In Austria - a new dining discovery

Having just returned from my three-country sojourn ( Austria, Germany, Hungary) , even after over 50 years of traveling, there is always something new to learn. In this case, it was in Linz, Austria at the restaurant, Keintzel.

At this cozy Wirtshaus, I had wildschein ( wild boar) with red cabbage ; it was out of this world.

When dessert came, as I always do, I ordered a double espresso and the restaurant owner came over and said, its tradition in this area of Austria to also have a small glass of Schnapps along with your coffee.. I know ( Schnapps) it’s like the French eau de vie and so I asked what fruit flavors do you have and he said, ‘let me give something that is only found in this area, its called Zirben Schnapps. ‘

He presented me with a tall thin glass with a red colored Schnapps and the aroma and taste, to me was of something like the smell of a pine forest.

In fact, to my surprise, it was, it’s a high-alpine pine cone flavor that united a fine sweetness and a lightly tangy heart taste. It’s I’m told a classic among herbal spirits

It was a great discovery of not only this Schnapps, but of having Schnapps along with your coffee.

I love Art Nouveau and its founder, Alphonse Mucha

While he is famous for his posters, Mucha was a versatile artist: painter, sculptor, photographer, decorator and a valued teacher. 
Now in Paris until the end of January, the musee du Luxembourg is highlighting his work. 

Paris – A jam shop you must visit!

La Chambre aux Confitures (fruit preserves) is located on the fabulous food street of rue Montorgueil. The best thing of all here, is that you can taste all the jams before you buy.  

The walls are filled with the flavors of hundreds of their handmade creations. Spoons and tester jars await for you as long as you have room in your stomach to spare. 

All the fruit is sourced from hand picked French farms. They focus on using a high percentage of fruit so you taste the ingredients first, not the sugar.

My favorite, far and away is the Framboise Royale ( raspberry and Champagne, need I say more?)

16th Arrondissement – no tourists to speak of and glorious facades of Hector Guimard ( Art Nouveau) – My favorites of arrondismments of Paris

A new gem is opening in Paris’ 16^th arrondiseement. Shrouded in mystery, Cravan quietly opened its doors on rue Jean de la Fontaine. 

This under-the-radar eatery ( a café, but really a cocktail bistro) with décor to die for – marble counters, stained glass period windows, old-fashioned mirrors and the food is downhome French.

                          The work of Hector Guimard

Germany - A search for traditional food..Munich

Hanxbauer is an old Munich restaurant housed in a historical building, the Scholastikahaus which goes back to the 14th Century. Traditional food lovers, worldwide come here to sample their famous pork knuckles.  

Their delicately seasoned pork knuckles are marinated for 24 hours in a secret salt-herb mixture before they are grilled on a beach wood charcoal grill.
It has a unique taste, crispy crust and delicate meat that lives up to its promise.

For any foodie, this is must...

A bit of heaven, just 20 minutes south of the city of Bordeaux

Vienna good eats – Yes, I’ve broaden my horizons and have just returned from Austria and Germany

One of the many dining joys of Austria is having (and discovering) the classic dish of Viennese cuisine of Tafelspitz. It’s basically boiled beef in broth served with a mix of apples and horseradish, but before you start to wrinkle your nose, its one of the most satisfying and delightful dishes I have tasted in years. In fact, I have become a huge fan of this dish. It was said that Franz Joseph, Emperor of Austria was a great lover of that dish and it was said that his table was never without a fine piece of Tafelspitz.

During the high of Austrian power, it was said that there was at least 30 different kinds of cuts of beef you could choose used in the dish.

When you are served this ultimate ‘comfort food’ there is an elaborate ritual one must adhere to.

A shinny copper pot is placed on the table with the side dishes. First of all, your served (from the copper pot) the clear consommé ( after a cup or two) , during which you scoop out the marrow from the bones soaking in the pot on to toast points.

The you are served the meal; so tender that it falls of the bone.

I must say, that words of ordinary prose have generally been inadequate to express the delights of this dish.  

To say that you have visited Vienna and have never tasted this dish is to say, you never really visited the city.

Where is the life that late I led – Memories of the Formidable M. Point

I shall never forget my first lunch at Fernand Point’s restaurant de la Pyramide in Vienne (just outside Lyon)

In 1953, I was taken to eat in what was then (and I think still) was the finest restaurant in France, run by the formidable Monsieur Point. I was 10 at the time and it was very unusual that someone my age would be eating at a 3 star Michelin restaurant; but this was a special occasion and I was well aware of it.

If you don’t know, M. Point was one of the greatest chefs and restaurateurs/food innovators in France and trained the likes of Paul Bocuse and the Troisgros bothers among others.

Some of the items we were served were Pate chaud de Caneton au Chambertin, mousse de Truites and perdreaux casserole and the sauces, oh! The sauces…

Unfortunately, French chefs no longer cook like this nowadays, sad, oh so sad.

But what I most remember from that extraordinary lunch was the humor of this large and gruff looking man (who turned out to be very kind to me) and something he said at the end of our meal and something I have never forgotten and have always carried with me in my travels and eating worldwide.

‘That anybody should come to my restaurant just to eat, instead of to taste, enjoy, appreciate and dream’.

The Secret to uncovering the soul of the world’s great cities

If I had to give advice to someone who has never been to Paris ( or for that matter of fact; any of the world’s great cities)  on how to best enjoy it as a tourist ( and lets face it first time or the 200th time ; me in Paris, we are all really tourists) One could certainly rattle off the sites and landmarks of which the cities are known for, but no, what one is seeking ( maybe not really saying it) is they want to spend the life of a local, absorbing the soul of the city.

What it would be like to truly reside there and perhaps unsurprisingly, pastimes that revolve around eating and drinking prove particularly popular.

In Paris, the answer to me and most locals is: Cafes.

Nowhere is better for soaking up Parisian atmosphere, order a café crème or a glass of red wine and settle in for some people watching. 

Whether it be the Place de la Contrescarpe in the Latin Quarter, Place des Vosges in the Marais or pulling up a chair on one of the many pavement-side terraces that line Canal Saint-Martin, this is where you’ll experience Parisian life.

Nuf said!!