Tuesday, April 26, 2011

"quand l'appétit va, tout va!"

There is a a famous saying in France that goes "quand l'appétit va, tout va!" ("when your appetite is fine, everything else is") and, well considering the huge "Gauffre" aux marrons (chestnuts waffle) one can get in Paris, How true that is!

Monday, April 25, 2011

Do you have a favorite metro in Paris? This Is one of mine..

It's on the Left Bank - Metro Saint-Michel
I love this busy Saint-Michel station with the art-nouveau entrance
lots of action on the streets around and usually you'll be greeted by
sounds of music wafting up from one of the many
groups of buskers that frequent this station.

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Easter In France

                 ~ Special Easter Traditions in France ~
Easter Sunday and Easter Monday are national holidays in France. Government businesses and most shops are closed (though tourist attractions such as museums and monuments remain open for visiting).
• Best place for Easter Mass on April 24: Notre Dame Cathedral
Services at: 8.15 a.m., 10 a.m., 11.30 a.m., 12.45 p.m., 5.45 p.m., and 6.30 p.m.
NOTE: The Gregorian mass at 10 a.m. on Easter Sunday is very beautiful.
•TIP: Visitors should be sure to visit the charcuteries to sample the traditional Paté de Pacques (Easter paté), made only at this time of year.
( Sorry for putting Porc next to a Jewish suggestion for Passover )
•Best place for traditional Passover, or “Pesach” specialties in Paris are found in many restaurants in the beautiful Marais neighborhood.

Secret Corners Of Paris That I Adore

                                           Place Dauphine
At the very tip of Ile de la Cite, near the Pont Neuf in the 1st.
Place Dauphine is one of the prettiest squares in Paris, situated right in the center of the city. At the foot of Ile de la Cite (not nearest Ile St. Louis, but the other end) lies a lovely, quiet old square that is actually V-shaped. I like the Taverne Henri IV wine bar here.

Monday, April 11, 2011

Tango In Paris Under The Stars

Quai St.-Bernard
Square Tino Rossi, in the 5th.
Every evening from May through September, from sunset to midnight, Parisians take advantage of the warming weather and free tango classes on the quai St.-Bernard. The quai is essentially a walkway that stretches between the Pont Sully and the Pont d’Austerlitz. It is flanked by the Seine on the north side and the scenic Jardin des Plantes on the south. Take advantage of these free classes to soak in the spring and summer sunsets.
The dancing begins at 7 p.m. each evening during the week and at 5 p.m. on week-ends. What’s really nice is that you get young and old alike dancing together. Everyone is welcome, and who knows, you just might meet your dance partner for life!
Who was the square named after?
Tino Rossi was a singer and film actor, he was a tenor of French cabaret and one of the great romantic idols of his time. Gifted with an operatic voice, a "Latin Lover" persona made him a movie star as well. Over his career, Rossi made hundreds of records and appeared in more than 25 films. His romantic ballads had women swooning.

Monday, April 4, 2011

Oysters - Everything You Wanted to Know, but Were Afraid To Ask or...... Eat!

I am sure; many of you have eaten oysters in your travels. If you have been to France, it’s a must, in order to taste the 'real' France . But eating is one thing, another is seeing how they are harvested and eating them right off the boat. Now,just outside Bordeaux, in the bay of Arcachon - home to famous oysters and scores of oyster growers and harvesters, you now have the chance to spend some time with an oyster grower; ah better than that, a beautiful oyster grower - Sylvie LATRILLE.
Sylvie has opened her business and profession to visits to see at first hand - the Oyster and how it is raised and harvested.
She offers many workshops (in between her growing and harvesting oysters)
~ The Shucking Workshop - Learn the skill (and it is a skill) of opening an oyster with the tasting of 6 different sizes and shapes

~ First Time Oyster Eaters Workshop - an introduction and conversation and tasting to people who don’t realize what they have been missing.- a glass of wine, bread and butter and a step by step class.
~ Going Out With The Tide - Experience a ride on an oyster barge to 'get the drift' of the oyster profession
........ Of course, just sitting outside her oyster shack, over looking the harbor and eating oysters, drinking local wine( from near by Bordeaux) and maybe enjoying some Pate? If you wish, you can even top that off with whelks, shrimps and clams.


Monday, March 28, 2011

Limeuil - One of the Most Beautiful Villages in France

Located just a bit off the beaten path in the Dorodgne , this lovely village where the Dordogne and Vezere rivers meet is worth a detour.

Friday, March 25, 2011

Francois, The Paella Man - In Paris

One of the great pleasures of being in France is to visit the weekly open air market. It's one of my musts whenever I visit. In the countryside besides the standard wonderful fare found at a French Market, are vendors who prepare food to go. Unlike the awful food to go in the United States, we are talking about a whole different thing in France. I love the Paella Man whom you see again and again at various country markets and now I am happy to report, there is one in Paris.
Twice a week at Place Baudoyer (The Marais) where a local Paris outdoor market is, Francois makes the freshest, most scrumptious, and authentic paella. He sets up his truck on Saturday mornings and Wednesday afternoons and makes the paella from scratch with spicy sausage, jumbo shrimp, fresh mussels, red & green peppers, bay leaves, rice, peas, and the most tender chicken parts. A huge portion for one, which is actually enough for two, costs only 7 euros. One salivates as he scoops the steaming hot paella into the container. Francois also prepares excellent beef Bourguignon, chicken fricassee, chicken stew with white beans, and big sausages with lentils, but for me his shining star is the paella.
Francois's Paella Truck
Baudoyer market
Place Baudoyer, between rue de Rivoli & rue Francois Miron, 4th arr.
Metro:Hotel de Ville, St. Paul
Open Saturday 7AM-3PM- Note: paella is not ready till about 11:30AM
Wednesday 3PM-8:30PM

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Sumptious Festivites at Vaux Le Vicomte - Play King and Queen for an Evening

Every year, during the summer, Vaux le Vicomte ( my favorite to visit rather than Versailles, in fact, Versailles was modeled on Vaux) opens its estate for all the visitors looking for the beauty of nature, landscape, and exceptional architecture.
As evening falls on Saturdays between May 7th and October 8th, over 2,000 candles are lit throughout the château and gardens. Tour the chateau by candlelight!
This festival of light is complemented by classical music in a section of the gardens, designed by Le Nôtre. Stretched out in a deckchair, visitors can allow themselves to be transported back in time by this magical illumination to a memorable page of history, the only party given at Vaux le Vicomte by Nicolas Fouquet, on 17 August 1661, in response to a request from the young king Louis XIV.
Possibility to eat on the Estate in our restaurant L'Ecureuil or in the gardens at Les Charmilles
Fireworks will be shot on the first and 3rd Saturday of the month around 10:30 p.m.

