You Are Only as Happy as The Era You Love - Paris of 50 years ago

As you may or may not know, I have been accused of living in the past more than once from friends and family alike and I say to that..I am guilty and proud to say so!
For me, genuine French food, the food of 50 years ago, when there was great French cooking, not the pretentious silly stuff you'll find today, yes even in my beloved Paris -food that will give your cardiologist cause for concern - serious food - you know great sauces - goose foie gras - beef with marrow - duck with peaches - chicken stewed in Beaujolais - Lobster in Port wine sauce.(.I need to stop!) and huge Baba and my list can go on and on.
Was it decadent? - oh yes! Was it delicious? oh yes! and is it what I want? oh YES!
Here and there the past for me is still alive in Paris and one restaurant ( that has been around for 50 years) is Gourmets de Ternes. is still serving the food they did years ago and it is still great. It's local, not fancy, you are there to eat. No Fusion cuisine, no foam, no stark walls (Phillip or anyone else) and chairs and tables.
This is the kind of place you come to Paris to experience.
But then, don't listen to me, I'm just old fashioned and I'll keep those special and old fashion and great food places to myself.

Beaujolais Rediscovered - And I'm Not Talking About Nouveau

Beaujolais is one of the most well-known wines and yet somewhat looked down upon because of the annual frenzy of the 15 minutes of fame of its most famous product - Beaujolais Nouveau, whose quality has always to me and many other wine lovers , has been suspect. 

The Beaujolais countryside ( locate south of Burgundy and north of Lyon) known as La Terre des Pierres Doress, the land of the golden stones - is breathtaking. Not that often visited, because its over shadowed by its famous neighbor of Burgundy, its still worth a trip to these picturesque villages and vineyards, if you have a chance. 
Lunch ( here I go talking about food again ) in one of the many villages have old-fashioned bistros where you can feast on regional specialties like saucisson beaujolais - slow-cooked sausages in red wine. 
What is interesting is today a whole breed of young winemakers are producing exceptional wines and local bistros are highlighting  them. 

Tour The Countryside Outside Paris in a Zeppelin

Airship Paris - the country’s first passenger zeppelin opened this summer. There’s only room for 12 passengers, each person getting their own spacious window seat. One-hour flights over Chantilly and surrounding areas is €376. A 90-minute flight over Versailles and the surrounding countryside is €543.

The downside? It takes off from the Aeroport de Pontoise, a good hour northwest of Paris. 

The Lost Land of Central France - Lozere

Yes, when thinking of France, one tends to think of its 1000 year old culture, heritage, museums, wine and gastronomy and of course shopping, But intense nature? Well,  to be honest, not that often, but located in Central France, an area known as Lozere has a landscape that is breathtaking striking, still pristine, the lowest density of population within France and yet only about 1 or 2 hours from the sea. Slow travel is the key here, a chance to refill your soul from the business and hectic life we all lead these days.
The highlight here is a magnificent Gorges du Tarn ( one of my clients described it as going through Bryce Canyon in the United States). 
Here also you'l find a multitude of wildlife with regional parks hosting wolves, vultures, wild horses and much more. 
Canoeing along the Tarn is a major recreation here and a must for all visitors. 

                                  (The regional Park - Wolves of Gevaudan)

Parc Monceau - The Most Beautiful Park In Paris

Paris has many beautiful parks with this magical city, but to me the best and not oft visited by tourists is the lovely, peaceful and romantic Parc Monceau in the 8th arrondissment. 
It's one of the most beautiful in the city and that's saying a lot.
It's in an upscale residential area and thus you'll see families using it during the day.
There are numerous statues, a large pond with bird life and surrounding the park are sumptuous mansions.

Ploumanach - Brittany - Secret Seaside

For its entire length, the shoreline of Brittany is extravagantly indented, with each successive little inlet concealing another wooded cove or sandy beach. It's at it's most spectacular halfway along the northern coast, in the section known as the Cote de Granit Rose or Pink Granite Coast.

Where granite stone elsewhere in the world looks grim and forbidding, here, weathered into soft dreamlike shapes and glowing with ruddy warmth as the sun goes down, it's positively enchanting.

The best hotel to stay in here, is the L'Agapa in nearby Perros-Guirec. 
http://www.lagapa.com/en
(contact me for special Protravel rates ans amenities)

Burgundy - Dining in the Middle of a Vineyard

In the heart of Burgundy, at the TABLE COMTE SENARD. For those of you who are who are touring the region or thinking to do so, I can recommend, The restaurant, part of the Aloxe-Corton wine estate, is situated about halfway between Beaune and Dijon. It’s managed by two delightful women, the staff is congenial, and the atmosphere is relaxed and casual.

