The Seafood Restaurant of Your Dreams - Chez Jacky

It's Friday afternoon, in Beverly Hills, and the end of a long and difficult work week what with the French Rail and air strike this past week. My thoughts right know are in the southern part of Brittany, in one of the lesser-known estuaries, down a dead-end road and here you'll find one of the great seafood restaurants in the region. Not fancy, not a sit down with fine linen and flatware, no!! but a small place with simple tables in an cluttered interior or on a gorgeous open-air terrace, it is here you'll find a cornucopia of seafood ( shellfish that is) in a ravishingly beautiful riverfront setting. Chez Jacky to be exact. 
If you are from Southern or northern California, are a vegetarian or worse yet, a vegan, or if you are someone who must have this and that on the aside, someone who can only eat this or that............. please turn away, this is not for you. 

The Peninsula Paris - I Can't Wait - Opens 01 August..........

The Peninsula Hotel makes its grand entrance ( the first into Europe) with its new hotel in Paris set to open this August.
Situated on ave Kleber, just steps from the Arc de Triomphe, this new hotel is in a refurbished 19th century Haussmanian building and it should have other major luxury hotels starting to' shake in their boots', I think.
Six years in the making, this is certainly going to be a WOW in Paris.
I visited the hotel last year on a hard hat tour and even then, you could tell this was going to be something special.

Loire Valley - Night-Time Walk at the Chateau de Chenonceau

In the summer, the royal Chateau de Chenonceau relives the magic of the extravagant celebrations of the Renaissance. From mid July to the end of August, this night-time walk takes in the chateau and its gardens and estate, highlighting the prevailing harmony between nature and architecture. The music of Corelli will be playing during your walk.

Short Weekend Breaks From Paris - Strasbourg

Strasbourg ( one of my favorite cities in France) is only 2-1/2 hour by train from Paris.
Now in the old section ( the most charming section of the city - called Le Petit France) a new hotel just at the edge of this section has just opened. Located in what was years ago, the National Stud Farm. Les Haras is a 4 star hotel built in a contemporary flair, a Brasserie restaurant managed by the 3 star Alsatian chef, Marc Haeberlin and decor by the famous designer-architect Jouin-Manku, this is the new kid on the block. The mesmerizing and secret place built in the middle of the 18th century along the medieval ramparts of the town is classified as a historical mounument since 1922.
I look forward this fall to staying there and checking it out.

http://www.les-haras-hotel.com/

Court Of Scents in Versailles

Versailles, an emblematic place in the history of perfumes in France ever since the 18th century is still the meeting place for the world's greatest noses. 
The Cour des Senteurs a mere 100 meters from the main gates of the Palace of Versailles is now home and hub to the great luxury French brands such as Guerlain - Lenotre - Diptyque and Maison Fabre to name a few and it is here that you'll find olfactory trail enabling you to discover the adventure of the great French perfumers in the Maison des Parfums. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 7pm

Louis XIV to Louis XVI At The Louvre - Forget Versailles is My Advise

If you follow my blog, you'll know that I am not enamored of Versailles ( Vaux-de-Vicomte and Chantilly are far more interesting) and now, the Louvre newly re-opened 18th Century period rooms has interiors that RIVALS Versailles. 
Now over two thousand exhibits are designed to shed light on both the technical and stylistic history from the reign of Louis XIV up to the French Revolution. Great care has been taken in refurbishing period rooms in order to give viewers a clearer understanding of this luxurious art of living.

Edith Piaf Died This Week 50 Years Ago - Sous Le Ciel de Paris

A Find in Brittany - Benodet - Nantucket - La Jolla Rolled Into One

Last month, I happen to come across a lovely seaside resort town of Benodet ( South Finistere Brittany) which is at the mouth of what many in France say is the most beautiful river, The Odet. The town has a large sandy beach edged with wooded dunes. Because, as is most of Brittany, is heavily tidal, it is used by hundreds of water birds. 
There are wonderful 2 hour cruises up the river ( May to Sept) and also to outlining the Archipelago Glenan islands. 
There are lovely Condos and 3 star hotels here and many restaurants and cafes. The town seems squeaking clean and just the place it relax. There is even a casino. a great place for children I am told. Most visitors are French. But don't let that stop you.
Next door is the lush community of Fouesnant, with its deep woods and meadows and beautiful (knock your socks off) homes. This area is the cider-making capitol of France ( The national drink of Brittany). 
Just down the road is Pont-Aven and the historic fortress port of Concarneau. Both worth a day trip.
Quimper is just north; although in my opinion, its a miss, there are other better medieval towns elsewhere in France.

