What region of France do I love the most?

That's like asking me which of my cats do I love the best, but when pressed, I will admit..the region of Brittany is my all time favorite and the city of Roscoff, is where I rent a  house every year.

A Meal in France that will last a lifetime in my memory and heart...

I’ve had everything from 3 star haut-cuisine Michelin meals to ‘hole in the wall’ country bistros to everything in between. I can honestly say, I have not met a food that I don’t enjoy and hope…….. I never will. 

 But in some reflection in my ‘twilight years” ,when I think about my favorite meals and food in dining in France for over 45 years , I always go back to those simple, hearty French country style meals that fill my soul, heart and stomach. Meals that make me smile, years and year later when I think about dining in France….

 Recently in my sojourn to France, I stayed in one of my favorite areas of France; Brittany. During a drive into the heart of this area, I came upon a small, lovely, typical Breton village (Plougasnou) at noon time and parked in the charming town square and in front of me was a local bistro by the name of Les Chaises. They served the typical hearty French country lunch and I saw something on the menu that I had not seen in any Paris restaurant and a dish that took me back to my childhood. Pork (Porc) with Prunes. 

Like the cynical and harsh restaurant critic, Anton Ego in Disney’s animated film ‘Ratatouille, who was served a simple peasant dish of Ratatouille, which brings back the memories of his mother's cooking and thus softens his whole outlook on life, well I’m not harsh and cynical, but that dish brought me back to my youth and looking back on it, it was one of the greatest meals of all in my dining in France.

Northern Brittany - A new star in 2015 is soon to appear......

For those of you who read my blog, you'll know that I love all of France, but truth be told, Brittany is my favorite of all the areas in this wonderful country. Brittany has so much to offer – stunning natural environments, a fantastic coastline and vibrant traditional French culture. It is quite simply the perfect place to relax and recharge. 
 The area of St Malo/Dinard was made popular by British and American visitors in the 19th century, Dinard was France’s top summer resort until the French Riviera took over in the 1930s. The former fishing village attracted wealthy celebrities and businessmen as well as European royalty, some of whom built fabulous villas; there are now more than 400 listed buildings in the town. In later years it became out of fashion and there were not many good hotels, to be honest, but next year 2015, I think the area is going to have a resurgence with a brand new 5 star WOW hotel called Castlebrac. So check back next year to keep a eye on what will be the new star in this part of Brittany.
http://castelbrac.com/#2

In Brittany - Les Sept-Iles ( 7 Islands) - largest Bird Refuge In France

Those of you who read this blog on a regular basis, known that I love all of France and like having to name your favorite child, is almost impossible, but in this case, as much as I love all the regions of France - when 'put to the wall" I must admit that Brittany is far and away my favorite, for so many reasons.
On the northern coast of Brittany - The Cote de Granit Rose - The coast of the pink rocks ( and YES!, they are pink!), One of my favorite day trips is to take a speed boat or better yet, a Vieux Greements ( old sailing ships) out to sea and venture around the 7 islands (Les Sept-Iles) , just off the coast  near Perros-Guirec. 
Here you find rocky islands filled with a vast multitude of sea birds - Puffins, gannets, shags and small penguins. In most cases, these island are protected, and you many not be able to land, but just sail around them. The trip itself, by boat in sometimes turbulent waters is great fun and OH! the bird life you'll see.

A short film, in French, but you'll get the picture

Be-Breizh is the Breton Word for Brittany

Would you expect a 9 year old  in the USA to eat and enjoy an oyster? Naw, that is why I love France and its people,culture, food, and especially Brittany!


 Truth be told, of all the places within France and I have a love for so many of its regions (it's like asking who is your favorite child?) , if pushed to the wall, I must admit that Brittany is on top of my list, of course always, after Paris!

Bourdain On Brittany

Anthony and a Plateau de Fruits de Mer

I adore the small baby lobsters called Langoustines ( those pink looking shrimp in the photo) served with Mayo..heaven!!

Available also in Paris!

On Monday, the 25th of January, tune into the Travel Channel at 10PM EST to see Anthony Bourdain's show on Brittany, along with host Olivier Roellinger ( famous chef and hotel owner in the region). They highlight and tour some of my favorite places and restaurants in Brittany.