Travelers will love the regional, traditional menu and the superb wines. After getting acquainted with some of the Burgundy vintages at lunch, it’s fun to visit the 13th century cellars. 

The restaurant is only open for lunch from noon until 2 p.m., and closed Sundays and Mondays. The tasting room is open from 10 a.m. to 11:45 and from 2:30 until 6 p.m.

Website (in English): http://www.table-comte-senard.com/en/index.php#/Accueil
For reservations: table@domainesenard.com

Singer Joyce Jonathan - "Pas Besoin de Toi - (I) Don't Need You

Private garden Lunch in Paris - On The Left Bank

Its very hard to get access to private gardens in Paris, but from May to Sept, from Monday to Friday, you can at the Home of the Latin American center ( used by the diplomatic Latin American Community) . Located at 217 Blvd St Germain in the 7e, here is your chance to enjoy a wonderful lunch or dinner in a private garden.

Brittany Art - Parish closes

Brittany’s rural church closes are renowned in France for their charming looks. With their quaint and curious embellishments, they have the power to pull you in, even if you’re not religious. Competition between neighboring parishes could be intense.
The small village of Guimiliau has one of the most spectacular ornamented churchs.

 The Calvary is one of the largest in Brittany and worth a visit.

Provence - Local Wines and a Great Meal - Insiders Tip

In one of my favorite little villages in Provence - Pernes les Fontaines - a town of 39 fountains - just outside the town located within a vineyard is a farm/vineyard and restaurant called Domaine de la Camarette. Their small restaurant has a set-price menu of Euro 32, that includes a feast of fresh farm produce, paired with unlimited glasses of their locally grown wines.

Reservations are a must, as looking at the cars parked and their foreign licence plates, Europe has discovered this quaint spot. 

In Brittany - Les Sept-Iles ( 7 Islands) - largest Bird Refuge In France

Those of you who read this blog on a regular basis, known that I love all of France and like having to name your favorite child, is almost impossible, but in this case, as much as I love all the regions of France - when 'put to the wall" I must admit that Brittany is far and away my favorite, for so many reasons.
On the northern coast of Brittany - The Cote de Granit Rose - The coast of the pink rocks ( and YES!, they are pink!), One of my favorite day trips is to take a speed boat or better yet, a Vieux Greements ( old sailing ships) out to sea and venture around the 7 islands (Les Sept-Iles) , just off the coast  near Perros-Guirec. 
Here you find rocky islands filled with a vast multitude of sea birds - Puffins, gannets, shags and small penguins. In most cases, these island are protected, and you many not be able to land, but just sail around them. The trip itself, by boat in sometimes turbulent waters is great fun and OH! the bird life you'll see.

A short film, in French, but you'll get the picture

Avignon Day River Cruises on the Mireio

The historic city of Avignon is situated on the Rhone river and near the Durance river and one of the best ways to see the city is from the water. Les Croisiers Mireio has several types of river trips from a 1 hour short trip upstream to see the suburbs of Avignon to daily trips south to Arles - accompanied by a lovely lunch.
http://mireio.net/

Lookout Maine - Paris is to Out Do You

All the rage now in Paris is the Gourmet sandwich, done by top of the line chefs and specially take out, food to go places. 

Lobster is one of my all time favorites foods and now in Paris, I can find the traditional Maine Lobster Roll done in the French manner with Breton Lobsters at The Lobster Bar. 
Located in the 1st Arrondissement at 41 rue Coquilliere ( open Tuesday to Saturday from 12 noon to 2:30pm and then 8:00pm to 10:30pm) here is my ideal, a Lovely Paris setting and a fantastic Lobster Roll! Who could ask for anything more?

Marie Antoinette For a Day - Rowing On the Versailles Place Lake

Next time you visit the Palace of Versailles, you might consider seeing the palace grounds by row boat. 
You can rent them by the half-hour  Euro 11/45 min -Euro 13 or 1 hour - Euro 15

There are also electric carts to do self-tours of the immense grounds. 

CV-2 Tours of Paris and Outlaying Areas of Paris - a Fun Way to See the City...

