LOUIS VUITTON - A MAGICAL NAME

This is a first in a museum in Paris; the world famous brand exhibits trunks and luggage that made its world reputation.
"Journey in capital, Louis Vuitton and Paris" gathers treasures from its heritage, the exhibition tells the story of the brand as well as Vuitton's family.

From the Empress Eugénie in 1854 to Catherine Deneuve or Madonna today, the brand with the famous monogram has become dominant throughout the world, always attracting a fashionable and demanding VIP clientele.

Around a hundred trunks and bags gathered together for the first time illustrate this fantastic epic.

Rally to the heart of the changing trends of a very Parisian luxury under that very famous monogram!
Louis Vuitton was created over 150 years ago, the brand travels through time and space, here, visitors could discover its unique know-how that made thrench showcase abroad.

This exhibition is also the opportunity for Louis Vuitton to release its new book entitled "Louis Vuitton, 100 legendary trunks".
Hôtel Carnavalet  n23, rue de Sévigné  75003 Paris
Métro : Saint-Paul (ligne 1) or Chemin vert (ligne 8)Open every day from 10h00 am to 6h00 pm , except on Monday or National Holidays.Entrance fees: 4,50 €

The Secret Cote d'Azur

If you hanker for the easy, sun-kissed charm of St Tropez 50 years ago, then just look a few miles west along the coast to Cassis. To my mind, the French Rivera is swamped by tourists, traffic jams, its ocean front is lined with high-rise ugly concrete condominiums and its beaches are mobbed with sun loungers packed cheek to jowl.

To be honest, it is not my favorite area. But....west past St Tropez and east of Marseilles is an area of almost secret, under-appreciated places. You won't find 5 star hotels here, hardly even a 4 star hotel, but the scenery and charm make up for the lack of grand hotels. I will at length later, talk about what there is to do and see, but for the moment, One of the drives in this part of the France is the 16 kilometer Route des Cretes ( road of Crests) where you can drive a car, a motorbike or walk eastward from Cassis to La Ciotat. The journey starts from the base of Cap Cannaille; the highest sea-coast cliff in Europe, and when you reach the top you can see Cassis, The Mediterranean and Les Calanques (inlets ranging from shallow indentations to jagged, deep water canyons).

( seasonal boat rides to view the French Fjords are possible)

The road along here is narrow and winding, but is not for anyone who suffers from vertigo; but the route is very high and exciting  and every turn brings a new unbelievable view., BUT if the wind gets too strong, the road is closed.

The Champagne Bus - Only in France!

                           Paris sparkles at night! On the Champagne Bus
Every Monday evening, O'Chateau ( the Paris wine tasting institute and classes) now invites you to take an extraodinary journey - on the Champagne Party Bus. Simply hop on near the Louvre at 9:30pm for a two hour ride across Paris from the Champs-Elysees to the Bastille via Saint Germain, taking in the capital's liveliest neighborhoods and tourist attractions, including the Eiffel  Tower. Stops are included so you can enjoy a breath of fresh air, which might well be needed, since you are treated to a selection of five different Champagne's ( yes! that's right , you get 5 glasses!!!)  in an energetic musical atmosphere. The tour costs Euro 60 per person.
http://www.o-chateau.com/

The French Riviera – Look Westward - 50's Chic Without The Lipgloss

To many, including myself, the Cote de Azur ( French Riviera) has become a ‘theme’ park; what with over built massive ugly high-rise condominiums cheek to jowl that run from Nice to Cannes, horrendous traffic jams, over priced restaurants and shops and certainly for me, not a relaxing place to vacation. I much prefer the area west of Cannes, actually, passed the lovely, but packed as hell, St Tropez in the area from Cavalaire-sur-Mer to Le Lavandou. Trendy its not, in fact, it’s unfashionable, that is one of the things that is endearing to me, but it’s beautiful and relaxing with great beaches.
One of the great drives for me is (coming from Provence) is to tack south of the super highway, across the edge of the magnificent Maures Mountains (mountains of the Moors). Climb along a scenic route to the hillside village of La Garde-Freinet ( have lunch) and then drive down towards Grimaud and into La Croix-Valmer ( skirting St Tropez.). The cornice coast from here westward rises and falls with wooded headlands, creeks and beaches. Stop where your fancy takes you, for me, its the small and unfashionable town of Cavaliere.