Brittany - The Wild Coast of Southern Finistere

On day 4, I left the area of Brittany known as Morbihan and drove north (about 2 hours) through rolling farmland to the southern Finistere. This part of Brittany is very wild and rugged but also has some beautiful sheltered beaches. My object was to tour for 2 days the western part of this area and visit the Pointe Du Van and Pointe du Raz, which is the regions wildest and most beautiful places.
I used the seafaring town of Douarnenez as my base area and then did day trips from here to the West.

The drive west from Douarnenez to the Pointe du Raz is about 1 hour and 30 minutes. The drive along the d765 ( I am sure you heard me wax poetic about other places in France) but this scenic drive is glorious and now has become one of my most favorite drives in France.

I arrived at the Pointe du Raz in a slight blowing rain ( I am told this is the best time to see the area, because the scenery is more spectacular). This wild and majestic spur of land is shaped by the action of waves that rise to the height of more than 230 ft. The area is now a conservation protectorate with a network of footpaths. The only sounds were the whipping wind, the surf below and the cries of gulls. The clouds, in several shades of white to gray, seemed to move quickly overhead, and a salty, wet mist hits you in the face. In this part of Brittany, like much of its 750 miles of coastline, you can't help but feel you are at the end of the world.

It’s about a mile walk to the lighthouse area with time to peer (ever so carefully) over the side of the cliff to get a better view of the raging surf (feared by local sailors). After my walk I headed south along the coastline, passing a on one side, the look of the remote and desolate moors of Scotland and on the other side, some of the most dramatic sea views anywhere. In fact, I found a place/village that I’d like to live in forever! (But that’s my secret).

Every turn and every corner was spectacular as I drive. I finished at the seafaring town of Audierne. The town is known for its catch of sea bass, sea bream, monkfish and crayfish. Since it was noon, I decided to stop and have lunch. There are several lovely harbor side restaurants and by luck, I stepped into L’Iroise (named after the bay that surrounds this area). What a lucky find…………


……………more to come on my next blog entry.

One of the surprises (there were many on this trip) was 40 minutes outside of La Baule. Inland I found the Parc Naturel Regional de la Grande Briere, which is an area of 99,000 acres made up of reed beds crossed by canals. Since 1970, it has become protected acres and contains a very large population of various birds and over 2000 traditional stone-built, thatched houses (the reeds are used to roof the houses). The best way to explore this area is by boat accompanied by a local guide. You can also explore this area on foot, bicycle or horseback or horse-drawn carriage, but the best is by boat. I can tell you……………………… it’s a magical area!
The real surprise for me; as eating, especially French food, is my life!, was coming upon within this reed/marsch area, a Michelin 1 star restaurant called La Mare aux Oiseaux ( The pond of the birds- restaurant and rooms) overseen by a young, very talented chef named Eric Guerin. Take note of that name, I am sure in the future you’ll hear a lot more about him.
Not only does this charming restaurant have scores of wild birds wandering outside in its backyard, but inside the restaurant, you dine with cages of birds (above you) chirping and singing while you eat. Wonderful! If it were in Los Angeles, the health department would have closed it down right away, but this is France and so Vie La France!
For more details on the restaurant and my dining experience, please click on to my other website..
http://appetiteforexcess.blogspot.com/
On the way back after my 3 hour lunch, I stopped along the coast and visited one of the few remaining WW2 German Blockhouses that were built to repel the allies. It’s privately owned and had been returned as it was in 1943. It’s located just outside La Baule and worth a visit.

The German Blockhaus as it appears today

As it appeared during World War 2 and if you notice, the Germans painted windows on the fortress to fool English and American photo-reconnaissance planes that was just a house.

more to follow.........................