"4 wheels under 1 umbrella" ... it is in these terms that Pierre-Jules Boulanger, director of Citroen in 1935, describes the concept of the 2CV in the specification book. Boulanger is a very tall man; he challenged the engineer André Lefebvre and the "golden fingered man" Flaminio Bertoni to design a small car where he could feel comfortable despite his size, and would be able to wear a hat. The bubble shape is implemented, giving the 2CV its iconic shape of "4 wheels under 1 umbrella."
http://www.4roues-sous-1parapluie.com/EN/p-our_story.html

As Jay Gatsby said: "You Can't Repeat the Past? ...Why of Course You Can!" ...in Monaco

F Scott Fitzgerald's short life was restless. He never set down roots, instead drifting from glittering 1920s New York and France to Switzerland and the American south in the 30s, with many waypoints in between. Hotels were a defining part of his existence, providing not only temporary homes, but also places to gather material and write.For those who dream of inhabiting his glamorous world, Fitzgerald left behind ample documentation of his whereabouts, including his choice of accommodations. Happily, they all continue to welcome guests – and if some room rates are a bit pricey, all have bars, restaurants and even themed events where you can enjoy the ambiance of the author's era for a few hours.

                                    (The lobby of the Hôtel de Paris, Monte Carlo)

Quick getaways around the Riviera provided diversion in mid-1924, when F Scott Fitzgerald was writing The Great Gatsby while living in St Raphaël. One such stop, Monte Carlo's sumptuous, sprawling, belle epoque Hôtel de Paris, reminded the couple of "a palace in a detective story" – a playful remark that suggests how hotels were always potential sources of material. With nightly live jazz, the hotel's Bar Américain is a good spot to make like a character from Tender is the Night. Hotel guests can access the hotel  private beach for an activity that had begun to enjoy a great vogue during the Fitzgeralds' time in the region: sunbathing.

La Rochelle and Ile de Re - A Little Bit Of Food Heaven Before Heaven

La Rochelle,( a little over 3 hours by TGV from Paris)  is a 10th-century fishing village that by the 13th century had evolved into the hub of France’s wine and salt trades, is an unspoilt gem of a town with an attractive dynamic of modern life layered on rich layers of history.

Still guarded by medieval twin towers (which you can visit, traversing the harbor on a “sea bus”), the Vieux Port is one of the most photographed harbors on France’s Atlantic coast. Once a row of fishermen’s huts, the vibrantly painted clapboard buildings now house alluring boutiques and quaint restaurants which overlook small-yacht traffic.

La Rochelle is rewarding to explore on foot; its cafés offer handy pit stops for a refreshing ice cream or citron pressé.

Known for its seafood, I always on arrival, before I head over the bridge to the Ile de Re, have lunch at my hangout seafood restaurant, Restaurant Andre  http://www.barandre.com/

There is also a 2 Star Michelin restaurant – Richard et Christopher Coutanceau right around the corner from Restaurant Andre. 

The old town of vaulted stone arcades and historic public buildings also features a floating Maritime Museum whose centerpieces include a weather ship, trawler and tug boat; several grand 17th- and 18th-century private mansions; the newly restored Natural History Museum; and a Fine Arts Museum.

Charming by day, the town is beautifully lit by night.

From La Rochelle, you cross a toll bridge to the small, flat Ile de Ré, celebrated by artists for the quality of its light and by  French celebrates ( looking for solitude) and families for its vast cycling trails, this is one of my favorite vacation spots in all of France or even a spot to relax for a weekend from Paris.

Over 4000 Champagne Producers in France...Where Do I Begin?

Just one hour from Paris is Champagne; a region unlike any other wine region in France.
To visit, where does one start, a few years ago I spent over a week exploring this area and tasting and barely scratched the surface. 

We all know the famous houses located in Reims and Epernay, but the real treat these days is visiting the smaller Champagne houses who are now opening their doors to the public and either don't charge for a tasting or charge a nominal fee.  These smaller producers are passionate about their product and that comes out in talking to them and their wines will make you marvel and you'll never get to taste those here in the USA. 
So check back in the following weeks as I explore some of the smaller producers. 
Near the famous village of Hautvillers, known as the birthplace of Champagne, you must stop at Au 36, a cool designer bar that doubles as a boutique ans serves food too. Have a tasting along with some regional specialties - . The food and wine tasting is about Euro 15 per person. 

Current Menu

- Foam beet / Trout
and Parmesan crumble
- cake potato ham Reims
- Laminated white pudding / Mushrooms
- paté crust
- lentillons Champagne / Reims ham and ham Ardennes
- chaource
- pink macaroon biscuits and jam Raspberry

www.au36.net

Wildlife Safaris in France

Today in France, More and more wildlife parks are now proposing lodge stays. 