The Spirit of Brittany - Memories of my trip in May

Paris In The 1950's - Now That Was A Time

On this Sunny Friday in Beverly Hills, I am missing my Paris, more to the point the Paris of my youth in the 1950's and the following clip from the 1950's movie - 'Funny Face' - will give you a good idea of what Paris looked like in the the 1950's.
Its fun and ya know......................................., the city is still beautiful..............
.it always will remains so.

Roscoff, Brittany, France - My New Found Love!

The town of Roscoff, in northern Brittany, is as disarming a granite-built little port as any in Brittany, Coastal southwest England or American's Maine coastline villages to be exact. 
The town, although it seems like a village, is open to the sea but drawn tight round the community. Shipping and free-booting wealth equipped it with a framework of fine solid 216th and 17th century houses. Some fishing continues and good beaches ( somewhat cold to swim in) have a generous coating of pleasure seekers. 
Brittany like its two other regions in France ( Alsace and Corsica) are very independent and have their own culture, language, music and customs. Brittany is closer to southern England and Ireland in many ways than to France. In fact  Ferries from Ireland and Plymouth come into port every day. The music you hear all over Brittany is Celtic. Close you eyes and you'll think you are in Ireland. 
The storybook harbor and towns buildings are trimmed with flowers and  it is one of the , if not the most pleasing places to stay for awhile anywhere in France.

It's also the home to the Onion Jonnies - these were Breton Farm men who used to cycle around Britain, peddling their local pink onions ( and are they great!) door-to-door With berets, hooped shirts and bikes laden with onion-string, they established the caricature of Frenchmen for British people who rarely saw any others. 

There are two wonderful hotels here, also the boat 15 minutes over to the tropical island of Batz, After Roscoff drive east along the most fantastic coastline called 'the Pink Granite' coast to another wonderful town called Perros-Guirec.
If I had to live in France ( which I want to do) then Roscoff would be where I would end my days; happy and content,no question about it. Brittany and Roscoff have captured my heart and soul.
Email me about more details of this magical place.   

I Am Back From My Month In France

My travels took me to Brittany - Northern and Western Finistere ( Like having to pick your favorite child - what is my favorite area of France? well, truth be told.. its Brittany - the New England of France), then I flew to Lyon and headed a bit north to the Beaujolais area ( much more dramatic than its neighbor Burgundy in my opinion) and then worked my way south towards Provence - Northern Provence first , in the Drome area ( the hidden part of Provence) and then into the Luberon Valley ( the heart of Provence) and then drove to the Marseilles airport to catch a flight to Paris and then 30 minutes north a new hotel, a new and fabulous hotel in Chantilly and its chateaux. Photo below.

Forget Versailles, this is the place along with the Vaux-le-Vicomte Chateaux south of Paris. 

In between a few restaurant highlights, including Anne Sophie Pic's new bistro in Valance. 

So, stand by for more in-depth reports of my trip........

I am Off To France For a Month - Hurrah!

Dear Readers
I am off to France for about a month and so I'll pick up blogging on my return in late may.
If you ask? I am visiting my beloved Brittany and then on to northern Provence to check out new and old hotels to see how they are doing for my clients.

oh yes! I am eating some of the most glorious food in the world and enjoying the company of French old and new friends ( they are the best)

French City Pass - See More - Pay Less - Everyone Likes a Bargain

Paris, being the first, offers for many years past, a Museum pass that allows you entrance to over 70 Paris ( in and out of the city) museums. There is also a Paris Visite card that gives you unlimited transport on the Metro and Paris buses.