Brittany - first report of my trip - La Baule

Brittany is a sea-buffeted peninsula jutting out from the corner of Northwest France and holds fast to its very distinct personality and culture and language. Mysterious prehistoric alignments, fascinating parish closes and medieval fortresses await your discovery. It has a long jagged coastline which really distinguishes this ‘land of the sea”, however, sunbathe in sandy coves and marvel at pink granite cliffs. Explore modern, dynamic cities and bustling ports – sampling the freshest seafood-then escape to remote, flower-covered islands inhabited only by seabirds.
Brittany is divided into 6 different areas – Loire-Atlantique, Morbihan, Southern Finistere, Northern Finistere, Cotes d’Armor and Ille-et-Vilaine.
During my stay last month I visited each area and this report starts off where I began, in the south of Brittany in the Loire-Atlantique.
I flew into Paris and from the airport caught the French bullet train (TGV) for a fast 3 hour journey (at almost 200 miles per hour) to the historic capital of the Dukes of Brittany, the city of Nantes. From here I rented a car and drove for 1 hour to the famous beach resort area known as La Baule. The resort town is known all throughout Europe for its exceptionally long, sandy beach that stretches for 5 miles. The town is filled with turn of the century (20th that is) villas and grand homes. The seafront itself (unfortunately) is now a series of apartment blocks (with a few luxurious hotels tossed in,) but get behind a block or two in from the beach and here you’ll feel what it was like during the Belle Epoch of France. The grand homes and villas are still there.
The sweep of the beach is glorious and one can see why it has always attracted the French families for their vacations. The French Riviera although beautiful, its beaches are stone pebbles and not sand, like in Brittany. Because of the Jet-stream, Brittany is temperate in climate and you’ll find palm tress growing everywhere, even thought you are close to the stormy English Channel.
From La Baule you can take day trips along the wild and gorgeous coastline to the charming seaside fishing port (very New England style) of Le Croisic.
……………..more to following in my next report

The historic Relais & Chateaux hotel - Castle-Marie-Louise

, located right across from the beach in La Baule.

The Most Extraordinary Stones In The World

During my travels in Brittany last month, on my way back from the Cote Sauvage and the Quiberon Peninsula ( where I visited my favorite vintage sardine factory) I saw a sign that said, Carnac Alignements, . To be honest with you, I am not one that is big on visiting ancient world sites but I know that many people are and so I made the detour to check it out for future clients. I did not expect much.

For those you, who don't know, The stones of Carnac, France, are probably the most famous stones markings outside of those found at Stonehenge in England. There are many, many stones at Carnac. And these stones are very old too, the earliest stones are from around 4,500 B.C. The Carnac region contains many, many Menhir or upright stones. The Menhir stones are sometimes found in a line and sometimes in a circle. They can be anywhere from 0.8 meters high to 6.5 meters high. Rows of these stones can extend for distances of over a kilometer.
Some think these standing stones were signposts, others think they marked burial plots, still others think they were astronomical in nature. Research is going on now to try to find out if these stone markings served as sites for astronomy or whether they were aligned with the Sun or Moon in a special way.

Well! (As Jack Benny use to say!) I was not expecting to be stopped in my tracks when I visited the stones of Carnac. I must admit, they were fantastic and the site was over whelming. I visited one of the three sites and I believe the best one, Menec. There is a visitor center there, to explain the mystery of the stones and right across the street are the magnificent stones themselves that seem to run for miles and miles. I must admit, it was quite humbling!
IMPORTANT NOTE: During the winter (From October to March,) one can access right into the stone area (there are spots to enter through the fenced off area and you are able walk around them) , BUT in the other months, its direct access to the stones is very limited ( they say do to the vegetation during that time, I think because of the million of tourists) ,so that one can view them only behind the fence.

In France - ITS GOOD TO BE KING!

Having just returned from France, more specifically, Brittany, I have once again fallen in love! This time Brittany has captured my heart and soul. One of the objects of my love is the fabulous Chateau de Locguenole, ( A family owned chateau for 500 years) near the village of Kervignac. This historic chateau is set in 120 hectares of woodland overlooking a unique and ever-changing landscape, reflecting the ebb and flow of the tide.

There are only 24 rooms and 4 suites, so you feel like you are staying in a private home and the staff is phenomenal and what really makes this chateau/hotel what it is.

The back door leads out to the ocean, where you can sail, lovely walks through out the area, There is a spa and the 1 star Michelin restaurant; well, it should be 3 star, the food is fabulous and the service is perfection!

The rugged coastline (the real beauty of Brittany) is only 20 minutes away.

For me, just to spend the entire day here, and to be fawned over and taken care of...is why I say...when one stays here you can say..

                                             IT’S GOOD TO BE KING!