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

London Afternoon Tea with a Twist...............or an Olive

One of the major events for any visitor to London is a traditional full blown English tea and there are many wonderful ones to recommend throughout the city and I have been enjoying those teas since I was a child from the early 1950's, and those who know me well, also know that I have been drinking Martini's since I was 21, ah, some 40 years or so and so it is with great excitement, that I have discovered that at the cozy, boutique hotel - Flemings( located in Mayfair - my favorite area in all of London) not only like its neighborhood upscale hotels, offers a traditional English tea, but know also offers - a Martini Tea. It is, in the British argot, ................'Brilliant!'
I love London English teas and I also love Martini’s and so here I can experience both in one sitting. So on you next trip to London, have a afternoon Martini tea or even better yet, have one and then stay at this most wonderful boutique hotel in the city.
In the words of Lyricist Ira Gershwin…. “Who could ask for anything more?”

Here are just a few samples that I recommend:
THE MAYFAIR MARTINI £12.00
Martini’s made with Berry Bros. & Rudd No. 3 London Dry Gin, stirred
patiently with your preferred vermouth and finished with a selection of
citrus fruits/olives or even a hint of bitters.
THE FLEMINGS NEGRONI £12.00
Your choice of Gin stirred with your selection of Sweet Vermouth and
Campari, served over ice with a selection of citrus oils.
SIGNATURE MARTINI £12.00
Our signature Martini: aged Van Wee's Genever lovingly stirred through
with hints of ripe apricot, a whisper of aromatic wine and a touch of bitter orange. Finished with fresh orange oils.

A French Thought For The Day..........

"I don't speak French that well, although I do read French Menu's well!" - H.E. Lewis

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

The French Riviera - How To Arrive In Style

Although I love the sun and fun of the French Riviera, I am less sanguine about the cities of Nice and Cannes. To me, those areas are one gigantic stretch of miles and miles of ugly, condo’s running along the beach. Much more atmospheric and lovely is the area east of Nice – the villages from St Jean-Cap Ferrat – Villefranche-Beaulieu and Eze. This is the Beverly Hills of the French Rivera and home to wonderful hotels.
Of course, just east of all of this is the small country of Monaco and Monte Carlo. Here 365 days of beautiful, sunny weather, chic people, shops and restaurants and just one of my favorite areas in Southern France.
One of, NO! The best way to arrive here is by Heli Air Monaco. The flights depart from the Nice airport (almost every 30 minutes) and it takes all of 7 minutes, in a spectacular ride passing the beautiful villages mentioned above. Once you land in this dream city of Southern France, there is free transportation into town or your hotel.
Even if you are not staying here, why not consider taking the Helicopter flight over for a day. You won’t be disappointed. The prices are very reasonable too.

Monday, March 21, 2011

MOTORING TREATS FOR THE RACE DRIVER IN YOU IN THE LOIRE VALLEY

 

While staying as private guests of Comte and Comtesse de Vanssay experiencing 600 years of history in their elegant Loire Valley Château,
Automobile lovers can enjoy racing a Ferrari 430GT, a Lamborghini Gallardo a Porsche or a Pescarolo Prototype around the world famous racetrack in Le Mans.
This exclusive 3 night package, priced between 525 and 725 euros per person, includes:
- Three nights accommodation in one of the elegant rooms of the château, furnished with designer fabrics and precious antiques
- Champagne welcome, flowers and port wine in your room
- a memorable Grand Siècle candlelit dinner in the prestigeous XVIIth century dining room on one night
- a wine and cheese tasting supper in the XIVth century billiard room on another night
- Daily English breakfast and afternoon tea
Additional cost per motoring event : 250 euros for 4 laps to 1200 for an entire day
Specific dates : May 21&22, Wednesday 13th of July, Monday 25th of July, Monday 31st of October, Tuesday 1st of November and Sunday 6th of November

