A Secret Paris Market...Well,..... Maybe Only to Us Tourists

If you enjoy the Marais and are a history buff or a market troll, you must take the time to discover the oldest market in Paris : le Marché des Enfants Rouges.
Le Marché des Enfants Rouges is reputedly the oldest food market in Paris, built under the rule of Louis XIII around 1615. The name, which literally means the Market of the Red Children, refers to the red uniform worn by the children of the orphanage that was located nearby.
Still marked out by a small iron gate off the rue de Bretagne in the now rather chic upper Marais district, today the market is alive with the rich, vibrant colours and smells of fresh fruits, vegetables and flowers and the sounds of market clatter and chatter. Olive oil, charcuterie, wine, cheese and other such wholesome delights are also available.

The market is an ideal spot for lunch too. Freshly cooked dishes can be bought from the various stalls (Moroccan, French, Italian, sushi, cheeses, meats and so on) and eaten at the communal trestle tables at either end of the market.
There are also a couple of small restaurants, such as L’estaminet which serves simple, homely French food such as Parmentier (shepherd’s pie). A plentiful Brunch is available on Sunday for € 20.00 too.

Interpreting the French face - Who Says The French Don't Have A Sense of Humor?

The French face is what hands are to the Italians. It stretches and twists to express a wide range of expressions and emotions with the same elasticity of a rubber band. From disbelief to discontent, it can convey a message just as clearly as any grouping of words. Here’s a look at a French face , and how to interpret the meaning:

This face is probably the most common face made in Paris. It is formed by pursing the lips and blowing forcefully out, with a slight raise of the eyebrows. It is used in situations of general annoyance (for example, when walking behind someone who moves at a snail's pace).

Mining The Arts - My Favorite Place in Provence Reopens

The Cathedral of Images near Les Baux de Provence has been closed for a year. Now it's reopening on 30 March with a new name, the Quarries of Light, and a stunning new son et lumière show exploring the tormented relationship between Van Gogh and Gauguin
http://www.carrieres-lumieres.com/en/home

A unique way to discover the Mont Saint Michel!

For something different in seeing Mont St Michel, how about a 2-3 hour walk to the Mont Saint Michel from the mainland?. You will have the chance to discover the hugeness of the bay Mont St-Michel and maybe even see some pink flamingos.
The itinerary takes you across two rivers, See and Selune, and famous moving sands. During the summer I recommend shorts, sun block, a sweater and water, and be prepared to hike barefoot. During the winter the departure point may be different, and you will need warm clothes, boots and moisturizer.
Your journey begins at Tombalaine Rock

Email me for details..................

An Instant Italy Just Over The French Border....

The French Riviera - Many people may not be aware of this, but Italy is just round the corner from the French Riviera… Just 30 minutes or so from Nice, are the Italian towns of Ventimiglia and San Remo, so you can easily have an “I’ve set foot in Italy” moment during your visit on the Riviera and add it to your countries’ list even if you’ve never been to places like Rome or Venice.

The first city just over the France/Italy border is Ventimiglia and is pretty much like any other border town, nothing  spectacular, BUT just a few minutes past this unremarkable town is the glorious Royal Hotel in San Remo. It’s been around for 140 years and has recently been purchased and made into a spectacular seaside resort.

The hotel is a perfect blend of tradition and innovation in a unique setting with stunning views of the sea. You must book a fantastic junior suite with out door patio that overlooks the sea! Totally romance is the only word I can find for it.

So if you need to have an "Instant" Italy while in Southern France, you must stay at this ‘wow’ resort.

A Tip When Eating In Paris - Do Like The French Do!

It's the law, in France that cafes,restaurants and bakeries, particularly bakeries when it comes to bread/pain, the government sets the prices/prix and they MUST be posted in the window no less. OK.. Try and find this in the US anywhere. So many places don't post prices.
It's a snob thing in the US of A, don't you think?

If you see the word 'formule' in a lunchtime menu - that's the best thing to order. The best deal for what was bought fresh from the market that day. Everyone around you (if they're French) will be eating it. It makes sense and cents.

Hermes On Sale? OUI!

