An old hotel has become new again in Paris - Hurrah!

The Regina Hotel across from the Louvre museum at the corner of 2 Place des Pyramides and rue Rivoli for years has been a favorite of mine for a great moderate prices and set in one of the most magical places in Paris, but over the last few years it became very tired and too old fashioned; even for Mr. Stuffy ( Me!) but a year ago it was closed and the owners put into the refurbishment over 20 million euros and the hotel has just reopened and is a wow! 
The Regina is BACK!!!!!

                     My favorite  Eiffel Tower Suite is a must for anyone who is romantic

The Fountain of the Observatory at the Jardin du Luxembourg

If you don't know it by now, I am besotted with France and of course Paris.
The film Gigi was and is one of my favorite films and one of the great sites in Paris ( that almost no one knows about) is the Fountain of the Observatory.
When lite at night, its magical beyond belief.

A scandalous Art Nouveau collaboration that set Paris all atwitter at the turn of the century

Ave Rapp on the Left Bank is one of my hidden treasures that I always visit when in Paris. The avenue is home to several examples. It was built in 1901 by Jules Lavirotte, this seven-story creation is probably the most extreme example of the ornamental delirium that is Nouveau that the French capital has hidden away. Lavirotte didn't do it alone, but collaborated with his friends, the ceramist Alexandre Bigot and other fellow sculptors to create this flamboyant and voluptuous façade, making them winners of the annual architectural frontage of Paris that same year. It was also used in the film Gigi, as her aunts home.

Allard - A classic 1930's Bistro in the heart of the Latin Quarter is as good as ever, in fact even better

Located in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Près, Allard has remained one of the most sought after gourmet addresses in Paris for almost 80 years. Claude Layrac, passed the torch of this institution to Alain Ducasse  in 2013. 
 The restaurant remains imbued with the spirit of Marthe Allard, a 'mother Cook" who founded the establishment in 1932. This Burgundy peasant moved to Paris with all her family recipes, all personifying beautiful, local cuisine, sincere and generous. 
In this authentic Parisian Bistro, tradition remains alive and well. People come to enjoy the dishes that made the place famous, while relaxing in a warm and friendly setting : Challand duck with olives, shoulder of Limousin lamb, le Coq au vin or Cassoulet.

A Gift idea from the town of Lyon - Whimsical Blackboard Menu items

The boutique, Les Ardoises de Lyon, sells handcrafted slate decorations. In French bistros, menus are often written on slate boards cut into whimsical shapes, such as roosters, pigs, or chef’s hats. You can find these boards here, in many different forms and sizes, all hand cut from the regional stone. They make great gifts and they are flat—which makes them super easy to pack! Les Ardoises de Lyon 3 Rue Soufflot, Lyon www.lesardoisesdelyon.com Open Wednesday – Sunday, noon to 7 p.m. In December: open daily noon to 7 p.m.

Les Etanges de Corot Hotel -20 Minutes from Paris and yet 150 years back in time, but not lacking in today’s luxury

In the ville d’Avray is by no means in the deep countryside -- it is a prosperous-looking commuter town -- and the front door of the hotel is smack on the street. But this is deceptive: The place is built on a rise above the water, which in turn is populated by fish and ducks and is ringed by trees and walking paths. With extensive public woodland beyond, there's barely a hint of city life and certainly not a shred of evidence that you're so close to Paris. 