Reims, the city of kings and Champagne - An Easy Day Trip From Paris

A quick 45-minute ride from Paris' Gare de l'Est station via the superfast TGV train, Reims offers many attractions in a relatively compact area easily navigated by foot or, if you must, by taxi. There's the Gothic masterpiece that is the Notre-Dame Cathedral and the more subdued Romanesque Basilica of St. Remi (53, rue Simon), where lies the tomb of said saint, who baptized Clovis, king of Franks. You can visit the Musee de la Reddition (The Surrender Museum, 12, rue Franklin Roosevelt), where the Germans surrendered to Gen. Dwight D. Eisenhower, ending the European phase of World War II, or gaze on the Mars Gate (Place de la Republique), the only remaining gate to what was the Roman city of Durocortorum.
Dine in subtle but unmistakable luxury in the Michelin one-star restaurant Le Millenaire (4-6, rue Bertin — try the langoustines four ways to start) or jovially jostle elbows with locals and visitors (if you hear any English, they're likely British) at fast, affordable neighborhood boites such as Le Lion de Belfort (37, place Drouet d'Erlon — try the Gruyere cheese omelet: deliciously simple). Or Les Crayeres a 3 star Michelin restaurant and chateau in the center of town. I must admit, I always come here and have lunch when I am in Paris. Although very expensive, they now also have a lovely bistro and more affordable prices, either one is highly recommended. And don't forget the Champagne houses —— where you'll be able to tour ancient quarries-turned-wine-cellars and sip some of the bubbly that made Champagne world famous.
Dominating the city skyline is the Cathedrale Notre-Dame de Reims (Our Lady of Reims). Construction began in 1211. Each succeeding century has left a mark for good or ill. The cathedral was nearly destroyed by German bombardment during World War I, and it remains a restoration work in progress.
The cathedral (1, rue Guillaume de Machault) strikes me as being far more imposing than Notre Dame in Paris. The scale seems grander, with the pillars soaring upward to the vaulted ceiling high above. Nor are there the crowds and the lines you have to endure at any of Paris' historic churches.
At the neighboring Palace of Tau (2, place du Cardinal-Lucon), the former home of the archbishops of Reims, you can get a close-up look at some of the statuary removed from cathedral facade because they were too fragile or damaged. The kings of France were crowned in the cathedral, the last being Charles X in 1825. So it's natural the palais would have an exhibition focusing on the kings and their coronations.
The action is centered on the Place Drouet d'Erlon, one of the major downtown streets just minutes from the Reims train station.
Reims is friendly, but remember: English can be sparse, so learn some rudimentary French phrases, practice your pantomime and meet smile with smile; you'll be all set.
Visiting the big names
No visit to Reims at any season would be complete without visiting a Champagne house., a number of big names remain open, such as Pommery, G.H. Mumm and Taittinger. Even if you don't drink Champagne, a visit can be instructive, as the houses themselves and their luxury products reflect the culture and history of France. Just remember to reserve a tour time.
Reims sits on a large deposit of easily carved limestone. Over the millennia, residents have cut tunnels through the rock, building subterranean galleries perfect for aging Champagne. Most tunnel tours offer a quick how-to in making Champagne, complete with display bottles at various stages in the production process.
Domaine Pommery (5, place du General Gouraud) is a short taxi ride from downtown Reims. If the castle-like chateau strikes you as a touch kitschy, you're not far off. Louise Pommery, the brains behind this bubbly operation in the 19th century, had the chateau built to suggest a English manor house to attract traveling Brits.
Tours are offered. Prices start about $16.40. The sprawling complex that is G.H. Mumm & Cie (34, rue du Champs de Mars) looks more like a Hollywood movie studio. The tour comes with movies that tell the Champagne story, and the cellars offer a mini-history of how Champagne making has evolved over the centuries. Cellars are open daily. Admission is about $11.
Taittinger (9, place Saint-Nicaise) has named its cellars for St. Nicaise, a 5th century bishop of Reims who, when he found his head cut off by barbarian invaders, simply went on saying his prayers. The tour leads to a huge Roman quarry. Tours are on weekdays. A tour ticket is about $13.7

Friday, March 18, 2011

D DAY tour with a Military General

Having journeyed often thousands of miles to visit Normandy, travelers' expectations are high. To meet these expectations and adequately describe and interpret the events of D-Day through to the end of the Battle of Normandy requires a Guide with both detailed historical knowledge and first hand experiences of the friction and intensity of operations.
There are many ways to tour the historical D Day sites in Normandy, France, but one that I reccommend is seeing it through the eyes of a Military expert : Major General Graham Hollands

Gen.Hollands now lives in Normandy and conducts personalised Battlefield Tours for us at Protravel. His military service, local knowledge and interest in military history offer our clients a memorable opportunity for him to bring to life the events of a pivotal campaign of World War II. Our Tours can be personalised to the extent that you wish. No fixed timetables govern the activities. If you have a particular theme,interest, family or unit connection you wish to pursue, these can normally be accommodated.
Graham Hollands army career included service in Germany, Northern Ireland, Africa and England. His last military appointment was as the Artillery and Combat Support Commander of the multi-national NATO Rapid Reaction Corps. After leaving the Army, he was head of a large academic institution and latterly has worked in the Balkans with the United Nations. Graham Hollands has appeared on the Discovery Channel as a guest lecturer on the Queen Mary II and the BBC as an expert commentator on the events of DDay. Major General Hollands is a founding Director of an institution that is
creating, in Normandy, an internationally reputable academic, archive,
education and research centre, covering the events that took place
between June and August 1944 .

Thursday, March 17, 2011

The Baguette to Bistro: Culinary Traditions of Paris

Paul Bennett has started a walking seminar tours in the major capitols of Europe, called Context Tours.
http://www.contexttravel.com/
. The plus with his wonderful tours are:
~ small groups - ( or private if you wish) of no more than 6 people, with a hands-on conversational experience
~ No tour guides, but scholars or specialists with PH'D.s or terminal degrees in their field of study
~ theme tours to hidden parts of the city.
~ Priced very reasonsable
One of my favorite is the ..................Baguette to Bistro tour.
See me for details of other faninating tours offered.
Paris is synonymous for gastronomic refinement and elegance firmly built on its traditions. From les grands restaurants to the thousands of exquisite specialty shops to the neighborhood boulangerie, Parisians make food an art. On this 2.5-hour walk we will delve into the fascinating and delectable world of Parisian culinary traditions in the company of a true food expert.
Our walk takes place in the chic Left Bank of Paris, where we will visit some of the city's finest food shops. Our docent, a trained chef or food journalist, will introduce us to some of the basic concepts of French cuisine, from discerning the proper cheese to understanding what's on display at the butcher's. Our immersion begins with a staple in any French diet: la Baguette. Though found on every Parisian table, all baguettes—governed by a surprising melange of history and law—are far from the same. We will learn how to tell them apart at one of Paris' best bakeries.
Our walk takes place in the chic Left Bank of Paris, where we will visit some of the city's finest food shops. Our docent, a trained chef or food journalist, will introduce us to some of the basic concepts of French cuisine, from discerning the proper cheese to understanding what's on display at the butcher's. Our immersion begins with a staple in any French diet: la Baguette. Though found on every Parisian table, all baguettes—governed by a surprising melange of history and law—are far from the same. We will learn how to tell them apart at one of Paris' best bakeries.