Those in-the-know know that Hermes has a semi-annual sale, off site, twice a year with exceptional prices. This year, as in the past few years, the sale takes place at the Palais de Congres, and the final day will the end of January.
What's in store? Scarves are by far the best buy- and you'll have to wait in line to see them- at 175 euros instead of 310 euros in stores.  I always buy my men's pocket sqaures there, Ties were 83 euros. Racks of clothing and shoes were all on offer, with prices about 50% off, but this year there was very little jewelry or leather accessories. If you missed this sale, not to worry, just mark your calendars for the end of June

Pop Goes The Garden

one of the cutest souvenirs i've seen in a while- a simple little card that pops up, holding a sachet of grass to water....letting you watch the grass grow with the vista of the Eiffel Tower behind.  it's always greener on the other side, non?  for a limited time only, available at monceau fleurs [19 euros]

Mont Saint Michel - Major Change

Once upon a time, the Mont Saint-Michel was to become an island again. The building of a lightweight bridge replacing the actual causeway is still under way, and the new parking area (located 1.5 mile from the Mont) is scheduled for opening on 28th April 2012. Parking fees, drop-off fees and options to reach the Mont are now available: on foot as in past times, or onboard the new bi-directional shuttle buses or horse-drawn tire-mounted shuttles.
Click below to see a video on what is hapening at the Mont............

Everything is coming up roses at Au Nom de la Rose.

I love Paris flower shops and my favorite store or stores in Paris is the Au Nom de la Rose, a shop that specializes in everything roses.. They make smart arrangements in mini- watering cans and do an adorable one with either a single, double, or triple rose configuration in a tiny tin pail. I always buy one of them to put in my hotel room
Not only do they have a spectacular selection of roses, they also offer a product line of other rose products, including jam, lollipops, chocolates with crystalized roses, perfume, candles, room spray, and rose flavored syrup.

An American Flag Flies Daily In Paris For A French-American Hero

The Cimetière de Picpus has to be one of the most tranquil outdoor spaces in Paris. When strolling through the grounds, you have a sense of being transported in time to a small village far from any booming metropolis. Yet it is located a short walk from the Place de la Nation in the 12e arrondissement. The private cemetery encompasses a 19th-century Chapel, a large expanse of grass, fragrant boxwood, and a minuscule burial grounds (by Paris standards).
It is here that the Marquis de Lafayette is buried, in soil from Virginia that he brought to France after his final visit to the young United States in 1825. It is at Lafayette's grave that the American flag has flown uninterrupted in France, even during years of the Nazi occupation of Paris. It is here that General Pershing's assistant, Stanton, pronounced the famous "Lafayette, nous voilà!" on July 4, 1917, to proclaim the U.S. troops' arrival to support France in the throes of a terrible World War I. It is here that Lafayette's wife Adrienne was buried before him, in a spot chosen for its proximity to the mass grave where her immediate family had been "buried" with hundreds of other nobles beheaded in the French Revolution.
It is a cemetery to visit the next time you have the chance.
So it is fitting that each July 4 the American flag at Picpus Cemetery is renewed amid great solemn and moving ceremony. On that morning,11, dignitaries from the U.S. Embassy, the French Senate, the Mairie de Paris, the Society of the Cincinnati, the Sons of the American Revolution, and Friends of Lafayette and the general public -- both French and American -- gathered to pay tribute to this hero of two worlds.
A U.S. Military Color Guard stands at attention while the French Garde Nationale band played the "Star Spangled Banner." That alone was a touching moment of transatlantic honor and friendship. The Marseillaise follows, of course. In lieu of loud cheering, there is a wave of emotion that reverberates among the spectators. The crowd, already hushed, shares an official minute of silence. Brief speeches followes, with placing of flowers on Lafayette's grave site. The U.S. Ambassador, addresses the assembled group in French. In France and in the U.S., he is a man to remember and revere. During all the political ups and downs of the nearly two and a half centuries of friendship between our two nations, we owe it to ourselves to remember that in the U.S. House of Representatives, there are two larger-than-life portraits flanking the speaker's podium: Washington and Lafayette.
Cimetière de Picpus: 35 rue de Picpus, 75012 Paris. Metro: Nation
Open to the public every day except Mondays and holidays from 2 pm to 6 pm. For information, contact the conservateur at 01.43.44.18.54 There may be a modest entrance fee.