The public areas and ample guest rooms (with bucolic views) are tastefully decorated and very comfortable, with a wonderful touch of sophisticated whimsy: Corridors are hung with lithographs by Walton Ford; at first glance these look like excellent zoological watercolors or prints -- think Audubon -- but on closer examination they turn out to be fantastical, witty and sometimes macabre. On a rainy day, they'd afford hours of pleasure. 
Staff is unfailingly friendly, prompt and helpful. The hotel is operated by members of the Bordeaux-based family that owns the Smith Haut Lafitte vineyards and the Caudalie spa group –( Les Sources de Caudalie my favorite hotel in Bordeaux) , and sure enough there is a charming Caudalie spa one flight down, with calming treatment rooms and a big hydrotherapy pool (but remember: we're on a hill, so the lower level is light and airy, and there are pretty views out its windows). I like the fact that there is little new-age hocus-pocus about the spa, though a tiny dose of this is inevitable. No harm done, though: it's all relaxing and beneficial. 
There are two main restaurants and a bar, plus a café offering plenty of picturesque outdoor seating from April to October; I love the informal Café des Artistes, which offers a nice menu (two courses for €29/$40; three for €35/$48). the wine list is short but very good, drawing in part on the family's Bordeaux holdings, including the delicious Les Hauts de Smith white, which is I also love ( funny because I am not a white wine fan)

On the road - Starting the day in France for me.................

Always a lovely breakfast with of course, a cup or two of cafe cream and my faithful Michelin map to help work out the days itinerary.

Alsace is magical anytime of the year, but becomes really special during the Christmas Holidays

This is the region which has had a large influence over Christmas celebrations in France. The Christmas market is a long standing tradition there, and the proximity of Germany gives a ‘germanic touch’ that is much appreciated in France. The setting is perfect: old half-timbered houses richly decorated, an abundance of fairy lights, classical concerts in local churches, good food and Christmas cookies and gingerbread, all combine to offer an unforgettable magical experience, which when it snows gives the most traditional Christmas atmosphere!

If you are in Paris during this time, take the TGV bullet train to Strasbourg for a lovely day trip and you'll really get into the magic of this region.
Don't forget the hot wine and local sausages!! YUM!!!

A look at French meat - What to expect in France

French meat is totally different than you'll find in America. The cattle are different, raised different, they are not on a feedlot system.
They are breed in a way that reflects the tastes of the market. The French want meat with character and in American, the American's want meat that slices like butter. In France they prize taste rather than tenderness, so most American's do find the meat in France tough.

Excursions on the Cote d'Azur - 160 FREE activities

I'm not normally big on activity cards as many are over priced for what you need, but that said, The Nice Tourist office has come up with a brilliant Activity card that gives you 160 free activities that cover the entire coast of Southern France.
Its' called the Cote  d'Azur card and can be bought on line or at the local tourist offices in the French Riviera. 
For adults - the price for 3 days is Euro 39 and for 6 days is Euro 54
Some of the activities that are free are:
~ Nice open-air tour bus ( hop off and on)
~ The tour boats from Cannes to Ile St-Honorat and Ile Ste-Marguerite
~ Coastal day cruises from Nice
..and so much more......................

https://www.cotedazur-card.com/?lang=EN

In the heart of the Perigord Noir - A hotel Surprise - The Manior d'Hautegente

I just stayed in one of the most romantic hotels in France, located in the heart of the Perigod Noir.

The Maison Fleuri from DragonflyMedia on Vimeo.

The house, ( now a 16 room hotel) is set in beautiful wooded grounds near Coly in the heart of the Perigord Noir, has been in the Hamelin family for about 300 years, and is now run by Patrick Hamelin and his wife Marie Josee. It was built as a forge in the 13thC, later became a mill (using the stream that runs beside it), was then embellished and turned into a family residence and was finally converted into a hotel - but with the feeling of a private house skilfully retained. Public rooms and the spacious, comfortable bedrooms are imaginatively decorated with family antiques and paintings. Dinner in the pretty vaulted dining room is a five-course affair - first-class cooking - which inevitably includes home-produced foie gras, another of the Hamelins' commercial successes. The present chef, Frederic Pilon, is a particular find. Wines are reasonably priced. In the pleasant grassy grounds there is a smart pool that gets plenty of sun. There is also a pond, and fishing is available on the local river. The Hamelins are natural hosts and a warm welcome awaits guests to their family home.

La Roque-Gageac - an Dordogne wonder!