From here we may visit a range of other culinary shops among them a 100-year old cheese shop where we will sample some of their regional cheeses carefully selected and aged in its on-site cellars. We could have a look at this season's wild game in the window of a real butcher shop or slip inside to taste some homemade rillettes. We might enjoy a cone of chocolate mousse made with Equatorial chocolate at the city's only mousse bar. We may also have a chat with a wine seller over a small glass of cognac or awe at the perfect culinary creations of the delicatessen Dallayau.

On our way, our conversation will range from the historic roots of French cuisine, the influence which the 1789 revolution and the bourgeoisie play in its evolution to the contributions early great chefs such as La Varenne, Carême or Escoffier had in revolutionizing menus. We may also discuss how this legacy has evolved in today's dining trends such as bistronomie and get clear on the differences between a brasserie, bistro, and restaurant.

We will end our walk at the Grand Epicerie of the Bon Marche department store, a veritable palace of gastronomy, where we will be able to put into practice some of the knowledge acquired with our docent.

Tuesday, March 15, 2011

The Best Terrace in Paris For Viewing The Eiffel Tower

Chez Francis, located in the 8e on Place Alma is a wonderfu brasserie that is a major mecca for the lunch business crowd and after theatre patrons. Beautiful interior (if the weather  is off) , good honest Brasserie food, great for people wathcing or just looking at the Eiffel Tower.
Les Entrées

Gaspacho de Tomates 12€
Avocat / Champignons de Paris / Tomates 12€

Tomates / Mozzarella di Buffala 14€

Salade Niçoise 14€

Melon Nature ou Serrano 14€ / 16€

Tomates oubliées / Artichauts / Parmesan 15€

Sardines grillées 13€

Saumon BIO d’Ecosse fumé 20€

Tartare de Dorade au Piment d’Espelette 17€

Terrine de Foie Gras / Pain au Levain grillé 21€

Salade de Homard frais / Pois gourmand 26€


Les Poissons
Langoustines de Loctudy cuites minutes à la vapeur / Riz BIO 28€
Filet de Saint Pierre / Wok de légumes 32€

Belle Sole petit bateau grillée ou meunière / Pomme purée 36€

Saumon BIO vapeur / Ecrasé de Pomme de Terre au Basilic 30€

Dorade grise de ligne des côtes bretonnes grillée / Riz BIO 30€

Merlan de Saint-Gilles façon Colbert / Pomme purée 26€


Les Viandes

Carpaccio de Bœuf / Roquette / Parmesan 20€

Tartare de Bœuf aux herbes cru ou aller-retour / Frites / Salade 21€

Poulet BIO rôti / Jus de Thym / Pomme Grenaille 25€

Rosbif de Normandie / Pomme Purée 28€

Foie de Veau poêlé / Roquette et Oignons frits des Cévennes 29€

Entrecôte de Normandie / Béarnaise / Frites 29€

Côte de Bœuf de Normandie grillée pour 2 personnes / Canon d’os à moelle 64€

Selle d’Agneau grillée / Haricots verts frais 29€

Côte de Veau de Corrèze / Wok de légumes 30€


Les Desserts
Saint−Marcellin de la mère Richard 10€
Café Gourmand 12€

Faisselle nature, Miel ou Coulis de Fruits rouge 9€

Glaces et Sorbets maison 9€

Salade de Fruits frais sans sucre 9€
Clafoutis aux Cerises 11€
Crème brûlée à la Vanille Bourbon 12€

Soupe de Fraises 13€

Assiette de Fruits Rouge 13€

Mi-cuit Chocolat coeur de Guanaja 13€


Les Huîtres
Les Marennes Oléron
Fines de Claires N°2 Les 6 : 20€
Fines de Claires N°3 Les 6 : 17€

Spéciales N°2 Les 6 : 29€
Spéciales N°5 Les 6 : 17€

 
Les Plates

Belon N°0 Les 6 : 34€

Belon N°2 Les 6 : 24€

Belon N°4 Les 6 : 16€

Creuses de Normandie

Huîtres d’Isigny « Spéciales » Les 6 : 17€

Les Coquillage et Crustacés

Moules d’Espagne (Les 6) 7€

Clam (La pièce) 5€
Palourdes (Les 6) 17€
Bulots 9€

Oursins Prix selon arrivage

Tourteau entier 19€

Langoustines tièdes 26€

Bouquet de Crevettes rose 19€

Praires (Les 6) 19€

Les Plateaux
Le Plateau Dégustation 28€
3 Belons N°4 , 3 Fines de Fines de Claires N°3 , 3 Creuses N°3

Le Plateau du Mareyeur 54€

3 Belons N°4 , 7 Creuses , 3 Moules d’Espagne , 1 Clam , 4 Palourdes

Bulots , 2 Langoustines , 3 Crevettes rose , 1 Tourteau

Le Plateau Royal (2 personnes) 105€

6 Belons N°4 , 14 Creuses , 6 Moules d’Espagne , 2 Clam , 8 Palourdes

Bulots , 4 Langoustines , 6 Crevettes rose , 2 Tourteau

Some Of London's restaurants still blaze with the EDWARDIAN SPIRIT

After my most recent gastronomic excursion to London in October, I can still reliably report that you can still dine out like Royalty in the most Royal of cities. Although many of my favorites of past years are now long gone (such as The Savoy Grill, Café Royal Grill Room, Overtons’ and L’Aperitif at Browns Hotel ) or have changed to the new type of modern cuisine ( that bores me stiff) a few still remain and still thrill.The places I visit and relish are the great Edwardian restaurants, places that recall an era of polished mahogany, heavy silver, sparkling crystal, swallow-tailed dress and personalized service, where French and English chefs provide the sumptuous dishes that I savor and enjoy.The Edwardian era, associated with Edward VII was also the era of Epicureanism, lasting from the late 19th-century to the early 1920’s. It was an era of enormous wealth and prosperity, unequaled creature comforts, magnificent personal attire and an opulent elegance of setting. Two of my favorites of this era and are still around are Rules and Wiltons. Rules (established in 1798), the ultra-classic English restaurant in Covent Garden, remains as crowed today as ever. Here still, is served roast grouse (in season) and woodcock, meat puddings and chicken pies, ribs of Scottish beef, jugged hare, rich and Sherry trifle with thick Devonshire cream. Tradition and continuity are what Rules is all about and as you perch comfortable on a red banquette ( # 22 is my favorite) , surrounded by hundreds of caricatures, engravings and old programs from the Queens theatre, mounted antlers, glossy wood paneling and antique stained glass, its easy to imagine Edward VII and his mistress, Lily Langtry dining casually at their favorite table by a lattice window on the first floor (portraits signed by each still grace the walls). This restaurant is what I come to London for, when I am hungry and the kitchen proves that there is more to classic English Cooking than a joint of meat with two veggies.
http://www.rules.co.uk/
Check back for my review of Wilton’s.