                                     Right now, there are three.

Zoo de la Fleche - between Tours and Le Mans

Le Pal - In central france near Clermont-Ferrand

Planete Sauvage - In Brittany near Nantes

http://www.france24.com/en/20130511-2013-05-11-0646-lifestyle

Click the above to see a French TV channel ( in English) show you the different parks.

Paris Restaurant Find of the Month, Maybe the Year!! - A Meat and Potatoes Winner - L'Atelier Vivanda

If you are not aware of Parisian John Talbott and his food blog, you are really missing something. His tastes and mine seem to be in lock-step and so I am always checking it out for his newest picks.     http://johntalbottsparis.typepad.com/
Last December ( during my monthly trip In France and Paris) Mr. Talbott waxed ecstatically about a small Parisian, out of the way restaurant in the 16E ( only 20 tables) that served only meat and potatoes. Having tired of the pretentiousness cooking these days in Paris , you know foams, small portions, California cuisine, more look  than taste, so I was intrigued by his comments about L'Atelier Vivanda. It was everything he said and  more and within 1 week, I ate there 3 times. 

The menu is prix-fixe at Euro 39 ( something many bistros in Paris are doing these days) and what what a deal.
There are only three starters  six mains ( meat and chicken) and five different kinds of Potatoes  That's it folks, but what an IT it is!
The meat 3 kinds of steak ( cut from a large hanging roast over the stove), lamb, chicken and a hamburger) that's it! It's cooked in an half-semi enclose kitchen on the main floor and its cooked to perfection  no sauces used, just cooked on a flat top with lots of butter. No need to put salt or pepper on it, its was so perfect, I almost fell out of my chair. I had this huge grin on my face the entire time I was eating it. I am sure the waitstaff ( who by the way) wears large leather butchers aprons with large knives attached to them, thought maybe I was strange... To accompany the meat  one must have the Potato Vivanda - cooked in duck fat! Bien sur! The wine list is small, but well priced and very good!
Its not on the Prix-fixe menu, but also order an appetizer of Iberic Ham that is cut from large Ham ( on a machine that looks like the medieval rack) in front of you...so having this first, you know you are in for a serious meal.
The atmosphere is laid back and cozy, and you'l find mostly locals here and reservations are a must, otherwise, you'll never get in, not with only 20 tables. 

Paris Sings - Step back In Time and Enjoy Singer Berthe Sylva

French Countryside Beauty and then the Reality of War

Last December, while staying in the Normandy peninsula of Cotentin, I made a day trip across the lush peninsula from the west coast to the east coast to visit an area that my D-Day paratrooper father fought in; the famous D Day village of Ste-Mere-Eglise. 
During my drive, I passed through a lovely village of Bricquebec and was startled by a large fortress right in the middle of town. It just loomed high above the village square. It was breathtaking, I must say. After a short visit I continued on the Ste-Mere-Eglise. Just outside of Bricquebec I saw what I thought was a partial model plane attached to a high flagpole off to the side of the road. Curious, I stopped and found it was a model of a doomed B-17 bomber that crashed here ( during the D Day invasion) killing all the crew and the locals erected this site to honor them. It was quite emotional to me to be there and then 20 minutes later it got very emotional to see the paratrooper museum in Ste-Mere-Eglise.
The area in the Cotentin is so beautiful and peaceful, it was hard to imagine that a  great battle ever took place here.

The Art Within Nice - Night Tour by Tram

There is no better way to get around Nice than on the modern tram and every Friday night visitors can join a guided tour that combines a trip round the city while a guide explains - in French and English - the 13 monumental sculptures, many bewitching illuminated  that spread all over town. Nice already boasts two of France's top museums, dedicated to Matisse and Chagall, and  this 'open-air' museum of contemporary art features the works of international artists such as Ben Vautier, Jaume Plensa and Yann Kersale.
The tram ticket and guided tour cost Euro 10, make your reservations at the Office of Tourism in Nice.

Tour de France - Dates Where Hotels Will be Impossible to Get Rooms

I want to let you  know that this year the route of the Tour de France visits some of the most popular places in France. You may want to keep this in mind when booking a France stay. Accommodations will be very hard to find (seriously, almost impossible) and driving in these areas during the Tour will be horrific. Here are the dates and places to be aware of: 
July 2: Nice 
July 3: Marseille 
July 4: Aix en Provence 
July 10: Mont St. Michel 
July 11 & 
July 12: The city of Tours in the Loire Valley
The finale is July 21 when the cyclists all arrive in Paris.