La Roque-Gageac, a village listed among the 'Most Beautiful Villages of France, is nestled between the cliff side and the Dordogne River. Its southern exposure provides it with a virtually Mediterranean microclimate. The white and ochre façades of its houses align along the bank of the river. A number of winding lanes lead to the foot of the Cliffside, offering a magnificent view over the river. Halfway up the cliff next to the church, the natural solarium formed by the rock sustains a surprisingly exotic garden of palm trees, banana plants, agaves, fig trees, cacti and bamboos. 
 The best way to discover the village from the river is to embark aboard one of its famous cargo barges called Gabare. These traditional flat-bottomed boats were historically used to transport merchandise along the Dordogne.The trip takes 1 hour and passes some of the most magnificent castles in the area. 

A little spot of French Heaven, unknown to most Americans and a definite WOW!

Having just spent a month in France, I visited at length for the second time, the area known as the Perigord Noir. This area not only is home to Europe's earliest man and his famous caves (Lascaux II, being one of them) , but to the breathtaking area nearby known as the Dordogne Valley. I have seen almost every region of France, but this area, almost unknown to most Americans is a visited highlight in France. I can't tell you how many times I brought my car to a screeching halt and stepped outside in order to take in the magnificent vistas. I was over come with the beauty offer in this region unlike I have ever experienced before. This area is not easy to get to ( but maybe that's one of the things that makes this area so special), but you should make the effort if this is your 2nd or 3rd time visit in France. The closest jumping off point is Bordeaux, 2 1/2 hours  west of this region. Email me for more details, but first please enjoy this short film.

This could be in the Cotswold's of England, but it's not..its in Brittany France

The Domaine de la Bretesche is located in Brittany inland just 15 minutes away from the sea.
Besides regular lovely rooms, it also has self catering cottages in the forest beyond the main hotel.
Great restaurants, golf, bike paths, hiking and just to drive into the property is worth the price of admission! It's A "wow" and believe me, having been selling travel for over 45 years and having seen a lot of "WOW", this is special!

France has been the world’s most visited country since the 1980s.

France is on course to welcome a record number of tourists this year, helping boost sector revenue by about 4 percent, minister for foreign affairs and tourism Laurent Fabius said. Revenue from tourism last year represented 7 percent of France’s economic activity and brought in revenue of 150 billion euros. With the attractions of the capital Paris, its Loire Valley chateaux, Alpine ski resorts, Riviera beaches and gastronomic pleasures, France has been the world’s most visited country since the 1980s.

The Chateau de Versailles, one of France’s most visited tourist sites, is to house a new luxury hotel where visitors will have the opportunity to sleep like royals.

With peeling paint, faded walls and spider webs now common sights at the Chateau de Versailles, the hotel venture would attract private funds to spruce up several buildings in dire need of an upgrade.
Because Versailles is run by the French Govt and funds come out of the Ministry for culture, The property is at odds all the time with trying to have funding to have an on going upkeep, unlike the Vaux-le-Vicomte ( which is what Versailles was fashioned on) with it'a private funds and has always a fantastic upkeep.
So the French Govt is asking corporations or wealthy individuals to bid on an unused building at the  Versailles to make into a small, but luxurious hotel plus contributing to other buildings upkeep at the site. We shall see what happens in the coming months.

Day Trip from Paris to visit Champagne country - just 45 minutes away by TGV Train....

I love to visit ( on a day trip from Paris) the Champagne Country and Reims its capitol. 
The Paris train leaves you off at the city center and you can walk to many of the Champagne houses.
Of course,one must have lunch at Les Crayeres hotel dining room, at Le Parc or its new less formal, Brasserie. 
But one must also make a stop at Maison Fossier Pastry shop and buy a tin or two of their famous Pink Biscuit, just the right size to dunk in a glass of Champagne. 

The Castle at Versailles can be over-whelming and so a suggestion for a lovely, calm lunch nearby...

A new lovely bistro with lovely prices to match has opened near the Castle of Versailles and I suggest you make it a lunch stop either after or before your visit.