Domaine de Capelongue - Hidden In the Provence Luberon Valley Hillside

In the Luberon, many restaurants, hotels and resorts close the weekend after Armistice Day on November 11 and the valley hibernates — a chilly slumberous sometimes rain-lashed place — until mid-March.

But come Spring, in the pine hills above the village of Bonnieux sits the Domaine de Capelongue. Besides being a hotel, it is also a Michelin 2 star restaurant.

Sunday Market in France - Olives Galore!

(The olive lady at the L'isle sur la sorgue Sunday market in Provence.)

I love all types of French outdoor markets and my favorite booth is always the olive one, that showcases scores and scores of olives.
This one is in the town of l'isle sur la sorgue (also the antique capitol of France)
Green olives with thyme or pickled lemons, black olives with garlic or red hot chili peppers are just a few of the many types of olives you can buy at the market here. Olives are so much part of the Mediterranean culture!, but are found all over France at local markets.

Glass floor for Eiffel Tower - 2013

The Eiffel Tower is about to provide its visitors with a step into dizzying suspension. Soon visitors to the first level will look straight down the Eiffel Tower through a plate of glass instead of looking through the fence. The idea of the architect, Alain Moatti, is to give the impression of floating above Paris.

In its third major renovation since 1889, a portion of the Eiffel Tower’s solid flooring will be transformed into a 1.5m (5 ft) wide platform of glass. An inclined glass barrier is designed to replace the present grilled fencing. The work begins February 2012 and will be available for viewing during the summer 2013.
The present buildings from the 1980s with their mirrored windows will give way to transparent, windowed buildings to give the visitor the sense of openness into the surrounding space. The lateral walls framing the glass façades will be painted in the original brown-red color of the Eiffel Tower.

TV Commerical As Only The French Can Do It!

This Dior commercial, with Charlize Theron, Greta Garbo, Grace Kelly and Marilyn Monroe was directed by Oscar-winning French director Jean-Jacques Annaud and made using CGI or Computer Generated Imagery.

2011 Christmas Windows at Galeries Lafayette

The cities departments stores have window displays not only for children, but for adults.

Ambassade d'Auvergne - Paris Comfort Food At It's Best

I have many favorite comfort food restaurants I love in Paris and one of my all time favorites ( I desperately hope it never changes) is the restaurant that features the cooking from the Auvergne ( central France) area.

Located in the Marais in an ancient house (two floors) it has been running since 1968. Comfortably spaced tables, the service is well rhythmed, the welcome warm and the prices moderate and the food, absolutely delicious, made up of hearty peasant dishes to showcase the quiet pleasures of the French cooking.

This is stick-to-your-ribs food, no fou fou here. Start off by trying a large bowl ( that call it a salad – but no greens here) of brown PUY lentils seasoned with vinegar, a large amount of creamy goosefat, nice chopped thin onions and chunks of very thin Auvergne bacon all mixed together – served warmed and you spoon as much as you wish on your plate. Maybe slices of Bon de coche de la Chataigneraie, one of the world’s finest hams. Rubbed with salt and aged for 6 months in a smokehouse over a chestnut-wood fire.
For your main, I like the Guinea Fowl stuffed with cabbage, but just a stuffed cabbage is also a star here. One of the best dishes here is the sausage and cabbage served with aligot. Aligot is a staple of the Auvergnat region. It’s a blend of whipped potatoes, young Tomme cheese and garlic and it provides a bit of old-fashioned table side theatre, since the waiter brings it to the table in a thick copper pot and whips it a few times, holding his wooden spoon high so that you can see that is has the surprising texture of molten latex and is it good! Not, make that great! Even if you don’t order it, ask them to bring you a sample, they will.

Talk about comfort food, this is the place.
Located at the North Corner of the centre Pompidou.

The Rebirth Of a Great Paris Hotel - Hotel de Crillon

http://www.crillon.com/ - For Romantic adults only
http://www.crillon.com/#video/children  - For Children Only!
Paris has 6 Grand Dame Hotels and among my favorites is the classic Hotel de Crillon. After a muli million Euro facelift, the hotel is more spectacular than never.