The hotel, Le Club de Cavaliere ( a Relais and Chateaux property) is a great spot to spend a few days or a week in fact. We'll get to that in just a minute, BUT..............
Keep driving west, and just after Cavalaire something extraordinary happens....You come around a great curve, rise up on the coast road, past an exposed white mansion on a cliff top and bang!.............you are suddenly in the 1950's. At any second ( it's the romantic in me) an open-top sports car will come around the bend towards you, with Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn, all dark glasses and Hermes scarf.
Sleepy villas sunk in gardens, an old petrol station, a little grocery shop and a wonderful fish restaurant with a wodden terrace overlooking the sea. The roads itrself winds dramatically, vistas explode ahead of you to reveal tantalising glimpses of wooded promontories, golden beaches, pine forest, crags and cliffs and flower tumbling through balustrades and down banks. Here is a secret place...called Le Rayol. This stretch of coast is the most beautiful and atmospheric on the Southern French coastline. This is how the Riviera used to be and is no more. How long this area remains so, I don't know.
so.....Back to Le Club de Vavaliere and Spa, at the end of the road in Lavandou...
One of the main draws is it sits on a sandy beach –a proper beach – so you can tumble out of bed, stroll to the restaurant and you’re right by the sea. It’s bliss! The hotel owners are fantastic hosts and it’d not just me, but the celebrated chef, Raymond Blanc (who vacations here yearly with his family) thinks the restaurant is fantastic in its own right. Chef Blanc says he loves coming out of the sea and heading straight for the buffet area by the beach, which always boasts a huge selection of fresh fish, meat and vegetables, not to mention the best pastries on the French Riviera.
Just a bit westward from here is village of Le Lavandou; and the nearby , villa of the French President Sarkozy is located and if this area is good enough for him, it’s good enough for me. Chef Blanc says, you might drag yourself away from Cavaliere to Tahiti Beach – east of St Tropez – Tahiti restaurant right on the beach – it’s friendly, it’s chic and it offers great, simple, top quality food all served under palm and coconut trees, with the sea just beyond.

Leaving this area, head back to Provence over the Maures by way of Bormes-les-Mimosas and Collobrieres. It’s a stirring drive through ancient hills that scorn trivial summer pursuits.

France Takes A Holiday..............Periode Estivale

(France's President, Sarkozy and his music star wife, Carla Bruni

at their villa in the south of France near Le Lavandou)

The whistle has blown. School's out. The Tour de France, is starting, Paris is emptying tonight and France is taking off for the summer. That at least is the illusion that is lovingly maintained by the media and much of France. The news is leading with reports from the highways and resorts on the annual migration south and westwards. The sound of cicadas and clinking wine glasses replace political sound-bites as radio cultivates the idea that France is on holiday.
It is not, of course. One third of the French take no leave at all and throughout the période estivale a majority of the people are at home and working. But it's pleasant to observe the tradition that life pauses in July and August. Business is put off until la rentrée -- the first week of September. Government offices work in slow motion and ministers manage to disappear for long breaks after July 14, the national holiday.

A Different View of Mont-St-Michel - An Untourist View

Most visitors to Mont-St-Michel see it and approach it from the south, The best way to take it all in, in a spectacular view, is to view it from the East, at the Grouin du Sud. Here the views from across the flat sands and channels, is one of the most extraordinary features of this unknown peninsula.

In contrast to the frantic, 4 millions tourists who visit Mont-St-Michel a year; the Grouin du Sud is a place to absorb the rare calm of this place and the real beauty of basse-Normandie.

Dreamin' Of Brittany Butter.............

( Handmade Brittany butter by Jean-Yves Bordier)

The Brittany coastline is a virtual lunar landscape of jutting rock formations, with pristine beaches tucked in between. Consequently, Upper Brittany is somewhat remote and not a popular tourist destination and it has become one of my favorite areas in France to visit. . Most of my days begin at a almost-deserted beach with a dip in a frigid, but clear water, and finished at a lively crêperie, picking through a mound of moules frites, aromatic mussels simmered with white wine and local shallots, served with a overly-generous pile of frites . Unlike the rest of France, the Bretons don't eat much cheese...in fact, there's no cheese that I can think of is produced there , but they make up for it by consuming lots of butter, which they're justifiably famous for. When you compliment a local pastry shop or restaurant on their cuisine, they will invariably respond proudly, "C'est la buerre de Bretagne!" ..in fact, the butter; it's the best I've ever tasted. I even dream about it!
Breton butter is notable since it's almost always flecked with large, coarse grains of salt that crunch when you bite into them. THE BEST!

And unlike the rest of the country, Bretons often butter their bread, which is never done elsewhere in France except with oysters, which are customarily served with buttered rye bread, pain de seigle. (So next time you're in Paris and that waiter gives you a funny sneer when you ask for butter, tell him you're from Brittany.)