It is easy to disdain Monaco...BUT............

It is easy to disdain Monaco. To be honest, I used to do so, dismissing the principality as nothing but a high-rise ghetto for tax avoiders, zillionaire security obsessive’s, a comic-opera royal family and all the glamour that is Roger Moore. But such cynicism is silly. Of course, the place is a packed little bubble of extravagance, luxury and many policemen. But it’s also a show, an engrossing spectacle unique in Europe. Naturally, you must suspend disbelief to appreciate it fully. And that’s the secret to visiting here, so, if you do, you’ll have one terrific time! I spent 3 days this month and must apologize to the local tourist office for my past poo’d poo’d of the place, it was in fact - fantastic and I’ll be returning again and again. I will admit that Monaco takes itself terribly seriously. With so many extraordinarily rich people to look after, it has no choice. In common with other ordinary mortals, I/we can’t be a Monegasque. But we can all have walk-on parts in the never-never-land production. And, at least once in our lives, we should. Although it’s a home to some of the richest people in the world ( you can tell that by the mega yachts, the $100,00 sports cars that seem to be everywhere and the designer shops lining all the boulevards, and has 4 hotels who cater to them), BUT don’t think its out of your price range, because its not. If you enjoy visiting Beverly Hills/Rodeo Drive or New York’s 5th Avenue or London’s Mayfair, then you’ll enjoy Monaco. A day trip; will not suffice to really be honest with you, to enjoy Monaco, you’ll need at least 2 to 3 days to complete your fantasy. To start off your fantasy, you must, are you listening now?, you must take an Air Monaco Helicopter flight from the Nice airport to Monaco; its a 7 minute trip that will wow you and it’s almost the same cost as a taxi from Nice to Monaco! This is the only way to make an entrance here! Monaco SBM hotels (The Société des Bains de Mer) - there are 4 of them, one for every taste and pocketbook, and all are ‘drop-dead’ gorgeous to be honest with you. The Spa is a must and if you don’t partake of it, you’ll miss one of the great luxuries in the world. Monaco is barely two miles long and a little over half a mile wide at its very broadest. (It is 2nd to the title of World’s Smallest Nation only by the Vatican.) It is, therefore, not enormously challenging to walk – as long as you stay by the sea. Even a few yards inland, streets may start going up quite steeply. (You will recall that there are Alps tumbling into the sea here.) In the next series of blogs, I‘ll highlight and give you more in depth information about my new found ‘home away from home’.

Christmas in Paris in 2 Minutes

Christmas - a Return To Sanity in Paris

If you were in Paris last year ( as I was) I was very unhappy with what was done along the Champs Elysees. So, I was very pleased this morning when French TV announced the following:

'The Champs Elysees are to get their traditional Christmas lights back, after a one-year avant-garde experiment was grumpily received by Parisians, the avenue's traders association said on Thursday.
Actress Diane Kruger will turn on the lights on November 21, changed back to "reinforce the Christmassy feel".
Last year the avenue was kitted out with a conceptual light display by design duo Koert Vermeulen and Marcos Vinals, each of its 200 trees hung with three huge colored energy-saving hoops.
But two thirds of passers-by questioned in an IFOP survey at the time said the display -- while innovative -- had moved "too far away from the traditional image of Christmas."
This year's display has been revamped to bring back a more "fairytale quality," explained the traders' group.
In addition to the colored hoops, the trees will be decked out with seven metres (yards) of sparkling garlands, creating giant curtains of light running down the famed avenue.
As was the case last year, the entire set-up will be fueled by a solar farm, part of a drive that has slashed the annual display's energy consumption by 90 percent since 2006.'

Autumn In Burgundy - Is There Anything More Beautiful

Here is a photo from Burgundy taken by the best guide there - Colette BARBIER

My Paris Tradition...Cafe Sitting and Dreaming...

I am off to Paris in a few weeks, and one of the many things I look forward to is cafe sitting. One of my favorite cafes to sit in and watch Paris wake up is at
Café Le Nemours, one of the most famous cafés in Paris. When you round the corner at Rue Richelieu and see it across Place Colette, it’s easy to understand why. As beautiful as it is during the day, there’s something magical about the warm light at night. Add rain, ( I love rain in Paris) and it just about brings you to your knees.