This Place de la Concorde landmark, built at the direction of King Louis XV in 1758, hasn’t lost its ornate air. Flat-screen televisions and high-speed Internet access bring modern touches to suites and salons still filled with gilt, mirrors, and Baccarat crystal, in addition to genuine Aubusson carpets and Wedgwood medallions. . The Bar du Crillon is nothing short of elegant, with its mirrored mosaics, red velvet–covered chairs, and dripping chandeliers. Request a song at the piano, then sit back on a settee and sip a Baccarat cocktail (Grand Marnier, lemon, cranberry, Champagne Rosé).
Better yet, have dinner in the Versailles like dining room, one of, if not the most romantic restaurants in Paris.
......and the location is the best in Paris ( ask me why)
Please contact me for special Protravel rates and amenities at this fabulous hotel.

France's Hidden Coast - Billowy Dunes, Briny Oysters and Easy, Unpretentious Charms

I just returned from a week at Cap Ferret, NO that’s not Cap Ferrat on the French Riviera ( a place of pop legends, Ferraris and Prada shops) but a location on France’s southwest coast, and think of salty Cap Cod than with St-Tropez!

Cap Ferret, a peninsula on France's west coast, is an exclusive summer enclave and differs from its south-coast nemesis, Cap Ferrat, by more than just a vowel and an ocean away.. Cap Ferret is a village des pêcheurs. No yachts, Sean Combs or Ivana Trump here. Instead, you'll find fishing boats and oyster farmers driving around town on forklifts. Small wood houses made from local pine are decorated with blue and white shutters. And when it comes to the social scene, there is no velvet rope: just latch onto the children riding their bicycles down the dirt lane to the beach.
At L'Horizon beach, the waves are decent enough to encourage an enthusiastic surf community. On the bay side, at low tide, people trickle across the sand to pick up shells and inspect the traps. Late afternoons are devoted to fresh oysters with white wine. The bay of Arcachon produces 70% of oyster seedlings in France and 10% of its oysters. Along the shoreline are lots of oyster producer shacks ( Quartier Ostreicole) that offer degustation of their products, it’s a must to do this while you are here. $20.00 for a dozen oysters (3 types), 2 glasses on white wine and 6 large shrimp!

Take the launch boat (30 minutes) across the bay to the town of Arcachon and have a wonderful lunch at one of the many wonderful seafood bistro's that line the beach front.
How has this throwback to summers-gone-by remained intact? Probably because, for years, Cap Ferret had been a hideaway for wealthy families from Bordeaux and Paris. Unless you owned a house, there was no chic way in until nine years ago, when one hotel was open and now there are two, the Cote Sable ( it has its own spa) being the best.
Cap Ferret has retained a carefree sense of summer, (no role playing, no high heels, no makeup, just nice people and wonderful food) something that is hard to find and that money just can't buy.
Its very quiet here, just the place to relax, take long beach walks, read and eat at local bistros and cafes, visit friends, summer backyard BBQ’s and that’s it. A mixture of wildness and quaintness.

Provence - Moustiers-Ste-Marie and Faience Workshop

Moustiers-Ste-Marie is a lovely village, in a gorgeous setting. It's there for tourists, though, so don't expect a "natural" Provencal village. But its still wonderful anyway.

The main theme of Moustiers is to sell the, admittedly beautiful, "faïence" ceramics and the village is packed full of Faïenceries shops.
The village sits astride a rushing mountain stream that divides the two halves with a narrow rocky canyon. The view of this mini-gorge, with small waterfalls down inside and medieval houses above, is beautiful. The sound of the river, and the running fountains all over the village, give Moustiers the feeling of an Alpine village. The village has narrow medieval streets and vaulted passages, and becomes more "natural" when you get up above the ceramics shops.
I recommend during your visit ( its best to stay a few nights here) is to take a private 2 hour ceramic workshop where you will create your own faience plate. It’s great fun!

Just Returned From France - Lots To Tell, But First...