A Guilty Pleasure Found In Paris

One of my food guilty pleasures since I was a boy, is the hot dog. Not the skinless, tastless things you see in the super market or at ball games,but the real kind made with a lamb casing. In fact, I have mine especially made and shipped in to me from a local meat market in Nebraska. Hot dogs, good hot dogs are one of life's treasures.

Adrian Moore ( a Paris food maven)  recently found a hot dog stand in Paris and this is his take on it. When I return to Paris in October, I will certainly check it out.
"A recent article in L'Express on "Paris' Best Sandwiches" brought me to this cubby hole snack stand in the Marais, offering apparently, New York style hot dogs. The 3€ sandwiches are offered in three different styles: the "American", ie ketchup, mustard and caramelized onions, the "Tex Mex", otherwise known as a chillidog, and the "Alsatian" (no Asian restaurant jokes here, please..) , or a sauerkraut dog. They were doing a roaring trade , and there was always a little crowd of Rayban wearing hipsters quaffing away, wiping ketchups off their chins, bobo families, and gawking passersby.
Verdict: decent, fun for the price, but as always, the unexceptional elsewhere often seems more exotic here. Especially where "American" food comes to play."

DERRIERE - The “home away from home” restaurant

If you are looking for something special and yet crazy,you must go to Derriere.
The idea for this family apartment-style venue was to be able to entertain friends “at home” every night. The name comes from its location, right at the back of the 404 and Andy Wahloo.
Customers can choose where they want to sit, whether it’s in the lounge, dining room, bedroom or boudoir. The décor and furniture are an eclectic mix of styles. The food is French, simple and wholesome, made with the finest quality products.
www.derriere-resto.com

Shopping For A Cause In Paris

A new concept store has opened in the Marais district,it's called MERCI, .It's a three-floor extravaganza with designer and vintage clothing, home furnishings, a used-book cafe and floral shop. Even better, some of the proceeds go to childrens charities. Since mostly all of the boutiques in the Marais district are open on Sundays, where as the rest of Paris is closed, this is a great spot for Sundays in Paris.

SAVEUR Magazine Taps Howard For It's Travel Advisory Board

SAVEUR has formed an alliance with Virtuoso, an invitation-only network of the world’s finest travel specialists, to bring you dream travel packages and authentic culinary experiences in locations all over the world. We are pleased to announce that Howard E. Lewis has been elected to service in 2010/2011.
Since culinary travel is one of the fastest growing travel trends today, we hand-selected the top 50+ culinary travel specialists from the Virtuoso network to make up the SAVEUR Travel Advisory Board to build culinary travel offers, exclusively for SAVEUR readers.
The board brings destinations to life through the language of food and wine—geared towards travelers, not tourists.

Keys To The Kingdom in the Loire Valley

Chocolatine, my agent in France just emailed me about a new pass in the Loire Valley that allows you at a discount to visit ten of the most famous Chateaux.
Visitors to the Loire Valley can now purchase a Chateaux Pass (Clefs des Temps) and enjoy entrance to ten beautiful castles, ranging from the medieval Castle of Châteaudun to the opulent Renaissance masterpiece, Chambord. The pass, which includes admission to both the interiors and stunning gardens, costs $42.75, a savings of nearly 50 percent over individual admission prices.
The castles included in the pass:
Azay le Rideaux • Chambord & Chaumont • Chateau de Chambord • Castle of Châteaudun • Chateau of Azay-le-Rideau • Chateau de Chaumont sur Loire • Chateau d'Angers • Chateau de Talcy • Chateau de Fougeres sur Bievres • Abbaye Royale de Fontevraud • Chateau d’Oiron
To purchase Le Clefs des Temps online: http://www.discoverfrance.net/Boutique/Travel/Passes/

Sunday Thoughts on My First Trip To Paris on a Sunday, a Long Time Ago

Its Sunday and I am making my plans for another visit to Paris and France in November and my thoughts turn back to the fist visit to Paris, a visit that changed my life forever.
Hundreds of people I am sure have had the same experience and here is what I remember on that Fall Paris day ( written for the movie, "Paris je T'Aime" and perfectly captures my feelings on my first arrival day)  - sitting on a bench overlooking the Seine.
'Sitting there, alone in a foreign country, far from my job and everyone I know, a feeling came over me. It was like remembering something I'd never known before or had always been waiting for, but I didn't know what. Maybe it was something I'd forgotten or something I've been missing all my life. All I can say is that I felt, at the same time, joy and sadness. But not too much sadness, because I felt alive. Yes, alive. That was the moment I fell in love with Paris. And I felt Paris fall in love with me. '
What do you, my readers, remember from your first trip to Paris and France?
~ H. E. Lewis

Finding The Sweet Life in Southwestern France

Southwest France according to many surveys in France is the number one place in the country ( maybe the world!) to live if you are seeking the best lifestyle.