Now other major cities within France are getting on the bandwagon to do the same. 
Besides Paris - Lyon - Nice - Nantes  -Dijon offer passes that include discounts in the cities sites and transportation. All can be bought at the local tourist offices. 

If you are visiting Normandy and its War Museums - they offer a pass for only 1 Euro ( bought at the first War Museum ) you visit and  then is good for discounts at any of the scores of other War Museums spread out along the Normandy Coast.

D-Day 70 years later - Celebration in Normandy

This year being the 70th anniversary of the invasion of Europe - D Day as it was known, will be a celebration with Heads of State from many countries, including President Obama will be attending. 
There are many sites in the greater D Day area and one, albeit somewhat touristy ( but hey, we are all tourists, no?) is the Arromanches 360 museum. 
Here is a look at what goes on in the museum. 


http://www.arromanches360.com/en/ - here is the site to give you more information.

My Little French Secret – Just Two Miles off The Atlantic Coast of France ( 3 Hours By Train from Paris)

For those you like me; who liked the French films of the 1950’s (Hey, there are still some of us around) where everyone cycles slowly down endless French roads, wearing Breton shirts and smiling Bonjours! ,where rabbits hop around gardens; where children don’t scream and the sound of the lone church bell is the only thing disturbing the piece, then the Ile de Re is a place for you.

Two miles off the Atlantic coast, facing La Rochelle likes a place that time forgot. There isn’t even any sign of electricity cable, they are tastefully buried underground. There is no noon or plastic signs, no billboards’, no bright, garish front doors – this small island oozes taste, class, simplicity and quiet. If New York is a city that never sleeps, Ile de Re is the island that never wakes up.

Here you’ll find an island of whitewashed fishermen’s villages, fine sand breaches, wild hollyhocks, salt marshes and a climate that shares the privilege with the Cote d’Azur as being one of the sunniest regions in France. The vegetation is surprisingly southern, almost Mediterranean, pine trees and palms grow well here.

Although in the summer, 100,000 tourists visit, they have not spoiled Re’s charm and off-season, the island is lived-in but tranquil.

Accommodations range from deluxe to simple inns, the food is spectacular – seafood – fresh galore! And there are even a few vineyards on the island producing quite nice wine.

There are about 10 lovely fishing villages that dot the island. Romantic harbors abound.

But the thing to do here (there are over 60 miles of bike trails – flat! And yes, you can rent bikes here after you settle in) narrow lanes that connect villages, vineyards, wood and beaches. They take you where cars can’t.

The island is also home to many famous French personalities – from the film/theatre world and Politics.

There is NO volleyball nets or lifeguards, no jet-skis, no smoky BBq’s or People selling you slices of pineapples and coconuts – no, its just you and nature and great food and a place to come down, relax and be QUIET!

If you have to ask, Howard, what is there to do? Then please don’t come, for this place is not and never will be for you!

Malmaison - Not As Crowded as Versailles and Just As Beautiful

Those who follow my blog will know that Versailles ( must do once, I suppose) is not my favorite monument in France, for there are many others more beautiful. - Chantilly and Vaux-le-Vicomte come readily to mind. 
I  can add to that group, the Chateau de Maimasion ( just outside Paris) which was the home of Josephine ( yes - that Josephine - Napoleons first wife). The Chateau (with fabulous furniture inside) contains a remarkable panorama of art of the Consular period. The grounds are lovely also. 
http://www.chateau-malmaison.fr/en

For Incurable romantics only – if not, read no further please

 As an unabashed romantic, the restaurant Laperouse on the Left bank has always been a favorite of mine. Sure, maybe time has passed it by, at least by today’s so-called ‘Hot’ Restaurants standards (in my humble opinion) most serve boring cuisine – they in fact have reversed alchemy - this time taking gold and turning into lead. They presented cuisine with over 33 ingredients, they pile food on plates ever higher and higher, they embrace, chemical legerdemain with foams and such– boring, their menus read like Tolstoy’s novel of War and Piece and yet satisfy nothing – in short, if you ask me, those so called ‘new,’hot’ restaurants strike me as silly and in my opinion (and that’s what counts, don’t you know) the cuisine would not stimulate the appetite of a starving boa constrictor.

