or non-French places; like pizza or Chinese food are good choices. Funny but Asian restaurants are the few places you’ll see kids eating.

Eat Early: French people are creatures of habit – they like to eat at the same times (that is all over France). From 12 noon to 230pm for lunch and from 8:00pm to 10:30pm for dinner. Again, most regular restaurants in the evening don’t open until 7:30pm. Paris restaurants keep very rigid hours, so if you eat outside those times above, look for places that have ‘service continu’ continuous dining – usually a café, but be warned, the best food in Paris Is not found in these places.

Don’t expect kid accoutrements: Like high chairs, crayons, kids menu, whatever. Yes, restaurants for families do exist, but chain restaurants.
Don’t just show up with a stroller expecting to be seated. If a restaurant is reluctant to welcome kids, it’s almost always a space issue ( if you have a stroller). Real estate is expensive, most restaurants are tiny. If a restaurant sees you coming with a stroller, expect to be not seated.

The Bottom Line: Dining out in Paris with young children is NOT COMMON


The most important word in the French language

Perhaps the first word you are ever taught in French is BONJOUR. but what they don't tell you is that bonjour isn't just a greeting, it's actually the most important word in the French language and if you use it correctly and frequently it will make life so much more pleasant for you in France.



It's likely to also help change that stereotype ( still active today) you had of impolite French people. 

You can never overdo it with Bonjour, when you think you've said it too much, you're probably saying it just enough. 


Tuesday, March 19, 2019

Is 'real' French cheese in danger?

Every region of France has its own particular cheeses. Back in time of General de Gaulle, France had over 246 cheeses - and today that list has expanded.


Many of the top cheeses in France that are considered authentic are given the highly-prized protected Designation of Origin label, this means it was made with raw cows milk, but today, in France, commercial cheeses bearing names like Camembert are made with pasteurized cows milk, may be given a new special label.. The purists ( like myself) yell outrage! and say this decision jeopardizes the future of real raw milk cheeses.

You'll never taste true French raw milk cheeses in the USA, its not allowed to be imported. You'll only find then in France, but now also in France, you'll find mass-produced bland-tasting, pasteurized versions of cheeses. 
When in France, try ( at the local French cheese shops) the real taste of a raw milk cheese and you'll never go back to the bland commercial stuff.



Friday, March 15, 2019

France is full of rules and that's what makes life so livable here...


Rule:
You can not 'have it your way' when it comes to food in France
The Burger King motto does not fly outside of the US. So don't, please don't bring your American mentality to the table in France.

Eat the food on the menu as it is prepared or don't order it. There is' no mayo on the side'. 'I want fries instead of rice' options. Respect how the food is prepared and served. If you have food allergies or other restrictions ( It seems to me these days, its every American), try to do some planning ahead of time, although I can tell you are going to have a rough time in France. 

Wednesday, March 6, 2019

At the Fabulous Paris department store - Galleries Lafeyette Haussmann


You can walk under the magical dome,  high above the central section of the store on a glass walk way...




Dining in the Louvre gardens... Your next Parisian must!

Nestled between the historic walls of the Louvre, the Loulou restaurant has been taken over by new owners ( its attached to one of my favorite museums in Paris, Musee des Arts Decoratifs ). The must here ( if the weather is good) is to sit on the vast terrace in the shade of giant white parasols and have lunch or dinner.

A truly bucolic paradise within this busy city.  No cars or pedestrians passing by your table here, just breathtaking views over the gardens and the historic Louvre buildings. An idyllic location to enjoy the top-flights Italian-Mediterranean  cuisine. 
Hours - Noon to 3pm and 7:30pm to 11pm.



Monday, March 4, 2019

You say, You want a hamburger while in Paris? - Are you mad? Well maybe not...



The French, if you must know, are mad about American Hamburgers and as of late, the Hamburger has made it into the food scene in Paris, so forget MacDonald's; there are now scores of wonderful Parisian hamburger shops and the best of them is Big Fernand. 



 Its a chain of hamburger restaurants  but with a twist a la francaise. Traditional American hamburger and add French cheese ( some raw milk like tomme de savoie, raclette and morbier to name a few) ) prime French beef ( mixed with herbes de provence)  and of course daily baked French bread.