You say Monet and I say Manet................

                 Exceptional Manet Exhibit Opening at the d'Orsay Museum

Une petite reminder... The extraordinary exhibition: “Manet: the Man who Invented Modern Art” opens at the d’Orsay Museum in Paris on April 5th. This will be a hugely popular museum event, so you'll likely want to reserve tickets online in advance or obtain tickets from your  hotel concierge.

Friday, March 11, 2011

Cannes - In The Know Experiences

Between Nice and Cannes, I prefer Cannes, not only is it the glamour capitol of the French Riviera, but also unlike the rocky pebble beaches at Nice, it has beautiful sandy beaches. It also has its share of glamorous hotels, like the 100 year Carlton InterContinental. Any guest of Provtravel gets a full Champagne buffet breakfast daily, upgrade subject to availability, in room FREE internet and the best of all, free access to the Carlton Beach club and lounges ( normally 60 Euros per day for hotel guests). One of my favorite excursions in Cannes is visiting the old market - Marche Forville. It's open every day until 12 noon, but its best ( if your dates work out) to visit on Sundays. Extra tables are set out and the market offers tapas to munch on during your visit.
                                          Marche Forville Cannes
Hidden away in Cannes la Bocca (the main quarter of Cannes) is the Marche Forville. This is the best Provencal market in Cannes. It is also be considered one of the best, if not the best, on the French Riviera.
This is very much a market for local people. It is virtually tourist free. The Sunday market is a rendezvous for many Cannois. From the local tradesman, restaurant owners and hoteliers to the mayor himself may be seen here mingling and buying fresh local produce. Guests are welcome to the local market for local people
Local merchants and producers pack the covered Forville Market once a week, on Sunday. The best of the newly arrived flowers, fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meats and fish are on display and sale here. Most have been caught, grown or produced locally and are of great quality.
This market is a true taste of local Cannes. There is a specific taste of provence and the Riviera here that you can taste and smell. If you want a real feel of the real town, this is the place to get it.

The only warning that should be given is "watch your elbows". The frenzy of local French people reaching for fresh market produce plays havoc on them.




Extra TIP! If you are in Cannes during July/August, the city has ( on weekends) fireworks in the bay and one must take a table at the beach club at the Carlton and watch the fireworks!















Friday, March 4, 2011

Art to Dine with..................

I love the French domestic arts and this spring I am excited to see and visit two new museums one ( in Alsace) devoted to Rene Lalique glass creations ( he is my favorite of all) and another museum devoted to 2000 silver pieces of Christofle ( located in Paris)
The Musée Lalique, the first museum solely dedicated to René Lalique's glass and crystal work, will open in the town of Wingen-sur-Moder in Alsace in spring 2011.
Situated in the 18th-century glassmaking site where Lalique first started his now celebrated work, the new museum will trace the history of glassmaking, as well as display nearly 600 pieces designed by René Lalique
The 900-square-meter Musée Lalique will welcome a permanent exhibition that will present the history of the glass, and showcase never-before seen vases and jewelry, much of which were created during the Art Nouveau period between 1890 and 1905. Many of Lalique's famous works will be exhibited, such as his jewelry, Art Deco glass designs, perfume bottles and statues. A separate temporary exhibit space will display a variety of other glass pieces, updated one to two times per year.
The items presented in the museum will include donations from the Lalique Company and from various Paris museums such as the Musée des Arts et Métiers and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Also featured in the exhibits will be audiovisual and multimedia documents, which will help visitors gain a more comprehensive view of the historical, artistic and technical context behind Lalique’s work. A guided tour will also be available for visitors to explore the site and uncover the history of glassmaking in the area.

A New Food Fad – Snail Egg Caviar

The Champagne area of France , more specific The city of Reims, is host to many illustrious Champagne houses, but foodies in the know have also discovered that this city is also one of the gastronomic capitals of France, specializing in unique sweets and surprising local delicacies.
Locals, Dominique and Sylvie Pierru quit their day jobs to become snail farmers. The next three years they spent on perfecting a way to harvest the eggs of their 60,000 gasteropods, being specially fed on a diet of herbs and cereals to maximize their taste.The result is about 200kg of small, cream-colored pearls . They are sorted, salted (using Guerande salt – best quality refined salt), cleansed and perfumed with rosemary essence before being packed. The producers described the taste as “the subtle taste of nature, experiment the nature of a walk in the forest after the rain, mushrooms and undergrowth oak leaves hints.”
They are being sold under the name of De Jaeger-Caviar D’escargot and can be found at Hediard ( in Reims) and maybe nowadays also at their store in Paris.



Thursday, March 3, 2011

As Cole Porter Once Wrote " I love Paris, Because My Heart Is There"


A Paris basic overview for 1st timers or anytimer, that is.
20 arrondissements that spiral out clockwise from the centre, Paris is often compared to a collection of villages. The most visible division, however, is into Right Bank, north of the River Seine, and Left Bank to the south, with the Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis in-between. The Louvre is roughly in the heart of the Right Bank, the start of a grand perspective west through the Tuileries up the Champs-Elysées to the Arc de Triomphe.