Have I lost some of you..Good!

Ah! But, since 1766 a ‘knock your socks off’ restaurant with Belle Epoch décor, a restaurant romantic beyond belief and a cuisine that harkens back to the good basics of French cooking is still alive. If you are looking for ‘in’ and ‘hot’ and ‘trendy’, this is not the place for you.

What is very special here, is the salons Prive or private rooms, found off the main dining room. These private rooms were set up for the social and political types of there day for illicit liaisons with the then famous Courtesans of the day. Here lovers ate and loved together and the ladies received their payment in the form of diamonds, who would then in turn ,scratch the mirror alongside the wall to make sure they were not fake diamonds and today...... those scratches still remain.

So, if you are inclined to be romantic, take your lover or even your wife and spend an evening in some one of the 10 romantic rooms ( Les Salons Prives) at the restaurant and don't forget..as the song goes.....'That Diamonds are a girls best friend'.

Bouillabaisse - In the South Of France - Not in Marseilles

Le Mere Germaine restaurant in Villefranche-sur-Mer ( between Nice and Monaco) has been a gourmet landmark since 1938. Its specialty is fish and seafood and its famous Bouillabasse of course. The other famous Bouillabasse restaurant is the 'tony' Tatou; located in Cagnes-sur-Mer. Many people feel that its too snobby and expensive for them ( Snobby to me?, No, but expensive for sure!), so I can recommend le Mere Germaine without hesitation.
http://www.meregermaine.com/en/

Villefranche for movie goers of a certain age, was one location where Cary Grant and Deborah Kerr stopped to see his grandmother in the movie 'An Affair To Remember"..

                     (The Village of Villefranche-sur-Mer)

            OK, so I'm an unabashed romantic, I'll admit it!

Once Upon A Time The Orient Express in Paris

If you happen to be in Paris between now and the 31st of August and wish to relive ( but not have to pay the hefty fee taking the real Orient Express train these days) I can suggest dropping over to the Arab World Institute on the Left bank and visit one of the original early 20th century rail cars of the Orient Express. Here was a time when people aspired to a moment of calm and slowness in their speedy world.
Within the resorted car are snippets of James Bond, Josephine Baker, Agatha Christie and countless other writers and artists. 
Visitors are NOT allowed to sit in the coach, except, after it closes for the day; some Famous French chefs ( included Yannick Alleno) will be serving dinner at Euro 165 per person, if you wish to try that).

All Aboard!!

Air France - Why Fly them?..So Many Reasons...................

A hard look at the truth in Air travel from an old curmudgeon.
Hey! It's my blog and I can say anything I wish! :)

I have flown a lot from Los Angeles to Paris over the past 30 years on not just Air France, but on American  Delta and United Airlines.
One of the pluses of flying into a country on that countries Official carrier is that you get a 'taste of that country' right away while on board. 
I have been flying since the late 1940's and have seen many changes in the airline industry - many good and many bad.
I don't wish to appear sexist, but have you seen American flight attendants lately? Especially on long runs ( the senior women and men get those routes) - 
the American epidemic of Obesity seems to have taken hold of flight attendants, recently on an American carrier to Europe, the flight attendant could barley get down the aisle, she was a 'bit over-weight', have you noticed those American carriers flight attendants appear have have just woken up, they look so unkempt, have you noticed they seem to have the American attitude toward customers that seems combative ( of course clients today can be combative, I'll give you that).
All in All, As Shakespeare once remarked 'Where is the life of late, I lead?".
 So, next time you wish to hearken back to the 'good old days' of flying, try Air France..one thing for sure, the Flight attendants look like they were just hired off the fashion runway.

VIVE LA FRANCE!

My Love of Monaco - Remembering Grace Kelly

<">One of my favorite places, besides France, is the Principality of Monaco. Although I grew up in the 1950's viewing Grace Kelly on the silver screen ( yes! I had a boyhood crush on her, I will admit), when she became Princess Grace of Monaco, that's when I started to fall in love with Monaco. I have happily spent a lot of time there and even thought she is gone, her spirit still lives on in that fabled country.
The Tate Museum in London recently had an exhibition of her life in photos  and here is a short film in honor of her.
Next time you want to visit Monaco/Monte Carlo, please call me.