                                      A great prix-fixe lunch at 27 to 35 Euros

Paris in August is a restaurant/cafe ghost town for locals and visitors.........and as the English Female Pop group once sang......

“It’s a cruel, cruel summer,

 leaving us here on our own, 

it’s a cruel, cruel summer

 now they’re gone…” 

 Paris is largely a ghost town in August, as most Parisians are away for the month on holiday on the beaches of Normandy, or down south in the Côte d’Azur. This means that it can be challenging to find quality restaurants, boulangerie, or other stores open as many are closed, for the entire month. This is especially the case with top tier restaurants, as staff take much needed rest from their demanding work. However, a few good restaurants are open, so all is not lost if you are in Paris during this extended vacances. If you want a list, please email me at Howard.lewis@protravelinc.com

One of my most favorite hotels in all of France - Les Sources de Caudalie -It's Heaven any way you look at it

An award-winning hotel and spa situated in the peaceful surroundings of the Château Smith Haut Lafitte vineyards. 

This country estate is made up of wonderful guest rooms and suites distributed between five quaint cottages, all of which are quintessentially French in décor with plush furnishings, antique collectibles and crisp fresh linen. Many of the rooms open out on to terraces which over look the beauties of either the Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte's vineyards or lake. 

 The spa and hotel are surrounded by vast areas of vineyard, while the beautiful city of Bordeaux is only fifteen minutes away.

 There are two restaurants ( both fabulous!!) , one of which restaurants, La Grand 'Vigne - - is one of the finest in the region. Their other is La Table du Lavoir and is set in a former orangery and is perfect for dining al fresco on their terrace. The mouth watering menu in either will no doubt not disappoint, with fresh seafood delicacies and infamous French deserts. Lastly their wine bar Rouge is great for hearty traditional French cuisine in the style of tapas to be accompanied by the wide 

Bordeaux wine selection and great conversations with the wine hosts. Les Sources de Caudalie boasts a 15,000 bottle wine cellar, and wine tastings with the sommelier offer an excellent introduction to some of the region's best vintages. When you talk about farm to table these days, here it’s really true as you drink a glass of wine, all you need to look 10 feet outside the dining room window and see the vine it was grown on.

 Grapes have proven antioxidant and protective properties, and the Vinotherapy spa combines the use of Caudalie beauty care products with unique therapies such as a Merlot wrap, a Sauvignon massage or a crushed Cabernet scrub. Treatments are on hand to combat ageing, provide total relaxation or even promote weight loss. The hotel also has a cigar room (Hurrahs!) , outdoor swimming pool, gym, and tennis court.

The most remarkable Stained Glass windows in all of Paris, and its Not Notre Dame, but right near it. Sainte Chapelle

This breathtaking Gothic chapel, with its stunning stained glass windows, is one of the most exhilarating places in Paris. It was commissioned by Louis IX in the 1240s to house relics from the Holy Land, most notably the Crown of Thorns and part of the True Cross. Imposing and yet marvelously intricate, La Sainte-Chapelle is located on the Ile de la Cité near Notre Dame. It has two tiers: an intimate area at ground level with an awe-inspiring view, and a raised space with radiant tall windows and a small balcony. One of the great achievements of Gothic architecture, the Sainte-Chapelle boasts one of the most extensive displays of stained glass to be found anywhere. Bask in the light of bygone days and feel the warmth and wonder emanating from some of the most beautiful windows in the world.
Go early in the morning, during the Paris tourist season to get your tickets or you'l find long lines.
To recover the crowds after your visit, step across the square to the Les Deux Palais for a cafe.
Another way to avoid this, is to attend one of many chamber concerts held here in the evening. 

Experience the waterways of Paris in a self-drive electric boat

Many visitors to Paris think that the Seine is the only body of water in town. In fact, Paris boasts several canals that can be navigated by boat - a charming way to see the city from a whole new perspective.

A company called Marin d'Eau Douce now offers visitors and locals rentals of small electric boats that they can self drive along the canals. There are several itineraries to choose from. No licence is required. Rates begin at Euro 40 an hour and there are 2 to 8 persons boats to chose from.