To the east is the beautifully preserved historic Marais; to the north, villagey Montmartre. In poorer north-east Paris, tenements mix with public housing, yet this area also contains fashionable Père Lachaise cemetery, romantic Buttes-Chaumont park, and La Villette science museum and concert hall.


Over on the Left Bank, academic institutions still abound in the Latin Quarter amid medieval churches and Roman remains, spreading east to the new university and business district around the modern Bibliothèque Nationale François Mitterrand. Farther west are St-Germain with its publishers, cafés and fashion boutiques, the Faubourg St-Germain and its ministries and embassies,

Centre Pompidou

This was ground-breaking when it opened in the Seventies, both for Piano and Rogers’s hi-tech architecture and its multidisciplinary approach, and is still one of the city’s most exciting buildings. The modern and contemporary art collection ranges from Picasso and Matisse to the latest trends in installation and video, complemented by temporary exhibitions, performing arts and cinema. It also has an excellent art bookshop and the trendy Georges

Opening times: Sun-Mon, 12 noon-9pm

Admission: €10-€12

Eiffel Tower


This is the monument we all think we know and yet, when you actually see the real thing, there’s still something astonishing about the metal structure, the ride up in the vintage lifts and, of course, the views. It was the tallest building in the world when it opened for the 1889 Exposition Universelle and was originally a temporary structure, decried by many, including Maupassant, who visited every day so he didn’t have to see it from afar. Note that queues are shorter if you come late at night.

Opening times: Mid-June to August daily, 9am-12.45pm (last lift to top 11pm); September to mid-June, 9.30am-11.45pm (last lift to top 10.30pm)

Admission: €13.10 \ lift to top; €4.50 \stairs to second level


Ile de la Cité

This island in the very centre of Paris is where the city could be said to have begun, circa 250BC as the settlement of Lutetia.

Visit the Gothic Notre-Dame Cathedral (most attractive viewed from behind with its flying buttresses), and, hidden amid Paris’s main law courts, two relics of the medieval palace: the glorious Flamboyant Gothic double-decker Sainte-Chapelle, with its 13th-century stained glass, and the vaulted halls and prison cells of the Conciergerie.

At either tip of the island are Place du Vert-Galant, a good place to take a boat trip, and the Mémorial de la Deportation, a sober monument to Second World War deportees.

Jardin des Plantes-Muséum national d’Histoire Naturelle
Descended from the royal medicinal garden and menagerie, the botanical garden is on a manageable scale but has plenty to occupy all ages, from alpine gardens and palmy hothouses to zoo, playgrounds and cafés.

Within the park, the Grande Galerie de l’Evolution brilliantly displays stuffed animals according to their habitat, while other buildings are dedicated to palaeontology and minerals.

Opening times: Park daily, 7.30am-7.45pm (until 5.30pm in winter); museums Wednesday-Monday, 10am-6pm

Admission: There is no charge for entry to the park, greenhouses €3 ,museums €7 ; zoo €8

Montmartre

Paris’s highest hill can seem too twee to be true, but it also has a villagey charm that makes it seem closer to Provence than Paris. Avoid the crowded Place du Tertre with its pseudo-artists, and explore the small cottage-lined alleys and stairways, the bars, food and fashion shops of rue des Abbesses, the vineyard and the cemetery. As for Sacré-Coeur Basilica, while most come here to admire the view from the steps, it is worth stepping inside to admire its riot of glitzy mosaics.


Musée du Louvre

Both art collection and royal palace, including parts of the medieval castle concealed in the basement, the Louvre is mind-boggling in its scale and sheer wealth of treasures: from Classical sculpture, Egyptian relics and Mesopotamian antiquities to the unmissable galleries of Italian Renaissance paintings, Rembrandts and Rubens, medieval artefacts and French neoclassical and Romantic painting. The secret to mastering the Louvre is to combine a few key works you definitely want to see with the discoveries you make by wandering aimlessly.
Opening times: Wed-Mon, 9am-6pm; some galleries open until 10pm on Wed and Fri Admission: €9.50

Musée Marmottan-Claude Monet

This Second Empire villa is one of Paris’s secret gems, with its wonderful array of Empire furniture and the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet, including several vibrantly coloured water-lily canvases, most of them donated by the artist’s family. Other Impressionists with works on display include Pissarro, Renoir, Caillebotte and Berthe Morisot.

Opening times: Tue, 11am-9pm; Wed-Sun, 11am-6pm

Admission: €9


Musée National du Moyen-Age

This lovely, intimate medieval museum is appropriately housed in the Gothic town house of the Abbots of Cluny, which was built over the substantial remains of a Roman baths complex. Highlights include Limoges enamels, sculptures from Notre-Dame, and the adorable Lady and the Unicorn tapestry cycle, a convoluted allegory of the senses.

Opening times: Wed-Mon, 9.15am-5.45pm

Admission: €8 


Musée du Quai Branly
The hugely popular museum of “arts premiers” (read “tribal art”, or non-Western art), in a quirky building by Jean Nouvel, goes for drama over scholarliness. The museography is a little chaotic and the labelling hard to fathom, but there’s an incredible array of sculptures, textiles, jewellery, ritual objects and musical instruments, complemented by interesting film footage.
Opening times: Tue, Wed and Sun, 11am-7pm; Thur-Sat, 11am-9pm Admission: €8.50 exhibitions €7 collection and exhibitions €10 


Musée National Rodin
The mansion where Rodin lived at the end of his life now contains an unrivalled collection of the sculptor’s work, arranged around its rooms and beautiful garden. In finished works and countless studies for the great Balzac, the Burghers of Calais or the figures that swarm all over the Gates of Hell, you can trace how he revolutionised sculpture at the end of the 19th century.
Opening times: Tue-Sat, 9.30am-5.45pm (until 4.45pm in winter)
Admission: €6





The Paris opera is a glamorous experience. Catch Tosca and Wagner’s Götterdämmerung at Opéra Bastille, or the Bolshoi ballet when it drops into Garnier.