Good Food in Montmartre? - No Way..But Now...a Resounding YES! LE COQ RICO

Montmartre ( in my humble opinion) has never been known for great food or restaurants..that said, I can know report that Antonie Westermann ( one of my favorite chefs - Droument) has opened a fantastic restaurant( ( open, mind you 7 days a week) whose menu is only based on a single-ingredient - Poultry! meaning - Chicken, guinea fowl ( my favorite always), duck and pigeon and each one comes with its own pedigree and the name of the farmer - how fresh is that? . He uses all parts of those tender birds, including kidneys, hearts , wings and livers ( the stuff you usually toss away at home.)

The restaurant is cozy, bright and modern and you can sit at the counter or in one or two of the small dining rooms.
The Challans farm raised chicken is a wonder
THIS PLACE IS HOT AND RESERVATIONS ARE A MUST. 
Note: Please, please don't be an American and ask for things on the side or cooked without! If so, please don't come!
By the way Le Coq Rico means ---cock-a-doddle-do 
http://www.lecoqrico.com/

TGV - France's Bullet Train now goes from Paris to Barcelona in just over 6 hours!!

To me, The Rail system in France is the best in the world and if you have never tried it, you are missing something very special.
Mark Smith, the brilliant blogger behind "The Man In Seat 61" - a website devoted to the wonders of rail travel in Britain and in Europe, has allowed me to share with you - his video log of his trip on the new train from Barcelona to Paris. Its a great insight into how the TGV runs and looks.
http://www.seat61.com/Paris-to-Barcelona-by-TGV-train.htm#.UzmDzKhdVj0
( the click-on above has a larger view of the ride and is recommended to see rather than the smaller version below)

Auberge du Jeu de Paume - Once This Country Estate Domain Illustrious Enough to Entertain Kings, is Now a 5 Star Hotel

Forget Versailles – when it comes to kock-your-socks off beauty; the two most beautiful (anywhere in France) chateaux are the Vaux-le-Vicomte ( south of Paris) and Chantilly ( north of Paris).

Chantilly is only 15 miles from the Charles de Gaulle airport, so it makes a stay over the night before you depart for home or a stay over inbound, to recover from jet lag the way to go!

 Now Chantilly has a hotel to rival its fantastic surroundings –                             The Auberge du Jeu Paume. 

This romantic getaway within an hour of Paris is an example of kid-glove French hotel-keeping at its best. The rooms are cosseting and pretty, the magnificent grounds of the Domaine de Chantilly perfect for long romantic walks. Though the young staff has been trained in the best old-school Gallic grand-hotel traditions, they're still warm, friendly, and eager to please, making this elegant auberge feel more relaxed than a big-city hotel. Chef Arnaud Faye runs two superb restaurants—a gastronomic table and a brasserie—and the bar serves good croque monsieurs, cheeseburgers, and other light fare.

                          Contact me for a special ‘last Night in France Package

                                           Chateau de Chantilly is near-by

La Mer - Before Bobby Darin, The Man Who Made it Famous - Charles Trenet

See France - By It's Canals - Slow Travel - The Way France Is Meant To Be Seen

Every year I rent a self-drive barge and discover France anew - le Boat is the company of choice and its the most fantastic way to really to Le France Profonde ( Deep France) 

2014 - 70th Anniversary of D Day

Next year is the 70th anniversary of D Day and the liberation of France.
Although its too late to book something around the first 2 weeks of June (The official celebration of that famous day) , any other time of year is perfect to Visit Normandy. Beautiful, fascinating Normandie

A Country B&B charm meets sophisticated style (and a serious spa!) - just 20 minutes outside Paris

I have just returned from a weekend at a lovely retreat just outside Paris and I can tell you, this will be my retreat for a few days every time I am in Paris ( which is 3 to 4 times a year).

                                         LES ESTANGS DE COROT

A Country B&B charm meets sophisticated style (and a serious spa!), just twenty minutes from downtown Paris’s  and ten minutes from the Chateau de Versailles.

