For 50 years the "Relais & Chateaux hotel group has been making dreams come true by staying faithful to the "5 C’s" Courtesy, Charm, Character, Calme & Cuisine.
They have always been my go too, for clients visiting anywhere in France. Every hotel is independently owned and must have the 5 ‘Cs to even be considered into the exclusive Relais/Chateaux family.
You don't have to go to St Tropez or Cannes to get your fix of Provencal chic. Inland from the coastal tourist traps, among pretty villages, wineries, pine forests, lakes, mountains and lavender fields, you’ll find stylish cozy rural retreats with great kitchens.
This year, I visited once again, the number #1 tourist choice for Americans ( for many, many years), beyond Paris of course, that of ,Provence.
Most, if not all visitors want to see the Provence area that encompasses ( for tourists) Avignon–to the Luberon Valley and everything in between and I will admit this area has lots to offer.
This year I decided to check out the area just north of Avignon; an area of Provence called the Drome. Well, not actually the official part of Provence, its part of the Rhone-Alps region (if you must know) but because it’s so beautiful and so close to Provence, I consider it part of Provence; in my way of thinking.
For American’s it's rarely visited and yet it offers what Provence must have looked like and felt some 50 years ago; what we in France call La France Profonde ( deep France) – an area holding true to its origins , holding back the face of international mass culture.
The Drome retains its charm and peacefulness of rural Provence, with olive groves, lavender fields and vineyards belonging to the Cote du Rhone wine region. Here also you’ll find fruit orchards and black truffles, lots of Medieval villages are scattered throughout the countryside; especially the ‘knock-your-socks’ off medieval village of Grignan is a must to visit.
On my recent drive from Lyon to the Luberon valley, I decided to exit the major highway, just above the Roman city of Orange and stayed overnight in the village of St Paul-Trois- Chateaux (near Bollene). Located in a charming town of 8000 inhabitants, is the romantic and cozy, Roman style hotel (this area don’t forget was settle by the Romans over 2000 years ago) – Villa Augusta. This hotel and village is a good jumping off place for day trips to see the area comfortably.
The hotel is part of the Relais/Chateaux hotel group and is run by its charming owners – David and Priscilla MOLLICONE.
Priscilla is charming and vivacious and her sunny presence really makes this hotel work, if you want the truth. Both she and David offer their special brand of gentle French hospitality and have genuine enthusiasm for welcoming their guests. The rooms (a few over looking a Roman style pool) are a bit on the contemporary side, but cozy and comfortable. Here at the hotel, you are in the heart of the town and walking from the hotel, you can explore this charming historic village.
If I had at first a minor issue, it was that the hotel is next door to an elementary school and during the day you do hear (not seen though) children making noise while playing in the school yard., BUT on reflection, I must admit, it’s a wonderful sound, because you are hearing the voice of a true French village in all its facets. It’s alive and that is what French village life should be and what you should be looking for.
As with all Relais/Chateaux hotels/inns, top cuisine is a must and the kitchen of chef MOLLICONE is no an exception, and his food, I will go so far as to say, is exceptional. The dining room is not formal, but laid back and relaxed , as it should be in Provence,(attracting lots of locals, when I ate here and that’s always a good sign anywhere) and the food is as good as you would find at any Michelin starred restaurant in France. The food and presentation is not pretentious (Thank goodness), but is straight forward, well plated (not over the top silly – that kind you’ll find in many French ( and USA) restaurants today) and it has taste! Can I say that again, it has taste! It’s seasoned well and prepared well;(
oh! and don't forget the wine from this most famous vineyard area!) TASTE - something that chefs in the USA don’t seem to have a concept of these days. They should come here and maybe they would learn a thing or two from this master of the Drome area.
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so.......stand by for part two, the exploration of the Drome area…………
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