Day trips

Versailles

If you make just one excursion, then it should be to Versailles easily reached by RER. Louis XIV’s vast château, with its extravagant ceilings, hall of mirrors and formal gardens, is an ode to royal absolutism. The town, snooty and bourgeois, is worth a look, too.


Fontainebleau

There’s another grand royal château at Fontainebleau (, a mixture of Renaissance and Napoleonic this time. The surrounding forest is popular for walking, rock-climbing and mushroom hunting. Trains to Fontainebleau leave from Gare de Lyon. If going by car, be prepared for traffic jams on the return to Paris.


St-Denis

The suburb of St-Denis is home to the Stade de France national stadium and the Basilique St-Denis (The latter, birthplace of Gothic architecture and burial place of the French monarchy, has a collection of extravagant tombs.


Reims
• TGV high-speed trains have changed the relative geography of France and mean that Reims is just 45 minutes from Paris Gare de l’Est, allowing plenty of time

Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Eat Among Famous Baccarat Crystal in Paris

Paris diners in search of a glamorous environment can enjoy a superb meal at the headquarters of famous Baccarat crystal. The Cristal Room Restaurant is a wonderland of designer Phillippe Starck’s imagination—from rustic brick walls and pink upholstery to glittering Baccarat chandeliers, candelabras, gilt mirrors and, of course, impeccable table settings crowned with sparkling glasses and goblets. The menu is haute French cuisine, the wine list rises to every occasion, and a special bubbly is the obvious indulgence. The Baccarat Gallery Museum, which takes up an additional four rooms in the mansion, displays more than 500 objects, including legendary masterpieces, limited editions and commissioned works. The “factory” room informs visitors on the four-element process of producing some of the world’s finest crystal.
Cristal Room Baccarat

1 Place des États-Unis, Paris

Hours: Every day for lunch and dinner

Reservations: 01.40.22.11.10

The Baccarat Gallery-Museum: Open every day except Christmas and New Year’s Day, 9 – noon, and 2 – 6 p.m.

Monday, February 21, 2011

My Favorite London Hotel is playing Host to Kate and Edward ( Royal Wedding)

My favorite of all time hotel in London is the VERY British hotel, the Goring. Over 100 years old and it's still owned and run by the Goring family. Across from Buckingham Palace is has been the favorite of Royals to stay there and was used a lot by the late Queen Mother to have her teas here with friends. What makes this intimate hotel very special is the people who work there, from the dynamic owner and manager, Jeremy Goring, to jovial GM David Hewitt-Morgan and the entire staff who makes you feel like a Duke and Duchess during your stay. So it came as no surprise to me, when it was announced today that the Middleton family ( Kate Middleton’s parents) are taking over the hotel to host the Royal wedding Party.
With only the A-listers invited to the wedding breakfast hosted by the Queen, a less elite celebration is being planned on the other side of the walls of Buckingham Palace at the Goring.. The Goring will to be hosting a garden party for friends and family of the royal couple, whose invitation does not stretch beyond the Westminster Abbey service. The hotel will host Kate Middleton on her last night as a commoner.

















Friday, February 18, 2011

Avignon - Venice Of the South Without Water

Land of contrasts," the old travelogues inevitably said, but nowhere does the venerable formula apply more perfectly than to Avignon, a Provençal jewel tucked into a bend on the left bank of the Rhône.

Historically it is both saintly and wildly secular. There's the savage wind of a winter's day and the crystalline blue skies of the very next one. There's the confused jumble of medieval streets and the stately beauty of the mansions piled into them. There's the quiet of the little squares that dot the ancient city and the raucousness of the Place de l'Horloge. There's also the grandeur of its walls, the elegance of its 16th- and 17th-century facades, and the incredible banality of recent construction.
Avignon is one of my favorite cities in Provence for more years than I care to remember and my feelings about it are also a study in contrasts. For as much charm as the city holds, there's also the baking heat of a midsummer day and the vast frustration of driving to it and into it. My own voice of experience about driving says try not to. Take the train (if coming from Paris) . And if you are driving, head directly for the parking garage underneath the Palais des Papes and leave your car there. Part of the city's appeal is that the vieille ville inside the ancient ramparts is comfortably walkable. And it's the only part of Avignon that's really interesting.
High on the list of contrasts is the Papal Palace itself, the largest single medieval structure in France It still makes an impression, seven hundred years after the popes installed the Holy See in Provence in 1309, the beginning of the papal period that eventually led to competing popes during Western Christianity's Great Schism, which finally ended in the early 15th century. But for seven papal reigns over seven decades, Avignon was the center of the Christian world.
If you do park underneath the Papal Palace, when you climb the stairs to exit you'll emerge into the vast Place that faces the Palace. Pause to grasp the massive scale, and go inside for a tour now or later. The building itself is mostly what you'll see—all 3.7 acres of it, divided into Benedict's Palais Vieux and Clement's Palais Neuf. Warning: don't expect much furniture that one comes to expect in larger Chateaux. There is hardly any!
By the clock
My starting point for wandering around the city is the Place de l'Horloge, the site of the old Roman Forum and still the vital center of the city. The Banque de France sits as sentinel at the upper edge, and along the right-hand side other official buildings line up monumentally—city hall, the municipal theater. But a colorful old merry-go-round lightens the atmosphere and suggests that there's fun to be had, not just a history lesson.
If you have time and inclination, pick a café and order an express. Sit with your guidebooks, get oriented, and enjoy the passing scene. The people-watching is rewarding, especially on a sunny day. (The cafés zip themselves up inside transparent plastic wrap when it's drizzling or the sharp mistral wind whips down the Rhône and lays a Siberian chill over the Provençal plain.)
The 14th-century clock tower that gives the Place de l'Horloge its name is now part of the Hôtel de Ville, which was once a cardinal's residence. The long noisy square and the showcase rue de la République that leads directly into it offer a kind of natural divide between workaday Avignon in a welter of streets to the east, and the antique and specialty shops to the west. Don't miss either section as you wander.
Leading west from the Place, you'll find the rue Molière and the rue Corneille—statues of those great playwrights in front of the theater serve as effective street markers, guiding you to the city's elegant antique shops, high-end boutiques, intimate restaurants, grand hotels and two of the city's most important museums—the Musée Calvet and the Lambert Collection of contemporary art.
East of the Place de l'Horloge, a tangle of streets not sorted out since the days of the popes leads mazelike toward the Place des Carmes, the sumptuous houses off the rue Banasterie, the Place Pie and the central market with its strange, plant-covered vegetal wall. If your wanderings are truly rewarded, you'll happen upon the quiet, sun-dappled rue des Teinturiers. Lined with plane trees, it's only a few blocks long, and the abandoned boutiques and restaurants speak sadly of ideas that didn't quite work.