The Southwest is as diverse as its size, 15,400 square miles of it and the countryside changes dramatically from the majestic snow-capped Pyrenees to the verdant valleys of the Basque country, the soft rolling hills of the Gers, the luxuriant vineyards of the Dordogne and the strange rocky majesty of the Causses.

The Medieval village of Puy-L'Eveque is a favorite and for the moment, I'll leave it there, I am not sure I want to tell you exactly where it is Let it be my secret for a while. I will need to think about this.

It's villages like this that made me fall in love with France!

Monday food thought....................

"The only irritating thing about eating in France , is that when you are done, you are no longer hungry" - H.E. Lewis

The South Of France - This Side of Paradise...... Found!

This March, in my whirlwind trip, 3 week trip across France, I had the good fortune to be in the South of France and to stay at La Reserve Ramatuelle near Saint-Tropez., Its in a gated community east of St Tropez ( actually the famous beaches of St Tropez are really in Ramatuelle,) it's a true retreat nestled among hundreds of pines and a view of the sea that is to die for. The plus for me here, was the fact that even though it was close to the action of celeb central Saint-Tropez ( in the summer – its season is from June to August and- it attracts hundreds of thousands of people a day) and the pretty medieval village of Ramatuelle, (up the hill) yet it felt a world apart from the tourist crowds with only 23 rooms perched over the Mediterranean. The resort was masterminded by French designer Jean-Michel Wilmotte who focused on creating airy, light-filled spaces that were still very luxurious, the perfect aesthetic for a place where the focus should be on the view. The rooms (all with a fantastic view) are large, and when I mean large; its large!, my room ( #50) could have held a USC football team and yet still had plenty of room left over. The walk in shower was huge on top of that!

The hotel also has a spa, Some European "beauty centers," while they look good are a little lightweight on treatments, but the spa at La Reserve Ramatuelle was a standout. It was obvious that my technician (Isabelle) was just as concerned with my alignment as making sure I was relaxed as I was. And I loved the spa's internal pool, the counterpoint to the huge outdoor swimming pool that also seems to hang above the sea. It was hard to leave my room, but I did manage to make a couple of stops into Ramatuelle for the market and also to Saint-Tropez to admire the über-yachts (if the economy is bad, these seafarers didn’t seem to have gotten the memo). Even in March it was a mad house. So if you are heading to the South of France you'll want to make La Reserve a part of the itinerary.
The staff is phenomenal, from Nicolas VINCENT (the GM),to Lionel, the Matre D to Isabelle, my masseuse. The food is spa cuisine, but not the insipid spa cuisine you find in the United States, after all this is France! Everything is weighted, but its so good and so French, you can hardly call it Spa Cuisine ( but it is). The joke is they hide the croissants in the morning, but if you want some, they will gladly give them to you.
The resort is not for everyone; it’s quite, restful and relaxing and its not cheap, but what is anymore that is luxurious. You’ll need a car to get to the beaches (about 8 minutes away).

Paris - A Paradise for 13 - 19's - Parents Pay Attention!

Paris – secondhand and retro clothes shops - Rue du Roi de Sicile,

This intersecting triangle of streets in the heart of the Marais – the city’s original Jewish neighborhood – reveals all you’ll need to know about what is one of the hippest quarters in Paris. On rue des Rosiers you’ll find a multitude of Jewish epiceries, bakeries, falafel outposts and, among them, the avant-garde boutique L’Eclaireur (01 48 87 10 22), where adventurous and knowledgeable fashion types go for the great collection of brands, including Yohji and Maharishi. Next take a stroll along Roi du Sicile for edgy street duds or head to rue des Franc Bourgeois to discover a mix of well-known and boutique-name brands. Recognized as the heart of the city’s gay district, men’s fashion features highly. Once night descends grab a drink at The Lizard Lounge, just off rue du Roi de Sicile. The quarter’s maze of winding, cobbled streets is in stark contrast to the ultra-mod outfits of the area’s stalwarts. It’s a great, vibrant scene and one of the only areas of Paris open on Sundays.
Vintage Bar.
They will buy your coolest items too, and have a fantastically cool collection of vintage jewelery. There is a downstairs full of items too, don't miss that.
16 rue de la Verrerie
Frip'irium.
The owner of this place is a lively fun guy who went into a long description with me about why his shop was the best on the street. They apparently clean all items before selling them, only sell the nicest vintage items and apparel, and indeed had gone to great lengths to make a clean, organized, nice shop, with oils burning so that even your nose was happy to enter.
2 rue de la Verrerie
Mamz'Elle Swing.
The women working in this place is all decked out in 30s swing attire. It puts you in the mood as soon as you walk in, as does the swing music being played. A nice collection of 30s and 40s vintage items and clothing. Very cool.
35bis rue du roi de Sicile.
The King of Frip.
This place is a bit more disorganized than the other establishments mentioned, and seems to care a bit less about being choosy in what they sell. That said, there are some pretty good finds here, for great prices, if you dig. Don't miss the downstairs too.
33 rue du roi de Sicile.