My room - a Junior Suite # 8

In Search Of Monsieur Hulot's Holiday

I am back from a  visit to France's north-western coast - Brittany, to be more precise.
Althought I have been traveling to France for decades, my love of France began,;well, I can give you the exact date, on the 16th of June, 1954.
On that day, my mother took me to see a French import movie, a comedy called,( in English) "Mr. Hulots Holiday". Up until that time, I had seen a few movies, The Wizard of Oz and Disney and Martin/Lewis films, but a foreign film, never.
From the opening scene at a Paris rail station with scores of holiday passengers trying to catch a train, I and the audience were 'rolling in the aisles' with laughter. It did not stop until the film ended. I was captivated not only by this sweet film, but by its genius directior/actor Jacques Tati.

Up until this time I had heard such negative things about the French and yet here was a film that made me laugh and take to heart all of the actors on screen. The real joy was M. HULOT (aka Jacques TATI) I carried away that day and still have with me, the characteristic Hulot pose  of him tilting forward, with his head at a quizzical angle, his hat tipped over his eyes, his ubiquitous pipe at a right angle to his long nose, his arms bent behind him with his hands resting on his hips. Like Chaplin’s alter ego, he always wears the same kit – trousers that aren’t quite long enough, his Tyrolean-esque hat and stripy socks. He nearly always has his umbrella handy. He walks with a lolling gait, on well-sprung tiptoes and is undoubtedly a French cousin d’un certain Basil Fawlty.

Tati’s background as a mime meant that he was most at home devising visual gags, rather than writing and delivering one-liners or trading witter banter with another actor. Terry Gilliam, the Monty Python team member who became a director, has said: “One of Tati’s great qualities is that his films contain almost no dialogue. I find this particularly brilliant – these divinely French films that create no problem when it comes to subtitling. In terms of dialogue, Monty Python learnt everything from Tati. We owe everything to him.”

Tati may only have made a handful of films, but they have made a lasting impression on generations of viewers – and it’s not just the popular vote which they’ve earned. His admirers ( besides myself!) have included Orson Welles, David Lynch, and Steven Spielberg

Tati’s brilliance as a comedy actor has influenced at least two generations of English comedians: John Cleese, and Rowan Atkinson, who described seeing M Hulot’s Holiday as “a defining moment in my life” (and paid homage to it in his 2007 film Mr Bean’s Holiday), are just some of the British comics who owe a clear debt to Tati and his very physical comedy style.

The village where the film was shot is still there, St. Marc Sur Mer ( just 20 minutes south of the French beach resort of Le Baule).
They have now erected at statue of M. Hulot at the beach.
Merci beaucoup, to M. TATI for making this child, a lover of France and all thing French! and for making me laugh so hard, again and again to this day.
I owe M. Hulot and M. Tati a lot!

Report On Brittany - A Forward

I spent almost 3 weeks in Brittany and the photo above was taken ( in the last days of my trip) in the northern part of Brittany, in the beautiful seaside town of Perros-Guirdec. This area is famous for its Pink Granite Coastline. The homes here have the feel of a quiant New England village or a village set on the English Cornwall coast. The photo was a view from my room and it was magnificent (day or night) ,even in the throws of a stormy winter day!

But I am getting a ahead of myself. In the following days, I will post a series of travel stories and photos about my stay in the Brittany area of France. It has turned out that this area is now one of my most favorite places to visit in France, and that's saying a lot.

So, as I recover from jet-lag in the next day or two, please check back for a colorful and wonderful journey through - BRITTANY.

I'm Off To France - Brittany, to be Exact.

Even the most worldly-wise traveler must be continually struck dumb by the infinite variety of France.In the U.S., the standardization of goods and services has all but eradicated the once pronounced identity of individual regions, but in rural France long held customs are living, breathing forces, deeply cherished and lovingly nurtured.
The ethnic and linguistic differences from region to region are as startling as the swift and dramatic changes in landscape, architecture and cuisine. In Alsace one sips Gewurztraminer and speaks in a clipped German accent, in Nice the lyrical French is practically Italian in intonation and in remote parts of the Basque country the French language altogether disappears.
So on the 15th of November for about 2 weeks, I am off to the land of myth and legend, a wonderland of seascapes - the tides, the crashing waves, the rocky inlets, wide beaches and coastal cliffs - the area of King Arthur's legends, of an amazing array of fish and shellfish (Oysters and sardines my true love) and of people who are friendly,outgoing and completely without airs. The region of France known as Brittany.