Les Etangs de Corot is a delightful refuge where guests ( 95 % French clientele)  can relax in country-chic accommodations, explore beautiful nature trails, feast at a gastronomic restaurant, and get pampered in a world-class Caudalie Spa.

Les Etangs de Corot in Ville d’Avray is named for its historic setting, overlooking the ponds and forests that inspired many great painters and writers—notably the forefather of Impressionism, Camille Corot. Owned and operated by Alice and Jérôme Tourbier, who also run Les Source de Caudalie in Bordeaux, the 43-room hotel, combines upscale creature comforts with the charm and character of a weekend country house.

Utterly charming, Alice Tourbier’s smart and original interior design integrates antique furniture and contemporary decorative accents throughout the hotel. In a nod to the illustrious artists who spent time in Ville d’Avray, the guestrooms feature reproductions of 19th-century French landscape paintings. The cozy guestrooms and suites are individually decorated with family heirlooms and flea market finds (including secretary desks and brass lamps) and modern flourishes like bold Farrow & Ball patterned wallpaper and oversize mirrors. The suites feature a separate living room and rustic-chic slate bathrooms. The best guestrooms look out onto views of the forest and the lily pad–covered pond.

There are three in-house restaurants at Les Etangs de Corot, each offering a unique ambiance and menu. The gastronomic eatery Le Corot features large bay windows, high ceilings, chandeliers and dazzling blow-ups of the eponymous artist’s famous paintings. The menu does feature game (such as roasted venison with berries, celery, and quince wine sauce) there are also plenty of lighter options like a flaky John Dory fish flavored with ginger consommé and lime.

Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, Café des Artistes is a more casual dining option. With mismatched bistro chairs and no tablecloths, the ambiance here is more country-chic than Versailles-glam.. In the summer months, a third dining option is available. Les Paillotes is a lofted covered terrace overlooking the scenic greenery and pond where guests can dine en plein airon summery fare like pea and mint gazpacho, sea bass à la plancha, and strawberries and cream.

Like the Tourbier’s property in Bordeaux (Les Source de Caudalie), Les Etangs de Corot incorporates wine into all aspects of the hotel experience. For example, the long windowed hallway connecting the reception area to the bar/lounge is lined with 2,500 empty green bottles from the family’s château, Smith Haut-Lafitte. Complimentary glasses of wine offered upon arrival (which can be enjoyed at a moment of your choosing) make guests feel right at home, and a unique tap system in the hotel’s open cave next to Café des Artistes allows diners a rare chance to sample grand crus by the glass. But perhaps the most luxurious wine-related indulgences are hotel’s signature spa treatments, which feature products derived from grape vines as well as the grapes themselves. Known for antioxidant treatments and luscious skin-care products,Caudalie Vinothérapie® was developed by Alice Tourbier’s sister, Mathilde Thomas. The original spa is part of Les Source de Caudalie and the newest outpost, at Les Etangs, features a large outdoor hot tub, a water-massage area, and treatment rooms with beautiful views of the natural surroundings.

Couples looking to escape city life for a night or two of R&R without committing to a long haul will appreciate the fresh-air atmosphere, proximity to Versailles, and the luxurious spa treatments.

Just Back From Almost A Month in France - Details To Follow

                                        ( Howard in Strasbourg's Petit France District in Strasbourg) 
Christmas In France is always a joy, especially seeing the fabulous windows at the legendary Paris department store - Galeries Lafayette.
But Christmas is really special at the various Christmas Markets in Germany and Eastern France. If you have never been, then you are missing a spectacular celebration. 
In Alsace (Eastern France on the border of Germany) sits the city of Strasbourg. it is one of my favorite places to visit anytime I am in France. It's only a 2-1/2 journey train trip from Paris; an easy one day trip round-trip from Paris. 
Here you'll find many wonderful Christmas Markets selling not only tree decorations, but winter mulled-hot wine and food like local sausages and foie-gras. The city is beautifully decorated and the holiday spirits reins supreme here!
So stand by for more of my trip updates in the next few days.