Vintage Desir.
A cool place to get selected, collected, vintage shoes, clothes and accessories.
32 Rue des Rosiers
Chapellerie Simon.

This is one of my absolute favorite hat shops in all of Paris. They are filled to the roof with hats from all decades. Whether you want that sweet little 30s hat, or a stylish one for your man, or a summer wide-brimmed straw hat...this place has it all.

11 rue Ste Croix de la Bretonnerie

Noir Kennedy:
is a blacked-out dream destination in Le Marais for vintage hunters and rockabillies alike. Aged Converse shoes, choice selections of reconditioned baseball and Levi’s jackets and collections from new brands such as Cheap Monday line the walls and racks of this store. Far from being one of those junk-filled thrift stores overflowing with stretched XXL t-shirts and Mickey Mouse sweaters, the emphasis here is on wearable, quality vintage and the selection simply smacks of cool.The prices are cheap (for a Parisian clothes shop) and the oodles of favorable gems have been tastefully hoarded from vintage outlets far and wide with stock updated and added to regularly. Expect to bump into some of the skinny minnies of Paris’ indie scene as you hop in and out of the lovely old English telephone booths that function as the changing rooms whilst you fashion your new Pete Doherty look against the moody twang of the old school soundtrack.

12 and 22 rue Roi de Sicile 4th arr

Viewing The Famous Bayeux Tapestry - A Secret Way To Avoid The Crowds

Listed as a “Memory of the World” by UNESCO, the Bayeux Tapestry is an embroidery, 70 meters long, made in the 11th century. Celebrating the conquest of England by William, Duke of Normandy, this linen canvas was probably embroidered by monks in the south of England after the Battle of Hastings on October 14th, 1066.Legendary animals, ships, Vikings, Norman and Saxon cavalries illustrate the exploits of William and his opponent Harold, another pretender to the throne of England. The tapestry is a highlight of the Normandy area along with the nearby  D Day beaches. Because it is visited by 460,000  people every year, here is a secret to having it all to yourselves ( well almost).
The museum closes at 5:00pm for entry, but is open for another 1-1/2 hours, SO, arrive at 4:45pm, buy your ticket and then after 5pm,the doors are shut and you'll have a quiet 1-1/2 hours to explore this wondrous Tapestry plus see an informative movie on the history of the Tapestry.

The town of bayeux is a treat to visit and walk around also. So allow yourself time to do that also.

A Day Trip To Strasbourg From Paris - A City Of Flowers and Sauerkraut

I have often told clients visiting Paris on a short stay, to use Paris as a base and do day trips into the French countryside. Provence is only 2 1/2 hours away, Dijon is 1 hour and 30min, and The Loire Valley is an easy hour away. On my last visit to Paris this past March, I did three day trips from Paris , One to Nancy (The Art Nouveau capital), one to Lille ( close to the Belgium Border) and one to Strasbourg (Eastern France). My favorite overall of these trip was my visit to Strasbourg. Just 2 1/2 hours away from Paris, the city of Strasbourg dominates the fertile vineyards and walled towns of the Rhine river plains and the dark, impenetrable Voges pine forests. Wonderful barge trips in the area. The city, French, yet German in feel (the population is bilingual (French and German) is shaped by the gently meandering Ill river which carves islands out the of cities most historic neighborhoods. The most atmospheric area (just an 8 minute walk from the rail station) is the area called: Petite France". Here half-timbered houses are nearly toppled by the weigh of their flower boxes and it looks as much as it did in the 16th and 17th centuries. Here Swans and bateaux-mouches paddle through the tranquil canals and past covered bridges. Strasbourg is a modern capital that has kept a small town feeling.Strasbourg