The rue des Teinturiers was once awash in dye works and textile manufacture. It parallels a short stretch of the Sorgue, the river that now runs mostly underneath the city before flowing into the Rhône. Its water now serves chiefly to keep the ancient plane trees vibrant, but once upon a time the river powered the textile mills. Four paddle wheels, rusty in their decrepitude, are vestiges of the score of print works that once brought wealth to factory owners and jobs to the working class. . The Provençal fabrics that now bear such labels as Souleiado and Les Olivades are other vestiges of that once potent industry.
Cardinal points
The Holy See brought many princes of the Church to Avignon, and each acquired a palace for himself. Later, opponents of Avignon as the Church's HQ blamed the proximity of France as a corrupting influence because it made cardinals imitate the royal court in displays of wealth and grandeur.
None of the cardinals' mansions were as grand as the Papal Palace, but many were grand indeed. In French they are called "livrées cardinalices"—and there's a choice of explanations for the term. Perhaps it was used because in the beginning the mansions were "liberated" from their owners. Or because they were livrée—delivered—to cardinals by supplicants in an early example of lobbying. Or—still another explanation, one with great metonymic flourish—because their servants were in livrée, or livery, the whole ensemble came to be known as livrées. Whatever the explanation, today's McMansions don't hold a votive candle to them.

The most striking of the residences and the most accessible is the Petit Palais, an expansive building situated next to the Papal Palace and now Avignon's major museum. Among its best treasures is an important collection of 13th- to 16th-century French and Italian paintings and sculpture.

The Hôtel de Ville was another of the livrées. You can walk inside during office hours and read the historical explanations, but it's just City Hall now and it gives no sense of medieval splendor. Any of the popular tourist guides can take you to other livrées that are still standing, like the Livrée Ceccano, which now houses a médiathèque, or multipurpose media library. Facing it, the Musée Angladon offers a collection that includes Manet, Cézanne, Derain, Picasso and Les Wagons de Chemin de Fer, the only Van Gogh left in Provence. Like other significant sites, these are marked and well explained, in French, by signs posted all over town.

Song and dance
Nowadays Avignon is also famous for its summer theater festival. For three weeks each July the city is chockablock with spectators and spectacle for what is touted as the world's biggest and most important theater festival.
Throughout the rest of the year, the colorful murals that adorn many walls around town bear witness both to famous theatrical performances of the past and the contemporary event that Avignon is best known for. Looking down on the street, the actors are locked forever in a single pose in their trompe l'oeil role playing, which takes fantasy to a high level indeed.
But for a lot of us, more than the Papal Palace and more than the theater festival, it's a song that underlies Avignon's reputation. A song, and the famous bridge, where "l'on y danse, l'on y danse". For centuries the Pont Saint Bénezet has been the archetypical bridge to nowhere, reaching only half way out toward the bucolic Ile de la Barthelasse in the middle of the Rhône.
Once upon a time, before a flood swept away all but four of its original 22 arches, the Pont Saint Bénezet spanned the entire Rhône and led to Villeneuve-lès-Avignon. It was once an international crossing, from papal Avignon to Philip the Fair's France. The tower where the bridge ended still bears Philip's name. He built the tower, according to legend, as a fortress to keep an eye on the goings-on at the Papal Palace.

The song gets it wrong, by the way. Sur le pont d'Avignon, l'on y danse tout en rond — or so we sing. But it wasn't on the bridge, or sur, but under the bridge, sous, that the dancing took place. Under the bridge and on Barthelasse, once known for its guinguettes, or outdoor taverns with music for warm weather dancing.

Do pay the fee and walk out onto the bridge, or dance out if you want—chances are you won't be the only one—just to be able to look back at the medieval skyline imposed by the big palace, the little one, and of course the ramparts. As far as the eye can see it's all battle-worthy crenellations and towers, incongruously topped off by the golden statue of the Virgin above Notre Dame des Doms, the cathedral adjoining the palace complex.

Aside from the palace, the ramparts are Avignon's most visible and striking feature, and one of the best examples of medieval fortification in existence. There were walls when the popes arrived in the early 14th century, but the papacy's presence led to urban sprawl, and the new areas built outside the old walls were under frequent threat from marauding thieves.
So the popes built new walls, and those are basically what encircles Avignon today—stone walls 2.5 miles long and 30 feet high, with ports of entry in a number of the square towers. Originally there were 35 tall towers and 50 smaller ones, with a dozen gates. But restoration projects over the centuries have demolished towers and built new ones, and pierced new entries too. The moats that once provided additional security have long since been filled in, although there is a proposal to reconstruct them—a project that won't cheer anyone looking for a space in the extra-muros parking lots surrounding the city.
Although there's now a charge for the Pont Bénezet, most of the visual pleasure of Avignon requires no entrance fee.

I think of Avignon as Venice without water. The streets are as tangled and meandering as Venice's calle, and little leafy squares relieve the traffic. In your wanderings don't miss the Promenade des Papes, which circles the palace and leads through the Place Maria Casarès. There in a building known as the Manutention—which once supplied food and medicine for a military barracks nearby—a sort of artisans' colony has sprung up, with ateliers for an art restorer, a glass engraver, a sculptor and a photographer. A movie theater in the square specializes in foreign films, all presented in their original languages. And there's a café, of course, with the golden image of the Virgin hovering high above.