Just west of Bordeaux ( 45 minutes by car) sits the lovely Arcachon Bay. Everytime I find myself in this area, I always make a point to have lunch ( along the beach front) at the Diego Plage L'Ecaillier restaurant.

The bay is known for its oyster production and various local seafood offerings, but one must have, as I always do, the Le Plateau Diego. It's not cheap at Euro 37, but how can any shellfish lover pass it by? Not I!.............. more to come about my trip





A "Room" With A View...................

One of the best places to enjoy a view of the Eiffel Tower is at the restaurant, Les Ombres, located inside the Musée de Quai Branly
Les Ombres rooftop location features stunningly beautiful views of the Seine and the Eiffel Tower with access to their legendary terrace being reserved exclusively for patrons of the restaurant. If you dine here it is sure to be an evening that you will never forget. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner serving an excellent selection of dishes and very inventive cuisine.
During lunch, Les Ombres offers two menus, a set menu they offer year-round and a menu de saison, which changes every week. The menu de saison is a prix-fixe menu for 38€ which includes a starter, main course, and dessert.

Hotel Key Cards - A WARNING

Because of the advances in technology, many more hotels, especially in France are going to the Key Card. BUT - because - KEY CARDS ( these days) contain a great deal of personal info including your credit card number. Caution should be taken regarding room key cards. Most important is to not return the card to the front desk and not discard them in the garbage. The smartest idea is to shred the key card.

Gallo-Roman Paris Underground

There are  traces of the earliest civilizations who inhabited Paris long before it became the capitol city of France. You can discover vestiges of the Gallo-Roman city know as Lutetia in the Crypte Archéologique du Parvis Notre-Dame. Follow the steps down from the square in front of the cathedral and you’ll find a fascinating peek into how each successive generation inhabiting the Ile de la Cité built their homes, streets, quays and ramparts on the ruins of the people who came before them. It’s a great alternative to the Catacombes for those who get creeped out by bones...and long lines!

Roller Paris

Every Friday evening (as long as the weather permits), leaving from the Tour Montparnasse at 22h, huge crowds of people gather to spend 3 hours...rollerskating around Paris.
The streets are closed off, the police follow at a safe distance, and there are numerous volunteer helpers for those who get tired, lost, or who just want a chat. All this security is absolutely necessary, because numbers can sometimes rise to 15000 participants, of all backgrounds and ages. The event itself is free, set up initially by a small group of "patineurs" (skaters), which gradually gathered momentum and is now a veritable association. Skates- or blades- can be rented, or old pairs dug out from the backs of cupboards. There is also a Sunday version, run by a different association, called Rollers & Coquillages.
NB: Since I am not into exercise of any kind, don't ask me any more questions about this :)

Your Next Visit to France, You Should Visit Brittany.. Why?

Next time you are in France, visit one of my favorite areas – Brittany and Yes! I think Americans would love Brittany!
Think of all of the Celtic charm of rural western Ireland but with a gentler climate. Think of the quaint otherness of Cape Cod without the strip malls. Think of the magnificent craggy coastlines of the Pacific Northwest, but with smugglers' coves and ancient stone lighthouses. Think of what Newport RI must have been like in its heyday with its mansions and its ocean-going yachts and find it all intact still at Groix, la Trinité and the estuary of the Odet. Think of the best seafood you ever tasted at home but in Brittany, neither shrimp, nor oyster, nor mussel served raw on the half shell has ever, ever been rinsed under chlorinated tap water. Think of the most peaceful tranquil view you ever saw, then sit on the dock at the far end of Île Tudy at sunset and watch the tide go out. Think of the number of times you swore you would never eat fast food again, then discover the humble galette au blé noir (crispy buckwheat pancake) stuffed with ham and egg and a little Gruyère rapé. Think of the most enchanting, picture-book town that seems only to exist in Hollywood or in theme parks, then visit Auray or Vannes or Quimper. If all the houses look like they are made of stone, they are. It's local granite, not stucco or sheetrock. If a bolée de cidre brut (dry Breton cider) looks harmless and deliciously thirst-quenching, beware. Think seriously about a designated driver. And the Breton people in all this? Are they tourist-wise sophisticates servicing the annual stampede of 80 million foreign visitors to the world's number one tourist destination? Not really. To be honest, that stampede is mainly headed south. To the Midi, to the beaches of the Cote d'Azur, to the surfer's paradise of Biarritz, to Spain via the Pyrenees, to Italy via Menton. So come to Brittany and discover a whole new world within France!