Cathedral de Notre-Dame is known as one of the most beautiful gothic cathedrals in Europe. The Cathedral stands on the exact site of a roman temple built on a little hill above the muddy ground and is today, the 6th tallest Cathedral in the world! As a world class city,

Strasbourg also boasts its share of world-class restaurants where chilled white Riesling is served in delicate green-stemmed Rhine wine glasses. The 3 Michelin stared restaurant Le Crocodile is the star here, but so are many informal bistros and winstubs located in the central area. Here the luxurious (which I came to really sample) Choucroute Strasbourgeois - is served at the historic Kammerzell Restaurant (within the shadows of the Cathedral). Unlike the traditional Choucroute served with 'tons" of Pork sausages, this one is served with three different types of fish. It was incredible! The restaurant occupies several floors and has been around since (at least the building) since the 15th century. Reservations are a must! All in all, what a great city to visit for a day! It’s an easy trip from Paris and one that hardily recommend.

D Day Beaches In Normandy - An Emotional Journey

A few weeks ago, I visited one of my favorite regions of France - Normandy. I looked forward to my stay at the lovely Norman Manor house - La Cheneviere, located deep in the lush and verdant Norman countryside. I also looked forward to eating the last of the season - red scallops that are a highlight of the Norman winter season. Although I have been to Normandy countless times, I had never really toured the famous D Day beaches and battlegrounds at any length, so I thought that this time I would make a day of it. I used the services of Normandy Sightseeing Tours and had the pleasure to be guided by an enthusiastic and knowledgeable young lady by the name of Aurelie.
My first stop was Pont du Hoc (its  behind me in the photo), Here American Army Rangers scaled its sheer 100 ft cliffs under deadly fire to knock out huge coastal guns they didn't know had been moved. Pocked by huge craters left by naval bombardment, most of the German bunkers remain to this day. The cliff-side battlefield also offers a scenic view of the French coastline that saw some of the war's fiercest fighting.

What I thought at the start of the morning was going to be an interesting trip through World War 2 history, but it turned out to be more than that. It turned out to be an emotional day that I challenge anyone to visit and not come away changed, even if you never served in the Armed forces.

My father, a paratrooper with the 101st, was a participant in the D Day landing ( but never wanted to talk about it), so my knowledge was zero as to what really transpired that early morning of June the 6th, 1944..

After Pont du Hoc, we drove another 10 minutes to Omaha Beach.

Here I found myself under a misty, but sunny sky, amid crashing waves, lush vegetation and pleasant breezes, it created an eerie scene of seaside tranquility at the spot that one D-Day veteran recalled as mostly "darkness and confusion."Standing on this broad 4 mile stretch of silent beach, it was hard to imagine the carnage that occurred some 65 plus years ago. It was a surreal feeling to stand here and know how many American's and Germans were killed in those first early morning hours, over 3,000 on the Allies side alone. It was very humbling and in a way, very upsetting. Next we stopped at the impressive American cemetery at Colleville Saint Laurent and walked in awe among the Christian crosses and Jewish Stars of David markers. Seeing so many young men's graves, most dated during the summer of 1944, was moving for anyone who has been here.. The cemetery overlooks part of Omaha Beach, and is high upon the cliff with a beautiful view of the English Channel. The cemetery is maintained by the U.S. Government. Your tax dollars are certainly at work here, because the grounds were immaculate. A monument on the grounds of the cemetery contains a statue honoring the dead and diagrams and maps of the invasion. There is also a beautiful garden and the Tablets of the missing--a list of all of the soldiers missing in action similar to the Vietnam Memorial in Washington, DC. Our guide walked with me to point out the two graves of the Niland Borthers , a family whose story is memorialized in the movie "The Saving of Private Ryan". President Theodore Roosevelt's son is also buried at Colleville Saint Laurent, although he did not die during the Normany Invasion, but a few weeks later.
More to follow -please check back in a few days......

The French Brasserie - A Love Affair

                   
Gallopin - founded in 1876 - located just behind the Paris Stock Exchange
Just one of my favorties - sit either in the main room or the brokers Lounge.

The French Brasserie:Where the pleasure of the eye is reunited with the pleasures of the table

.A gigantic platter of fruits de mer just outside the entrance door, Art Nouveau décor everywhere, the grand entrance of a diva and as Lyricist Ira Gershwin once wrote “Who Could Ask For Anything More”

Eating out in Paris can be the experience of a lifetime or the ultimate let down. Without an insider's tip for the best bistro or the latest hot restaurant, you could end up leaving the City of Light with a bad taste in your mouth. Fortunately there is the brasserie - one of the great culinary and social institutions of the French capital that has remained unchanged for well over 100 years. A meal in one of these cultural monuments - for they are more than mere restaurants - is always a memorable experience, because not only do you eat well at a reasonable price, but you'll experience at first hand an authentic slice of Parisian life.