The boat rental company can also provide a lovely picnic lunch, if you wish. 

To quote a Marvin Hamlish Song "Nobody Does It Better" than the French Pastry chefs............

Helmet New Cake Shop in the 9e

near the Madeleine

Ham and Sausage heaven found in Paris's Haute (upper) Marais District

Recently I spent time in the Marais, but not the lower part that most tourists visit, but in what is called the Haute Marais; the ever-growing hipper part of the Marais.
I stumbled upon a postage stamp size shop next to the famous Marche des Enfants Rouges Market that only sells the best,  ham and Charcuterie from all over Europe.  It's called Caractere de Cochon.  I walked inside, took one look and one deep breathe and was hooked for like. 
The owner, Solo, presides over this amazing shop and acting as a professor of the history and technique ham and sausage making and loves to teach clients, and it was here that I spent well over an hour enraptured by his conversation and my tasting of some of the best ham I have ever eaten.  The hours are are hit and miss, so you'll need to have patience in trying to find an opening times ( as they vary all the time) , but OH! what wonders you'll see and taste.
Carsactere de Cochon
42, rue Charlot (3e)
Paris

 You must try his 'snowball' sausages, cooked with truffles and rolled in Parmesan

Paris - If you want to try French Regional Candies then head over to the Left Bank and a store not to be missed!

 

Le Bonbon au Palais

19 rue Monge 75005

Open Tuesday - Saturday, 11am - 7:30pm

Its Spring in Paris and that means one thing - Radishes and how to eat them French Style

There are many ways to eat a radish but in France,  the most typical ways to eat a radish is the with slices of fresh baguette, salted butter, thin slices of radishes and salt. It is surprisingly good and so very fresh, a simple way to eat a simple root. You must try it if you haven’t already enjoyed it.

Visiting Impressionist Paintings in Paris without Crowds..............

Paris remains the best city in the world to enjoy Impressionist art and certainly, the Musee d'Orsay which holds the single greatest collection of those paintings anywhere and while this museum's strength is that, its weakness is the sheer number of tourists which floods the museum and at times makes it difficult to relax and enjoy the works on display. 
That said, let me give you a tip on another spot that has a superb collection of Impressionist paintings that most tourists overlook.

MUSEE MARMOTTAN MONET:
This extraordinary museum on the edge of the Bois du Boulognehouses perhaps the most important collection of painting by Money anywhere.

Hidden France - The French Atlantic Radiant Isles - One of my secret places to hide away and spend time in!

Among those in the know, the Ile d’Oléron and Ile de Ré are the most famous and fashionable islands along the French Atlantic Coast, nestled secretly between Brittany to the north and the vineyards of Bordeaux to the south. This is a land of flat seaside biking, sail boats and enough oysters to make for one shucking good time.
One way to see it is by a easy going bike ride - its for all types of riders - slugs ( like me) up to hard core people.

Doctors discover new malady connected with travel..............be aware, please.

"Stendhal syndrome' ; doctors say' is a psychosomatic disorder that causes rapid heartbeat, dizziness, fainting, confusion and even hallucinations when an individual is exposed to the beauty of travel, usually when the travel is particularly, travel to France, they pointed out. There is no known cure to this illness except to accept it and do more.

Jambon-Beurre - A French national Treasure - a Sandwich, but not just a simple sandwich

It may seem like a simple ham sandwich, but the Parisian 'Jambon-Beurre' is one of the French capital’s culinary staples. The secret to its success lies in the combination of the best baguettes with top quality home-made ham and the best semi-salted butter.  'Jambon-Beurre' is one of France’s most popular snacks.

The best in Paris ( attested to by many Parisians) is at Le Petit Vendome brasserie, 8 rue des Capucines. Its a 'crush' to get in and be waited on ( you must have patience here) and for the sandwich its only for take out or eat at the bar( the best kind of fun).