It's Wednesday and How Come So Many Children Are Out Of School?

In France, Wednesday afternoons (or all day Wednesday) are often free, and this is when children usually pursue sporting and musical activities. Also at one time, they would attend school on Saturday for a ½ a day, that has been dropped, but teachers are asking for it to be brought back.
Packed lunches do not exist in France - the children eat school lunches or go home to eat, they have from 1 ½ to 2 hours. The school meals are usually of good quality.
The school hours, are the longest in the Western world, typically 9-4.30 at primary school and 9-5 at upper school (age 11-15).

Do I Love Oysters? What a Question! -How To Order Oysters

Let’s imagine you have decided to try oysters –. You open the menu.... and realize that just asking for oysters will not be enough. You have to be more specific. Frenchmen are not difficult about food – yeah sure - but they are very precise.

Let me guide you through the three basic parts of determining what oysters to order. First of all you need to know that oysters are classified by size from 0-5, where 0 is the biggest and 5 the smallest. The most demanded size is 3 - not too big, not too small – and also my personal preference. If you hesitate, take the smaller size.
Next step is to understand the other classification, which basically takes into account the part of meat compared to the weight of the whole oyster. On the menu you will see:
• huîtres fines : flat oysters with a quota between 6,5 and 10,5;
• huîtres spéciales : quota above 10,5 ;
• huîtres fines de claire: the oysters have been in clear water for at least one month with 40 oysters per m2;
• huîtres spéciales de claire : the oysters have been in clear water for 4-5 months with 5-10 oysters per m2
Third step is to choose the origin of your oysters. Different breeding places give different taste. Do you want an oyster from Bretagne, from Arcachon, from Marenne-Oléron….? I would say you have to try different origins to see what pleases you the most, but basically the flat oyster comes from Bretagne ( Brittany)and the southeast of France and they have a saltier taste with more iodine, while the Japanese oyster is the most common elsewhere. From the Arcachon bay in Aquitaine the most reputed ones come from the Arguin sandbank, the breeding place that is the closest to the open sea.
The best time for eating oysters is late autumn until early spring. In summer the oysters get milky due to their reproduction and the taste is not so good. If they suggest oysters called Quatre Saisons, because you can eat them all year, you should know that they are genetically modified and cannot reproduce. Personally I prefer to follow the seasons and eat normal oysters!
I am off in November and into December for a trip to France to ‘chill out” long walks on undeserted beaches and eat as many oysters ( The best time of the year) as I can and since I’ll be in Arcachon Bay and the Bordeaux area, just can’t wait!

Smoked Salmon Eclair with Avocado and Lavender Cream Flling - Enough Said! Says ME!

Ladurée is a luxury cakes and pastries brand based in Paris, France. It is known as the inventor of the double-decker macaron, fifteen thousand of which are sold every day. They are still one of the best known makers of macarons in the world and have marvelous tea rooms on both the Left and Right Bank. For me, forget the macarons ( I know, a heresy in Paris) and have one of the prettiest appetizers I've ever come across - smoked salmon eclair with avocado and lavender cream filling

Paris is definitely the world's best place for cinephiles.

With over 100 movie theaters and roughly 300 films running in any given week throughout the city, from blockbusters to arty revivals, Paris is definitely the world's best place for cinephiles.
Before you sink back into your seat, take note: in Paris, popcorn and other crunchy snacks are often considered a noisy annoyance, interfering with the movie experience. Consider choosing quieter snacks and you'll be set!

La Pagode

La Pagode is one of the city's most sumptuously designed theaters. Located in the heart of the chic 7th arrondissement, close to the Bon Marché department store, La Pagode is housed in a 19th-century building whose style mimics a Chinese pagoda. Inside, a cool green terrace for tea and a black cat named Licorice sprawled over the programs adds to the charm.