These sumptuous dining rooms began life as simple beer taverns - 'brasserie' actually means 'brewery' in French - at the end of the nineteenth century when residents of Alsace fled to Paris as refugees after their region had been annexed by Germany. The good news is that the brasseries are here to stay as most have been classified monuments historiques by the French Government.
The great brasseries boast beautifully preserved Art Nouveau decor. Each one with its own personality and specialities. The dishes on the menu haven't changed much in the past 100 years either: a mountain of crushed ice covered with freshly shucked oysters and shellfish, a steaming tureen of choucroute , sauerkraut garnished with a dozen different sausages, an irresistible tarte tatin , and a chunk of the wonderfully pungent cheese from the village of Munster served with a hot potato and cumin seeds.
I spent the last couple of weeks eating (NO… over eating to be truthful) in the most famous and historic Brasseries of Paris. There are 49 of them in all. I only got to about 15. As one like myself, who feels at times I was born too late and would have preferred to be in Paris during the `1920’ and 30;’s, I can say, that entering one of these historic and 'drop dead' gorgeous Brasseries is returning to that era.
The brasseries of Paris are one of the few places you can still feel, see and smell the real Paris. 

Paris - March Trip Report VIVE La France!

In the following days, I am going to report along with photos on my whirlwind trip around France to check out new and old hotel favorites, restaurant favorites, new areas to visit, new people and old I have meet along the way and interesting things going on in Paris and in France.

Right now, its 3:30pm in Beverly Hills and having just returned last night, I am being hit with jet lag and so I will sign off until Tuesday, when my report begins in earnest.
The photo above was taken at a fantastic new apartment complex (for rental, 3 day minimum) called La Reserve; located in the 16th Arrondissement, just a stones throw from the Eiffel Tower.
The apartments are lovingly looked after by the beautiful and talented young directrice by the name of Stephanie BILLAT. The apartments are very luxurious - 1 to 4 bedrooms and offer great privacy for its VIP and movie clientele , (but it is also available to ‘common folk’ like ourselves. ).
During my visit, a private chef (the apartments all have up to the date kitchens along with the services of a private chef if you wish) prepared a fabulous luncheon for myself and some fellow agents who traveled with me. What a way to start off a trip!
So check back in a day or two and take a trip around France with me.
http://www.lareserve-paris.com/ - La Reserve

An American In Paris - Returns.............And Is Not Happy About It!

It's Sunday, 4th of April and I have just returned from an extended stay in France. My stays are never long enough and it is with a touch (always) of sadness when I have to leave my 'adopted home'. BUT.......life goes on and one must work now and then and so I am home for awhile and have lots to tell and lots of photos to share with you my readers.

Lots of new and wonderful discoveries - restaurants, hotels, new friends and some surprising areas of France, that I fell in love with.

So, dear reader, check back on Monday for the first of my reports.

So..............as we use to say in the movie industry..cue the Paris music and........enjoy!

Give Me Meat, You Philistine, Meat!

I am leaving for France for 3 weeks in a few days and my thoughts turn to some of my favorite places to spend a 3 hour lunch and one is near the spa town of Evian, over looking ( from the French side of course) Lake Geneva.

High on the hill above the lake is La Verniaz et Ses Chalets. A lovely hotel and restaurant run by the 5 generation ,Verdier family.

A treat here is ordering from "Campfire" grill menu - a large wood fire spit in the center of the restaurant that offers grilled meats.

To be honest with you, I have had one to three star Michelin meals all over France, but when it comes to the 'crunch', give me a spit roasted bird or meat dish and you will find no happier person in the world!

Dining here is one of my most cherished memories and something I come back to year after year. The good part is after a 'thrilling' and full filling ,3 hour luncheon, to be able to walk just a few paces to your awaiting room and to sleep and dream of what you just ate, is heaven on earth. Genesis was wrong, we never left the Garden of Eden, it is here in Evian.

The traditional grill room in the campfire of "La Verniaz":

Bavarian beef filet roasted on a spit (minimum of 2 persons) 30 € per person

Rack of lamb roasted on a spit, flavoured with thyme, (minimum of 2 persons) 28 € per person

Bresse poultry chicken «Miéral» roasted whole on a spit (minimum of three persons)(one hour cooking) 26 € per person

J'ai Deux Amours - I Have Two Loves!

The great American/French singer, Josephine Baker, whose signature number "J’ai deux amours, mon pays et Paris" ( I have two loves- my own country and Paris) I certainly do echo.
On Wednesday, the 17th of March I will be leaving for France for about 3 weeks. I can hardly wait! I will spend a week or so in Paris, checking out new and old favorite hotels, restaurants, museums and also taking TGV day trips to Strasbourg, Dijon, Lille and Nancy. Then for a week or so, I am driving to the Loire valley, Normandy, Bordeaux, The Dordogne, Provence and the Cote d'Azur( I don't recommend this for anyone for just a week, but I have limited time and need to see a lot within a short space), doing the same as I was doing in Paris -checking out new and old favorite hotels and restaurants. In Dordogne I am planning to be part of a truffle hunt.
I hope to send back daily reports and photos, but being a tech-no-void with computers and such, that may suffer a bit.

Chocolate-Dipped in Paris - Psst!

Opening this month in Paris, Choco-Story: A Gourmet Chocolate Museum is a delectable, sensual journey through 4,000 years of cacao bean history and everything that’s been done to it and with it since. The exhibits are divided into three parts: the origins of chocolate; its evolution once it was discovered by the Aztecs and Maya and its introduction to Europe by Cortes; and an amazing collection of chocolate “paraphernalia.”
During the visit, whose duration varies between one to two hours, you'll discovered the 4,000 year history of cocoa. Chocolate culinary workshops will be offered for both children and adults. The classes ,dates and prices have not been set yet.
                    (Psst: the chocolate boutique alone is worth the visit!)
28 Boulevard Bonne Nouvelle 
Open daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Up a Tree In Provence – Literally!

Located on the flank of a valley, on the edge of a protected wooded zone, with breathtaking views of the perched village of Saint-Paul de Vence and of an untamed forest - devoid of any human habitation or noise.  Orion B & B propeties offers Tree House accommodations near the French Riviera. There are only 4 tree house cabins to choose from, so book early.
http://www.orionbb.com/

Burgundy Cyclorails - A New Way To Sightsee and Relax

Burgundy has an extensive network of waterways and cycle paths, but for someone like me; a French "couch" potato, here is a new way to tour the area without biking or hiking or walking,

its called Cyclorails.

Discover a new way to see Burgundy - try Cyclorail - a company that has railbikes that use former rail way sights. Trips last for  1 hour to all day. You use disused railway tracks and pedal on a 4 - mini train wheels. There are secveral routes in the Burgundy area.

The cost is quite attractive and its something the entire family can do,especially if you can get your children to pedal and you sit back.

Dining Outside in Paris - A New Choice

(outside garden dining)

In the sixteenth arrondissement of Paris, behind the discreet facade of the Marriott Renaissance Hotel ( don't let that bother you) hides another restaurant by Alain Ducasse -The Le Relais du Parc .
Once past the porch, unflods a magnificent garden courtyard with anglo-nomand charm. A little bit of  countryside in the heart of Paris. Great for lunch or dinner, if weather permits, if not,
the interior dining room offers a lovely alternative.
Menus of the day starting from:

Lunch menu - 33€ (entrée, main dish and desert) - Dinner menu – 43€ (entrée, main dish and desert)

                                                                      (Inside Dining)

The Best Gypsy Jazz Bar In Paris

With its upbeat swing of guitars, violin and the occasional clarinet or saxophone, jazz manouche is the music of Paris's Gypsy periphery that made it to the big time. This year marks the centenary of the birth of legendary guitarist Django Reinhardt and Paris has been paying homage to the inventor of Gypsy jazz.
~ Bouquet du Nord
Inhabiting the corner of a busy intersection near Gare du Nord, every Friday this brasserie plays home to some of the best and most authentic practitioners of jazz manouche. Violinist Stéphane Grappelli lived opposite and used to come in for a drink; the older men who play here, some of them tziganes (Gypsies), knew and played with him. Well-lit with friendly staff busily working the large counter, the musicians work their magic next to the cake cabinet. There is a large terrace where you can sit watching the traffic in true Parisian style. Come early to listen while you dine, or later to get these ageing jazz maestros all to yourself.
• 85, rue de Maubeuge, 70010; +33 (0) 1 48 78 29 97. Concerts every Friday from 7pm – midnight. Jam possible for experienced players. Metro: Gare du Nord.
If you have not heard this kind of music before, here are two of the most famous - Django Reinhard and Stephanie Grappelli ( recorded before World War 2)